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Roederer

Roederer began life in 1760 as Dubois Père & Fils, a Champagne firm which came into the hands of Louis Roederer in 1833. The company took his name, and under his guidance it developed well. Upon his death he bequeathed the family firm to his son - also called Louis Roederer - and when he died in 1880 the firm passed onto his sister Léonie Olry, and then onto her two sons. They appended the Roederer name to their own, and so by the early 20th Century one brother's widow, Camille Olry-Roederer was in charge. From here it passed down two further generations to her grandson, Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who remained in charge until January 2006. The reins were then handed onto the next generation, as Jean-Claude's son, Frédéric Rouzaud, took on the role of Managing Director. Jean-Claude won't be signing on at the job centre though - he steps up to fill the shoes of the Chairman of the Board of Directors.

A key event in the success of Roederer was breaking the Russian market, as achieved by the elder Louis Roederer. As a result the blue-blooded Russians found themselves partial to the odd glass of Roederer Champagne, so much so that Tsar Alexander II requested that a special cuvée be created; one fitting to grace the table of a royal family. And so Louis Roederer II produced Cristal, regarded by many as the first prestige cuvée. What made this sweet blend so distinctive was the packaging, being bottled in clear crystal rather than ordinary glass. It was a business coup for the Roederer family, although unfortunately one that backfired. The deposition of the Tsar that came with the October Revolution in 1917 meant that the Roederer's lost their market. They had a lot of unpaid bills, and a large stock of sweet Champagne. But the firm survived, and remains in the hands of Roederer's descendants to this day.

The range of wines is largely sourced from Roederer's own vineyards, which provide the majority of the raw materials required. There are very good non-vintage cuvées including Brut Premier, the Extra Dry, Grand Vin Sec and the demi-sec Carte Blanche. These are all Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a roughly 2:1 proportion, plus a dash of Pinot Meunier. The vintage wines include the Brut Vintage, Rosé Vintage and an oft superb Blanc de Blancs. The latter is obviously 100% Chardonnay, the other two are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in an approximately 7:3 proportion. The rosé is made by addition of red wine rather than the saignée method. And, of course, the aforementioned Cristal, which is also available as a rosé. Cristal is usually an approximately equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; the rose contains more Pinot Noir, and again is made by addition of red wine rather than by skin contact. (29/6/04, updated 3/2/07)

Contact details:
Address: 21 boulevard Lundy, BP 66, 51053 Reims
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 40 42 11
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 61 40 35
Internet: www.champagne-roederer.com

Roederer - Tasting Notes

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Roederer Brut Rosé 2005: This is made by the saignée method, the Pinot fruit macerated for between 5 and 7 days before taking off and then blending in 30% Chardonnay. First fermentation is in steel. A very crisp and stony-fruited nose here. On the palate it has a lovely fresh and bright character, tinged with strawberry fruit. Good and broad style, quite primary still. It is somewhat loose-knit at present but there is good acidity behind it and the potential here is good. From the 2010 annual Champagne Tasting. 16.5-17+/20 (March 2010)

Roederer Brut 2003: A smoky, marshmallow nose here, a still a little sulphur too. A full and plump style on the palate, roasted fruits, coffee elements too, still a trace of sulphur at this point too. Will it ever come together and shake off this odorous cloak? It seems very mature already. Whether or not it does, it is a decent effort for the vintage...although I am certainly not rushing out to buy. From the 2010 annual Champagne Tasting. 15.5+/20 (March 2010)

Roederer Brut 2003: Expressive, but very sulphurous; this reeks of mothballs and spent matches, and unusually a note of pine needles. The palate is interesting, surprisingly fresh despite the nose, with lively and plump yellow plum fruit, yellow pepper, mint and herbs. No significant sulphur at this point so I suspect with time this wine will be alright, although it's difficult to predict where it is going stylistically. From the 2009 annual Champagne Tasting. 15.5-16+/20 (March 2009)

Roederer Cristal 2002: This is generally a blend of about 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay, the exact numbers varying with the vintage but Pinot always has the upper hand. A very finely defined nose with ethereal white fruit and floral elements. The palate is very harmonious, broadening out beautifully from a crisp, floral beginning. Very nicely composed, expressive yet firm and upright. I've heard criticism of this vintage but this is showing very well here - but it warrants some cellar time. Really a superb effort which will drink beautifully for years. From the 2010 annual Champagne Tasting. 18.5-19+/20 (March 2010)

Roederer Brut 2000: This has a very smoky character on the nose, with notes of burnt honeycomb which appeal to me, but also a little sulphur still. Light and lifted palate, with a smoky, salty nature. There is a lot of structure, with a nicely persistent presence on the palate and a lingering finish. This should be very good once it has shaken off that sulphur. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2007)

Roederer Brut 1999: This is rather reserved, although despite that it does present a hint of style. Rather mute on the palate as well, with a soft mousse and some subtle background notes of minerality and citrus fruit. Smoky, rather backward and withdrawn. I suspect this will be very good with time, but is difficult to judge at present. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16+/20 (March 2006)

Roederer Brut Rosé 1999: This has a lovely colour, a very pale hue, with more than a note of oeil de perdrix. Refined nose, a little sweet perhaps, with a little twist of caramel. Lovely, structured palate, quite expressive, yet refined, with a lean, mineral quality to the fruit. This will improve with further bottle age, and should be very good indeed. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2006)

Roederer Brut Rosé 1997: This also comprises 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. A nose of strawberry biscuit, and on the palate a full, biscuity, bready, creamy character, with some red berry fruit and also a coffee edge. Firm, acidic and nicely structured. Needs three to six years in the cellar. 16+/20 (May 2004)

Roederer Brut 1996: A fine lemon golden hue, a fine bead too, quite plentiful; in terms of appearance this still looks like a young wine, save perhaps for the finesse of the bubbles. And there is youth on the nose too, kicking off with a pure and fresh apple compote, shifting down a gear with a little time to a more polished, pebbly, white stone-fruit character, although still with a rich, toothsome suggestion alongside. The palate has a little more breadth than the nose suggests, with a dry, baked-toasted nut character at the start, and a taut, chalky minerality running through the middle to a slightly bitter grip at the very end. Clean, fresh, not showing a great deal of development, stylish though, and quite long too. It has a cracking acid backbone, behind which hides the mousse. Despite my thoughts on tasting this five years ago this is holding up very nicely, and has a few years ahead of it yet. From my 1996 Vintage Fifteen Years On tasting. 17.5/20 (December 2011)

Roederer Brut 1996: Lovely pale straw hue, and quite a fine bead. The nose has obvious and immediate appeal, with a welcoming biscuit-bready character, with fresh citrus nuances and lightly toasted nuts on the edge. A very approachable palate, a little more forward and evolved than many of the other wines. It still has a delightful acidic backbone, but it is softer than the preceding wines, and accompanied by a creamy, rounded nature. Nice. fresh cashew nut elements. Lovely, limpid style, and a nice, fading finish. Much more ready than the other wines. For current drinking, although it will be fine in the cellar for five years if not more. From a 1996 Champagne tasting. 18/20 (August 2007)

Roederer Brut 1996: Comprises 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. A lovely rich nose, with a little note of biscuit and bread. Very firm acidity and strong mousse, with rich notes mirroring those on the nose. Firm, full bodied, impressive, typical of the vintage. Needs four to eight years in the cellar. 17+/20 (May 2004)

Roederer Brut 1994: A classic, biscuity style on the nose. Very elegant on the palate, with a fine mousse partnered by a creamy texture. Lots of fruit, with almond notes. Great depth of flavour. 17+/20 (November 2001)

Roederer Brut 1989: A rich, golden hue in the glass, with a strong bead considering the wine's age. Fabulously evocative nose, clearly mature, first showing some toffee and caramel, a trace of baked apple suggestive of oxidation, and then a blast of mushroom too. Lovely fleshy entry, quite rich and very broad, very well integrated mousse, and full and well-rounded mature flavours, mushroom and plenty of toasted nuts. Brilliant wine, sadly the last bottle of my case, and not a single one has disappointed. Very fine stuff indeed. 18.5/20 (February 2010)

Roederer Brut 1989: This wine, now fully mature, has a rich and warm golden-bronze hue. There is a fine bead still, and the wine certainly has plenty of life left in it as far as the fizz is concerned. The first element apparent on the nose though is a trace of oxidation which is undeniable, although fortunately with time in the glass it becomes less problematic, and other aromas take the front seat; mushroom, toffee, Brazil nut and praline. The palate is rich, evolved, creamy and yet in possession of a crisp mousse which gives the wine a lovely definition on the palate. It has a fine precision, although it is open and warm in style. It all culminates in a dry, lingering finish. Overall this is lovely stuff. One bottle left - but if this one is typical the last two were better, and it is time to drink up! From a 1989 vintage twenty years on tasting. 18.5/20 (November 2009)

Roederer Brut 1989: A deep, slightly peachy golden hue and although the bead is incredibly fine there are many individual streams of these tiny bubbles. It already looks inviting, and the nose only heightens the expectation. It has a very mature character, polished in style, with notes of mushroom, coffee, toffee and brazil nuts. It is simply delightful and captivating, bringing all those present back to appreciate the aromas once more, before putting glass to lips. On the palate it has a beautifully textured, elegant and composed nature. There is a finely tuned balance of mousse, elegant and yet slightly creamy weight, and broad, pure, rich, flavours of mushroom, praline and creamy, mouth-coating toffee. The mousse is just so gentle and caressing. And what a fine, long finish. Such a complete wine. It is no surprise to me that my score appears to have crept a little higher over the years, this and the last bottle drank being the only two I have rated at this level. I am now looking forward to my last two bottles with even greater anticipation. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19/20 (October 2007)

Roederer Brut 1989: An attractive golden hue, rich in colour, suggesting maturity, with a very fine bead. The nose is delightfully open and expressive, and it is already quite obvious that this is going to be the best bottle from this case that I have had yet. It is simply gorgeous, with aromas of praline, nut-toasted brioche. Divinely evocative. On the palate it remains beautifully fresh, despite this wines age, with a fine, delicate mousse. Clean, nutty lines with precise definition, aided by a fabulous backbone of acidity. A slightly creamy richness to the finish, and a fine length. Yes, just remarkable, and a touch higher on the score than some previous bottles. A Christmas Wine. 19/20 (December 2006)

Roederer Brut 1989: Another bottle of this wine, of which I purchased a case. A deep, golden colour. A gentle foam in the glass and an almost non-existent bead reflecting its age. Lovely maturity and complexity evident on the nose here, with wonderful notes of coffee, mushrooms and honey-roast cashew nuts. Still so fresh on the palate, with a firm mousse, and good complexity like that on the nose. A complete and quite incisive wine, with a creamy, seductive nature. And just great length. The best bottle from the case so far, without a doubt. Excellent. 18.5/20 (September 2006)

Roederer Brut 1989: A deep, mature, golden colour; a lovely bead, quite fine, which dissipates. A very characterful and expressive nose, of dry toffee and mushrooms; mature and slightly vegetal aromas alongside notes of coffee grounds. Fresh and balanced palate, full, rich and creamy, but with a precise acidity. Lovely presence, quite firm, but with a caressing mousse which seems so much gentler than my last tasting. Fine coffee flavour, with a caramel twist. This second bottle seems largely like the first, except for that softer mousse, so good consistency so far from this case. Excellent. 18/20 (March 2006)

Roederer Brut 1989: A deep and rich golden hue suggesting considerable maturity, with a very sparse, fine bead. This is matched by a very mature, expressive, showy bouquet, showing aromas of toffee, walnut and roasted coffee. Fine palate, with a slightly sharp mousse, and still displaying very correct, fresh acidity. A big, rounded style with nuances of honey caramel, but maintaining a fresh presence on the palate through to the finish. This is very good indeed. Drink now, but will hold for another five years at least. A Christmas Wine. 18/20 (December 2005)

Roederer Cristal 1989: Full, mature, evolved, oily-brioche nose. The palate has finesse, great balance, and a very gentle mousse. Good structure beneath it all though. There's also just a hint of sweetness to it. A fat texture, and great flavour. Impressive length. Ready now. From a Prestige Cuvée Champagne tasting. 18.5/20 (September 2004)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Roederer Brut Premier NV: This is based on the 2005 vintage, with 20% reserve wines and 10 g/l dosage. The blend is two-thirds Pinot Noir and Meunier, one-third Chardonnay. Made from a mix of purchased fruit (which will have undergone malolactic fermentation) and estate-grown fruit (which will be non-malo), with 20% in wood for the first fermentation. The nose has soft and sherbetty fruit with a slightly smoky edge. The palate is fleshy, with a crisp acidity behind it, underneath a foamy, white fruit character. It has the fruity approachability of a wine from a warmer vintage, and at present it still seems very primary and simple at present though - a year or two for it to come together will probably work wonders. From the 2010 annual Champagne tasting. 16+/20 (March 2010)

Roederer Brut Premier NV: Current release. Little showing on the nose here, other than some sulphur. But the palate has plenty to offer, as it has a rather seductive style, with a persistent and gently foaming mousse over a creamy midpalate. Flavours of white fruits. This is elegant, well composed and persistent. Very good potential. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (March 2008)

Roederer Brut Premier NV: Current release. Some sulphur still lingering here, but it is subtle and probably of no consequence. The wine itself, however, is rather reserved, reticent even. The palate is very precisely defined, very sharp, with deep character and flavour though. Firm and structured, with a slightly brutal composition although it is so young. It needs time in bottle to soften up. Nice vinosity to it which suggest it will be really, really good. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2007)

Roederer Rich NV: Current release. This has a rather subtle nose, yielding just a little whiff of hazelnut, which is a lot more than some of the other wines here have given. Full, rounded, with little nuances of flavour, but not exactly oozing quality or impact. Decent, correctly structured underneath it all, but rather soft and unfocused at present. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14.5/20 (March 2006)

Roederer Brut Premier NV: Current release, based on the 1999 vintage, with 20% reserve wines. A very fresh nose here, and a lovely, clean, freshly acidic impression on the palate. It has a firm composition, with a strong mousse. Like many non-vintage Champagnes of good quality this needs a year or two in the cellar. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

Roederer Brut Premier NV: From a magnum, purchased Summer 2003. Quite a rich golden-yellow and a moderate-sized bead. An expressive nose, full of white fruits with a nutty edge. Ripe, mouth-filling and creamy edge, Correct acidity and firm mousse. 16.5+/20 (October 2003)

Roederer Brut Premier NV: The NV cuvée on the market at the time of tasting. A lemon golden wine, with clean fruit and quite subtle nutty nuances. Fresh and clean on the palate, with good, slightly nutty fruit. There's a creamy edge to the texture, good acidity and a soft, elegant mousse. 16.5+/20 (November 2001)