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Egly-Ouriet

The Champagne house of Egly-Ouriet is home to Francis Egly, a conscientious and skilled vigneron, who runs the estate with his father Michel, who inherited the vineyards from his own father, Charles. The domaine comprises about eight hectares of vines, all of which are located in vineyards classified as Grand Cru, mostly in Ambonnay (where Michel and Francis own 7.2 hectares), but also in Bouzy (a very small parcel of vines) and Verzenay (another 1.2 hectares), these all being villages with reputations for Pinot Noir. The vines have a good age, mostly between 30 and 50 years with an average of 35 years all told, and they are mostly Pinot Noir, this variety accounting for 75% of the vineyard, the remaining 25% mostly Chardonnay. These figures do not, however, take into account one of Egly's most recent acquisitions, a remarkable plot of old vine Pinot Meunier at Vrigny. Although not classified as Grand Cru, these are perhaps the most notable vines at this domaine, as they are vinified and bottled as a distinct cuvée, something quite unusual for the region.

Egly-Ouriet The vineyards are managed along environmentally sound lines, with advice from soil specialist Claude Bourgignon; the Egly family have always refused the use of gadoux, the supposed fertilisation of the soil using Paris city rubbish, and in recent years there has also been a reduction in the use of chemical fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides. There is ploughing and use of manure where appropriate, and yields are controlled with an aggressive green harvest during the summer, reducing the harvest to perhaps half of what is typical for the region. As a result, fruit is brought in with a potential alcohol between 12.5% and 13.5%, impressive figures for the Champagne vineyards. In the cellar, the wines are fermented in oak, another distinctive practice that should move the estate closer to the premier league of Champagne producers in our minds. They are never fined or filtered before bottling for the second fermentation, and use of sulphur is kept as low as possible. The wines will typically spend between three and four years on their lees, but sometimes much longer - seven years in the case of the 1996 vintage. Following disgorgement the impact of the dosage, the wine that is added to top up, is kept to a minimum, and each wine carries information on length of ageing and also date of disgorgement on the back label.

All the wines, except for the Vrigny Pinot Meunier cuvée, are Grand Cru. The range opens with the non-vintage Brut Tradition, which is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay has a low dosage of 5-6 g/l, and which will spend over three years on its lees. The non-vintage Blanc de Noirs Vieille Vignes was my introduction to the domaine, and displays plenty of Pinot Noir character. It is generally bottled with no dosage at all. There follows a Rosé, and a vintage wine which can be superb. Finally, as far as the sparkling wines are concerned, comes Les Vignes de Vrigny, a fascinating Pinot Meunier bottling. Having sampled it, I can vouch for its interest factor, if not the absolute quality. In addition, there is also a still 100% Pinot Noir Coteaux Champenois produced which I have not tasted. My experience is limited, but what I have tasted from this domaine has certainly been interesting, and although I found points to criticise in Les Vignes de Vrigny on my tasting of it, the wines are good and worth seeking out. (23/11/07)

Contact details:
Address: 51150 Ambonnay
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 57 00 70
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 57 06 52

Egly-Ouriet - Tasting Notes

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Non-Vintage

Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny NV: Purchased Summer 2007. This is a 100% Pinot Meunier cuvée. A moderately rich golden hue, with a huge bead - there are bubbles just everywhere. The nose is very aromatic, floral and yet rather meaty, with a biscuity, caramel character at first, and then plenty of candied fruits. The palate starts off fresh, with a full and lively mousse as might be expected from the wine's appearance, and it is full of characterful flavour. It is nicely rounded, soft, fairly well composed, but to be critical the definition isn't really there; there is good flavour, but without the framework of acidity or structure behind it. But it is certainly interesting to drink, but I think the reason Pinot Meunier is employed most commonly as a blending grape - not in the grander cuvées - is evident here. 15.5/20 (November 2007)

Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV: Purchased Summer 2007. This has a lovely rich colour, a deep straw gold. There is a rather fat mousse, very plentiful, with a myriad of streams of bubbles raising up to the surface of the wine. The nose is initially yeasty, before turning rather meaty and dense, suggesting Pinot Noir. There is a slightly cheesy streak, and then a more nutty, biscuity edge. Unlike Les Vignes de Vrigny here the palate is very well defined, a rather youthful and excited mousse at present making for a slightly coarse mouthfeel, but give it a year or two in bottle and this will settle. There is very fresh and admirable acidity, it is packed with flavours mirroring the nose, and is quite complete and harmonious after a little while in the glass during which the mousse settles somewhat. Really very good indeed, a dense and masculine in style which I would like to drink again. 17.5/20 (November 2007)

Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Vieille Vignes NV: A tasting of the NV cuvée on the market at the time, I believe. A producer I have ear-marked for my forthcoming Champagne feature. A little cheesy on the nose, denoting Pinot here. Apples too, as pointed out by Toby. Good, altogether palate. From a tasting in Edinburgh. 16.5/20 (April 2005)