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Chateau Rieussec
The history of this illustrious Sauternes estate, which is located in the commune of Fargues very close indeed to appellation leader Yquem, stretches back many centuries, to when the estate was in the ownership of Carmelite monks (the order in question also owned, and gave their name to, Carmes Haut-Brion). The origin of the name Rieussec remains uncertain, although writing in Grands Vins, Clive Coates asserts that the name may be a contraction of Ruisseau, the name of a stream which runs between Rieussec and Yquem, and sec, the latter part applied because the stream is known to frequently dry up during the summer months. It is an attractive proposition, and it does indeed seem likely that the origins of Ruisseau and Rieussec are at least related.
With
the Revolution in the late 18th Century, the estate was sequestered as a
national asset, and subsequently purchased by a gentleman named Mareilhac, who
already owned La Louvière. The estate was subsequently sold to a Monsieur Maille
in 1846, at which point a small plot was cleaved off and sold to Eloi Lacoste,
proprietor of Chateau Pexiotto, which although classified as a deuxième cru
in the
1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac (when Rieussec was ranked at the
premier cru level) has since disappeared, having been subsumed into
Chateau Rabaud. At the time of this latter event, however, the Rieussec portion
returned to its original owners, so overall there was no great loss of vineyard. Following Maille, the estate passed to Charles
Crépin, who then bequeathed the property to his son-in-law Paul Defolie in 1892.
Although Defolie at least made some investment in the property, his tenure was
unfortunately short. Rieussec then passed through a number of owners and, as is
always the case in this sort of situation, it suffered from under-investment,
and began to fall into dilapidation. It was acquired by Edgar and Marc Bannel in
1907, then Madame Lasseverie and her son-in-law Henri Gasqueton, then the
Vicomte du Bouzet and a relative, an American named Berry, who sold all to
Gérard Balaresque in 1957. None made any significant impact on the estate, which
had suffered the effects of phylloxera and oidium, and during the early 20th
Century war and economic depression, augmented by a downturn in the demand for
richly sweet white wine such as Sauternes. It should come as no surprise to learn
that when supermarket magnate Albert Vuillier came to Bordeaux to purchase a
property in Sauternes, there were a considerable number of illustrious names up
for sale. Vuillier was in fact spoilt for choice, the options including
Climens among others, but he chose Rieussec,
not least because the buildings were at least habitable. At first he was an absentee
landlord, selling the wine through Mestrezat, but when this arrangement came to
an end in 1974 Vuillier moved into the chateau and took charge. He wanted to
invest heavily, with replanting some of the rundown vineyards high on his
agenda, but soon found that such investment was simply not feasible. A string of
unsuccessful vintages, coupled with low demand for the the wines, meant that Vuillier needed help. It came, in 1984, in the shape of the Rothschilds.
The Rothschilds in question are those of Lafite-Rothschild. They were at this time already running Duhart-Milon, and investment in Rieussec must have seemed a wise move, as they were soon the majority shareholder in the Société Anonyme de Chateau Rieussec, alongside two other investors from the financial sector. Initially Alain Vuillier stayed on, but in 1985 he was replaced as manager of the estate by Charles Chevalier, who now also runs the show at Lafit. Under the aegis of the Rothschild family, there has been continued investment and revitalisation at Rieussec, and I think it is fair to say that the estate is now comfortably among the top producers of Sauternes, and many would place it second only to Yquem.
The
vineyards, which occupy one of the highest points in Sauternes after those of
Yquem which are adjacent, to the east, cover 90 hectares of the 130 hectare
estate, and the terroir underfoot is typical gravel interspersed with
lime. The vines, which average 25 years of age, are predominantly Semillon (90%)
with 7% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Muscadelle. Yields were always high for Sauternes
at 22 hl/ha but there was always strict selection in the chai, whereas
nowadays more selection takes place in the vineyard, so reported yields are
lower with 15 hl/ha being typical. Once the wine reaches the winery, which was
fully rebuilt in 1989, the Rothschild investment really comes into play. The
installation of pneumatic presses helps careful handling of the fruit. The
vinification is in barrel, with a small-batch approach so that each aliquot can
be individually managed and subsequently assessed. There is a strict selection,
with only the best wines going into the grand vin, Chateau Rieussec,
which then sees up to 26 months in oak barrels, of which approximately half are
renewed each year, as has been the case since 1983. If the quality isn't up to
scratch, as was the case in 1993 for instance, no grand vin is produced.
The wine sees a light filtering and cold stabilisation. Rejected wine goes into
the second label Carmes de Rieussec, named for the Carmes de Langon monks that
once owned the estate. There are also bottlings under the Clos Labère and
Chateau de Cosse labels, as well as a dry white, made from non-botrytised
grapes, comprising equal proportions of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, called
R de Rieussec. Altogether the estate produces approximately 10000 cases of
wine, depending on the vintage.
In short Rieussec is today an excellent source of Sauternes, largely down to the investment doggedly put into place by the Rothschild family, with the efforts of Chevalier on the shop floor. Although we should not forget Vuillier, who was simply a man before his time. Ten years later, with a changing attitude to Sauternes and a string of successful vintages through the 1980s, including 1986, 1988, 1989 and then 1990, his tenure would have been much more widely lauded. As it is, it is the Rothschilds that have been in the right place at the right time. The style of wine they and Chevalier produce tends to be one of concentration with elegance, whereas older vintages, under Vuillier, tended towards a more voluptous and fat nature, although they were still of relatively high quality. It is a matter of taste which ones you prefer, but with another string of successful vintages in recent years, including 1997, 1999, 2001 and 2003, I know which era I favour. Even lesser years, such as 1998, are good at Rieussec, as the following notes demonstrate. (28/7/04, updated 19/4/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Rieussec, 33210 Fargues de Langon
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 53 89 78 00
Fax +33 (0) 5 53 89 78 01
Internet: www.lafite.com
Chateau Rieussec - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 2007: A
stylish, rather reserved character, with honey and floral aromas. Fleshy and
broad, but quite reserved, with good acids. Less opulent and flattering than
some of the other wines, with lots of structure. Very sweet, with a
pastille-like fruit. Good botrytis in the midpalate though, and through to the
finish. This is very good. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 2003: From a half bottle. This vintage
has a vibrant, yellow-golden hue which has some promise. It certainly has plenty
of youthful character on the nose, which has a floral edge to the honey and
pepper-spiced fruit. Deliciously fresh and creamy on the palate, rich, deeply
concentrated, with a forceful structure beneath it all. Hugely characterful
flavour too. Lots of creamy-oily botrytis in evidence too. Quite grippy.
Slightly low acidity, but this still has an adequate structure and backbone.
This is impressive wine indeed. 18+/20 (January 2007)
Les Carmes de Rieussec (Sauternes) 2002: The second wine of
Rieussec. An appealing, well defined
style with some reserved fruit character on the nose. Honey and pineapple again,
but elegantly composed, balanced and very nicely knit together. Rather
harmonious, fluid and well composed. There is a reserved style here like that on
the nose, and good style. A good second wine from a lesser vintage. From the
2007 CIVB tasting.
15.5-16+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 2001:
From a half bottle.
Without doubt probably the most talked about wine of this vintage, thanks to an
excess of pointy awards. Prices have rocketed. This has a glistening, honey-gold
hue. The nose is very fine, with a palpable vibrancy, the freshness of oranges
and blossom and freshly scraped vanilla pod, intermingled with chalky, minerally
botrytis. Immediately apparent on the palate is a beautifully plump texture, its
creamy weight infused with honey, mineral and botrytis richness. This has patent
intensity, but also has a divine integration and is very finely poised. And it
is very, very long. This is remarkable, and has amazing potential for the
cellar. I understand completely why this wine has received such accolades, and I
look forward to drinking the rest of my case over the ensuing years. From a
2001 Sauternes assessment.
19.5+/20 (July 2006)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1999: From a half bottle. A really quite deep, vibrant gold hue evident in the glass, and certainly
has a little more depth and intensity than the preceding vintage. On the nose it
first shows a little volatility, fleetingly reminiscent of the 2001
Suduiraut (although nowhere near as
pungent), but what this wine really displays is a huge depth. There is a pile of
nascent flavour here, especially in comparison to the 1998. On the palate it has
richness and fat, carried in a well composed fashion. There is good fresh
acidity, laced with a little volatility although this does all blow off with
just a little time. It has a lifted, bright style, but is full of grip and is
very firmly put together. A wine full of promise, showing power now, but with
great potential for the future. This is indeed an excellent 1999. For label
images and more see my Wine of the Week
write-up. 18+/20 (January 2007)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1998: From a half bottle. An attractive,
lemon-gold colour. The nose has some appealing although subtle notes of botyrtis,
and is a little high-toned, but overall it is deeply characterful and very
attractive with an array of pleasing aromas. Similar depth to it on the palate,
which is firm, quite grippy really, with a masculine, upright style and good
structure. Just a little oily touch to the finish. Really very attractive
for what was not an exalted vintage. Great length too. Very good indeed. 17/20 (January 2007)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1997: From a half bottle.
A delightfully richly coloured, burnished gold. the nose is quite fine showing oranges
with a woody, oaky note in the background, with good botrytis character. The
palate is unexpectedly rounded and harmonious, showing a fat and grippy and creamy
style, but with an appropriate acidity that seems a little more firm than when I
last tasted, which is no bad thing. Delightfully vibrant and interesting, with a
meaty, savoury finish and plenty of character. Really full of potential, and it
should be great with just a little more time in the cellar. From a tasting of
the 1997 Vintage at ten
years of age. 18+/20 (December 2007)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1997: From a half bottle. A deep,
burnished, orange-gold. Oranges and flower petals dominate the nose, with good
botrytis character and just a touch of volatile acidity. Fat, creamy, full and
impressive on the palate, but it is well poised with some delicate acidity
beneath it all. But it is undeniably rich, with a lovely, meaty botrytis
character. This is certainly still on the way up, and should drink well for
years I think. Excellent. 18+/20 (January 2007)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1986: From one of my favourite Sauternes
vintages, a vintage that, surprise, surprise, I wish I owned and drank more of.
A light tartrate sediment, but otherwise a crystal clear mid-gold colour. A
wonderful nose, honeyed, full of quince, barley sugar, all very bright and
lifted. This is very fine. The same impression comes from the palate, which is
upright and mineral, showing a little chalkiness through the midpalate. Full,
quince and honey flavour, elegantly creamy but with very precise, well
delineated acidity. A lovely balanced sweetness, and a divine length. This is an
absolute stunner, which in terms of maturity is still very much on the up I
feel. Excellent. From my 2006
Birthday Treats. 19+/20 (March 2006)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1983: From a half bottle. Plentiful
tartrate crystals. A fantastic burnished orange-gold colour. Open and expressive
nose, botrytis-influenced, mature and rich, but with certain freshness. Toast
and honey-soaked sponge character. Medium bodied, but builds a richness through
the midpalate, showing powerful botrytis and concentration. Toast, marmalade,
spicy curd flavours. It keeps a lovely balance throughout, with a lovely fluid
elegance on the finish. Delicious. 18.5/20 (July 2004)
Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1981:
Tasted alongside Chateau Coutet 1981. A good depth of
colour for the vintage. Some richness on the nose, with some botrytis. The
palate has great sweetness, with a lovely depth and texture. Complex and
structured. Marmalade notes, decent botrytis and correct acidity. This is
impressively rich, minerally and enjoyable considering this was a weak vintage
for Sauternes and Barsac. 18/20 (July 2004)
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