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Inniskillen

It is seldom that truly new, truly significant developments in the way wine is made come along. Looking back to the first time grapes were dried, or deliberately harvested late, sweetened by mutage, or selected for the effects of botrytis takes us back centuries if not, in some cases, millennia. Ice wine, a rather obvious translation of the German eiswein, is one obvious exception. Those that have fallen foul of the marketing spiel might tell you this is an ancient practice, but the truth is this unusual technique developed in Germany, probably in the 20th Century, and is an even more recent arrival in Canada.

The climate here is wholly suited to the production of icewine, which demands winter temperatures below -8ºC, preferably lower, to ensure that the grapes remain frozen when transported from vineyard to winery. Canada, in particular Ontario, has no problems here. When I first visited the region in 1991 it was a balmy summer, during which I was regularly woken by night-time thunderstorms, but it was clear that things were very different in wintertime; my host drove a Jeep Cherokee, and the snow chains hanging in the garage told me something of how the weather would turn later in the year. Right then, however, I had a fine summertime around the picturesque town of Niagara on the Lake, which is home to a small waterfall immortalised by Christopher Reeve in Superman II, as well as some of Canada's top wineries, including Inniskillen.

Inniskillen was established in 1975, founded by Donald Ziraldo and Austrian Karl Keiser; the latter is still heavily involved today, filling the role of winemaker. Their vines lie between the Niagara Escarpment, cliffs that run for miles and miles across Ontario and over which that waterfall flows, and Lake Ontario, which forms the boundary between this little part of Canada and New York State. They set up at the Brae Burn estate, which was constructed in the 1920s, to produce table wines, and indeed this is still part of their plan. But Inniskillen, and indeed Canada as a whole, has become synonymous with not table wines, but icewine. The grapes, led by Vidal, but not excluding other varieties such as Riesling and even Cabernet Franc, are harvested in the dark, freezing winter and put to good use, producing a unique nectar rich in flavour, sweetness and acidity. This is icewine at its greatest. It is difficult, however, to describe this intense blend of sweetness, flavour and acidity in simple words; I can only suggest that you try them. I must confess that I am more used to tasting, rather than drinking, these North American nectars, but as availability has improved over the last few years, this will hopefully change. (6/4/06)

Contact details:
Address: S.R. #66, RR#1, Niagara Parkway, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada
Telephone: +1 905 468 2187
Fax: +1 905 468 5355
Internet: www.inniskillin.com

Inniskillen - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2005. Click to locate stockists:

Inniskillen Oak Aged Vidal Ice Wine 2003: A gloriously perfumed style here, the nose filled to the brim with peaches and stone fruits. with a wonderful mineral character. Full palate, very firm acidity, and packed with sweet flavour. Rich and delightful presence on the palate, great impact, and an admirable persistence. Excellent. 18+/20

Inniskillen Riesling Ice Wine 2002: Another gorgeously seductive nose, again with ripe stone fruit character, in a very aromatic, perfumed style. Succulent, precise, richly engaging presence on the palate. Well balanced, very upright acidity, but with a lovely depth of fruit draped over the firm structure. Great persistence again. Excellent. 18+/20

Inniskillen Sparkling Ice Wine 2003: Another immediately appealing nose. Rich, sweetly hedonistic palate, with a gentle mousse. Simply massive acidity here, dominating the palate, and with the bubbles and all it just seems a bit much for me. Perhaps a couple of years of bottle age would tame it a little. Very good style, though. 17/20