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Domaine des Perdrix

Domaine des Perdrix is a small estate comprising just over 30 hectares of vines spread over a number of appellations in the Côte de Nuits, the most prestigious being a large parcel of Grand Cru Echezeaux as well as one of Burgundy's monopoles (vineyards under sole ownership), Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix. The latter is the source for this month's Fine Wine Focus.

Domaine des Perdrix is run by Bertrand and Christine Devillard. Christine is the daughter of the Marquis de Jouennes, owner of the Château de Chamirey in Mercurey, and figurehead for Burgundian négociant-éleveur Antonin Rodet. The business was named after the Marquis' father-in-law, Antonin Rodet, although it had in fact been created much earlier by Antoine, Antonin's father. The Marquis de Jouennes and Bertrand Devillard have, in recent years, strived to improve quality at Antonin Rodet, and this process has involved the purchase of a large quantity of vineyards across the Côte de Nuits.

With the purchase of Domaine des Perdrix, Bertrand and Christine were placed in control, although in fact the domaine is merely part of the Antonin Rodet empire, which also includes Château de Chamirey, Château de Mercey, Château de Rully and Domaines Jacques Prieur. Many of these offer good value, as they produce wines under various Côte Chalonnaise appellations. The négociant-éleveur side of the business results in a good selection of wines from appellations throughout the Côte d'Or, and also excellent value from the Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Pinot Noir wines. It's clear, however, that the feather in the cap is Domaine des Perdrix. (18/4/01)

Contact details:
Address: Domaines Antonin Rodet, 71640 Mercurey
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 85 98 12 12
Fax: +33 (0) 3 85 45 25 49
Internet: www.rodet.com

Domaine des Perdrix - Tasting Notes

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1998

Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1998: A rich colour, vibrant garnet red with good intensity of hue. Very ripe on the nose, with primary aromas of dark summer berries, predominantly blackcurrants, with some cocoa-rich chocolate and mushroom notes. Quite full on the palate, with a firm, muscular texture, strong acidity and some good tannins. There's lovely, fresh, acidic fruit as well. Overall fairly simple at present, but structured, well balanced and displaying plenty of promise. I have previous vintages of this wine cellared, including the superb 1996. 16.5+/20 (September 2002) Label

1997

Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1997: A moderate cherry red hue. The nose has obvious black cherry fruit, with soft doughy and pastry notes. There is some new oak, but little in the way of secondary development. On the palate, good acidity keeps it fresh, despite a fairly rich texture with lots of fruit. Fat, chalky and very drying tannins are quite well integrated. Easy drinking, but with a less impressive structure than the 1996. 15+/20 (April 2001)

1996

Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1996: I remember extolling the virtues of this wine back in 2000, following which a well-known loudmouth on a US forum derided it as 'restaurant Burgundy', whatever that means. Six years on it still maintains a deep, rich colour. All the primary fruit has gone, leaving more earthy aromas of leather, gamey mushrooms, sandalwood and ripe, meaty spice. It has a full, ripe rounded mouthfeel, with a seam of slightly chalky tannin running through it. Still exhibiting a fine weight and texture, good concentration and extract, it holds my interest, but doubtless will be better for another five or six years in the cellar. From a 1996 vintage ten years on tasting. 17+/20 (December 2006)

Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1996: This wine has a deep, rich, red-purple hue, and is quite opaque for a Pinot Noir. The nose is simply lovely. Initially blackberry fruit, but then more typical, yet quite intense, redcurrant and strawberry notes. Animal fur, horsehair and farmyard notes give this nose an interesting complexity. There was also some slightly toasty, vanillin oak, and freshly ground coffee aromas, but these were very much background features. The palate has a superb, silky texture and beautifully integrated tannins. Good acidity and attractive red fruits lead into an elegant, slowly fading finish. A truly excellent Burgundy. 17.5+/20 (August 2000) Label