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Gatinois

The tiny Champagne house of Gatinois is located in Aÿ, a small but, in Champagne circles at least, a very significant village at the foot of the Montagne de Reims, one of Champagne's four main vineyard regions. The vineyards of Aÿ lie on a south-facing slope, running up the mountain behind the village. This particular region is planted mainly with Pinot Noir, and the village of Aÿ is no exception; this shows through in the wines of Gatinois, as well as other leading houses located here, such as Bollinger.

Currently in charge here is Pierre Cheval-Gatinois, who may trace his viticultural roots back at least eleven generations to Nicolas le Cacheur, a vigneron who worked in Aÿ as far back as 1696. The vineyards that crawl up the mountainside behind Aÿ are all classified as Grand Cru, and from his 7.2 ha Cheval-Gatinois brings in a selection of highly desirable grapes at harvest time. Some he still sells to Bollinger, as has been the case for years, but increasingly he is making and bottling a range of his own wines, under the Gatinois label. All are Grand Cru, and all are dominated by Pinot Noir, typically accounting for 90-100% of the blend in all of the wines. There are four non-vintage cuvées, the Tradition Brut and Réserve Brut (both 90% PN, 10% C), the Rosé Brut (100% PN, addition of red wine rather than saignée) and the Tradition Demi-Sec (90% PN). There is also a vintaged Millésime Brut (100% PN).

Altogether there are just 2500 cases of wine produced each year, so availability can be very limited. The quality of the Tradition Brut seems fair enough, enjoyable although rustic, perhaps a little coarse if being critical. The Rosé, in this incarnation of this non-vintage cuvée, was very good. (1/8/06)

Contact details:
Address: 7 rue Marcel Mailly, 51160 Aÿ
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 55 14 26
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 52 75 99

Gatinois - Tasting Notes

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Gatinois Tradition Brut Grand Cru NV: The entry level cuvée, a blend of 90% Pinot Noir to just 10% Chardonnay, typically 6 g/l dosage. A very appealing colour, a pale onion skin hue and a quite fine bead too. Rather autolytic on the nose, also showing some good, meaty character in keeping with the dominance of Pinot in the mix. Fresh entry, opening out on the midpalate to present a creamy, enveloping style, with biscuity-yeasty tones. Overall rather straightforward, without overt complexity or great finesse, but it has an appealing, natural rusticity. For uncomplicated current drinking, I like it. 16.5/20 (August 2006)

Gatinois Brut Grand Cru Rosé NV: A 100% Pinot Noir cuvée, with addition of red wine rather than saignée. A lovely, pink-tinged onion skin appearance, with a fine bead. Quite biscuity on the nose, with apples, strawberries and blackcurrant leaf, and a little note of cheesecake. Fresh, crisp and lively style on the palate, with a fine, pervasive mousse. Nice, appealing creaminess through the midpalate to the finish, carrying flavours of strawberry and raspberry, with a little metallic-mineral note. Delightfully balanced wine, with a fresh impact on the palate. Just a slightly too short on the finish to be considered truly fine. Very good indeed. 17/20 (August 2006)