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Jacquesson

Jacquesson was founded in 1798 by Memmie Jacquesson and today stakes a claim as the oldest independent Champagne house. Early vintages were very successful and the house quickly established a good reputation, and the wines are said to have found favour even with Napoleon. Like any good general Napoleon never campaigned with a case or two of good Champagne!

Jacquesson Champagne Memmie died in 1835 and was succeeded by his son, Adolphe Jacquesson. Adolphe was a a driving force not only for the family business but for the Champagne region as a whole. He pioneered important changes in both the vineyard and winery, including the planting of vines in rows as laid out by Dr Jules Guyot, and with the help of Jean-Baptiste François, the accurate measurement of sugar concentration before the secondary fermentation. This latter innovation made a significant reduction in the number of bottle lost due to excessive dosage and frenetic fermentation in the bottle, and is known as the Reduction François. In addition, Adolphe Jacquesson was partly responsible for the development of the muselet, the wire cage that holds the cork in place on bottles of Champagne and sparkling wine the world over. Rather sadly considering the impact Adolphe had on Champagne, his descendents had little interest in continuing the family business. The business changed hands several times during the decades that followed, until in 1974 it was purchased by the Chiquet family. Jacquesson is now run by brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet, who oversee the vineyards and day-to-day running of the winery; in addition there is a third partner, Michael Mackenzie, who is based in London.

The Jacquesson vineyards are in the Grand Cru villages of Aÿ, Avize and Oiry and in the Premier Cru villages of Hautvillers, Dizy and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. These sites account for the majority of the fruit used by the house, but about 15% is sourced from other growers located in these villages as well as the Grand Cru village of Choilly and the Premier Cru village of Cumières. The vines are pruned hard to less than ten shoots to reduce yields and they may be further debudded in May, followed by a July green harvest if required. They are trained to either the Cordon de Royat or Chablis systems to maximise bunch exposure, thereby minimising rot and vineyard treatments that would then ensue. Between the vine rows the land is planted to grass and may be ploughed to reduce surface root formation and to encourage the vines to dig deep. The harvested grapes see a vertical press prior to fermentation in either oak casks or stainless steel. Some of the wines are fermented in small demi-muids of about 6 hl capacity which allows fermentation of small aliquots of wine representing small vineyard sites. Those wines fermented in oak also see malolactic and some batonnage. The wines are not filtered prior to bottling.

The wines include a new non-vintage cuvée, which replaces the Perfection Brut, starting with Cuvée No 728. Since the foundation of the house in 1798 its cellar records show that each wine which passed through the cellars has been given an individual number, starting with No 1. This system is still in use, and the latest NV blend is designated 728. This is a blend of approximately one third each Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. This first release was based on the 2000 vintage, the aim being to produce the finest wine possible, taking account of vintage conditions, rather than aiming for consistency across the vintages. Based on the 2001 vintage, Cuvée No 729 will follow. In addition there is a Brut Rosé NV Champagne, an Avize Grand Cru wine made from Avize fruit, and the Grand Vin Signature. In truth all would qualify for the designation Extra Brut - the house style here is very dry, but also one of very high quality and complexity, testament to the excellent sources of fruit and careful handling in the cellar practised at Jacquesson. (2/9/04)

Contact details:
Address: rue du Colonel Fabien, 51530 Dizy
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 55 68 11
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 51 06 25
Internet: www.champagnejacquesson.com

Jacquesson - Tasting Notes

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1996

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1996: Honey and nuts, brioche, a rich, maturing style. A very fine nose in fact. Tasty palate, stylish and balanced, a slightly foamy mousse admittedly, but this should settle down with a little more time in the cellar. Good vinosity, gentle acidity, very nicely composed. Approachable now but would benefit from another year or two I think. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 17.5+/20 (March 2007)

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1996: A lovely nose here, quite perfumed, with subtle, honey-nut-caramel fruit. This is very stylish. The palate clearly shows great potential, first greeting me with a wall of acidity, but behind this there are early nuanced of complexity, of honeycomb richness. Good length on the finish, too. This just needs time to settle and integrate. Should be left in the cellar for four years minimum, but should drink well for long after that. From the 2006 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 17+/20 (March 2006)

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1996: From a single Avize vineyard. Pale gold. Roasted cashew nut nose, this is impressive. Very expressive palate, with piles of honeyed fruit with a mineral seam. Rich and balanced, with great acidity. Elegant finish, and superb length. Great potential here. Needs 3-5 years as a minimum. Certainly has the edge on the 1995 tasted last year; 1996 is a fine vintage. 17+/20 (May 2005)

1995

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1995: A single vineyard wine. Pale. Obvious Grand Cru quality on the nose here, which is pure and aromatic, with nut oil notes. Elegant entry. Power and flavour come through on the midpalate. The creaminess picks up on the finish. Slightly foamy mousse at present. Clean, nettly, with nutty finish. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Jacquesson Grand Vin Signature 1995: Fruit sourced from Avize and Chouilly. Pinot noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%). A repeat tasting of this cuvée, with a year more in bottle now. Wonderful nose, showing delightful honey-caramel influence, the effect of a little more age on the Chardonnay component I think. Contrastingly, the palate shows a more meaty, Pinot influenced character, with a refined and elegant style. Good development here; should continue to improve over 3-4 years and drink well thereafter. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Jacquesson Grand Vin Signature 1995: Fruit sourced from Avize and Chouilly. Pinot noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%). Pale. restrained elegance on the nose, which is firm with coffee aromas and biscuit nuances. Strong mousse. Firm and structured. Beautifully put together wine, but needs time, preferably between five and ten years in the cellar. Very good. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Non-Vintage

I applaud Jacquesson's numbering of their non-vintage cuvée, a practice which started with Number 728. I have ordered the notes on this wine according to the numbering of the cuvée, most recent first.

Jacquesson Cuvée 732 NV: Soft apple fruit on the nose here, a touch of marshmallow sweetness and rather overt banana aromas. On the palate a very strong banana toffee flavour and a rather rounded, confected feel to it. A good structure, but overall this has a rather awkward style at present. It will need to integrate and develop, for now would approach with much caution! From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 16-17+/20 (March 2008)

Jacquesson Cuvée 731 NV: This is fabulously appealing compared to some of the other wines; on the nose there is a little toffee character from recent malolactic I think, but underneath this a mineral seam at the core which holds real promise. A gently honeyed texture, lots of sweet toffee, gentle acids and overall a rich style, cut through by a lemony finish. This will be impressive with time I think. Very good potential. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 17+/20 (March 2008)

Jacquesson Cuvée 730 NV: Appealing, smoky-oily with honey and beeswax character. This is wonderful, with great appeal. Full, creamy, mature style, really attractive depth and complexity. Lovely vinosity, this is very serious and stylish. Emerging complexity and great elegance. An impressive wine which comes out very near the top of the pack as far as non-vintage wines are concerned. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16.5+/20 (March 2007)

Jacquesson Cuvée 729 NV: Based on the 2001, approximately one third each C, PN, PM. Great style on the nose. Expressive, cashew nuts, biscuity. Very fine palate, gentle and caressing, with a softly refined mousse. Full, nutty-creamy presence, with nicely balanced acidity. This is a very fine non-vintage cuvée indeed, for current drinking. 16.5/20 (May 2005)

Jacquesson Cuvée 728 NV: Pale. Based on the 2000, with 32% reserve wines. Most fruit from Grand Cru vineyards. A fresh, bready nose with cashew nut nuances. Still a trace of oak here I think. Very bright palate, firm mousse, similar acidity. A touch of creaminess and a clean, nutty finish. Needs a year or two in the cellar to show its best but very good now. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

Jacquesson Brut Rosé NV: Current release. A blend of base wine with 8% Pinot noir. Good, pale, salmon-pink colour. Red fruits with a leafy greenness on the nose and through onto the palate. Short finish. Would benefit from a year or two to soften those hard edges though. Good. 15+/20 (May 2004)