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Château Preuillac

The vineyard at Château Preuillac, which is located in Lesparre-Médoc, to the north of St Estèphe, and is this entitled to the Médoc appellation, dates from at least the 19th century, when the property was in the ownership of a gentleman named Laloubie. There came a major turning point in 1869, however, when the property was purchased by Edmond Adde, who revitalised the vineyard, subsequently winning significant awards at competitions in Paris, Bordeaux, Antwerp and Liege with his wine. After Adde came Théodore Crozat, who acquired the estate in 1922. He continued Adde's philosophy of hard work in the vineyard being the key to making the best wine. It was under his tenure, in 1932, that the vineyard was classified as a Cru Bourgeois estate. Preuillac does not feature in the very recent (and defunct, following a successful legal challenge) Cru Bourgeois classification, however, reflecting the decline of the estate over the intervening years. That, however, does not take into account the work of the current owner, Jean-Christophe Mau.

After Adde the vineyards fell into disrepair, and were not rescued from their ignoble fate until 1969, when Preuillac was purchased by Raymond Bouët, who wished to use it is a country retreat where he would retire. On realising the estate's history, however, he re-established the vineyards. Between 1973 and 1975 he built a new barrel cellar, and then remarkably an impressive château in an 18th century style, complete with underground cellars. Upon his death the estate was bequeathed to Helene, his widow, who ran it along with their daughter, Anne. But their interest in the estate did perhaps not quite match that of the late Raymond; in 1998, the estate was purchased by the Mau family in partnership with the Dirkzwager family, Dutch distillers.

Since the takeover Preuillac has been the subject of continued refurbishment and improvement. Several plots of the 30 hectare vineyard are being worked over, failing vines pulled up and replaced following appropriate soil analyses in a program of replanting that is projected to last for another thirty years. Elsewhere missing vines have been replaced, drains are being installed, and the whole vineyard has been retrained. About half the vineyard has clay-limestone and gravel soils, one quarter gravel, and one quarter sandy-gravel. The varieties planted are Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (48%) and Cabernet Franc (2%), with an average age of 35 years. Between the rows of vines the soil is ploughed and there are no chemical herbicides used. There is a green harvest in June, and in August the vines undergo leaf stripping, firstly on the sunrise side to improve circulation encourage ripening, later the other side too, the aim being to prevent rot from threatening the harvest. Yields are typically 45 hl/ha.

At harvest time the fruit goes over a sorting table which was introduced in 1999, before destemming and then a cold soak for up to three days, achieved using cooling equipment and dry ice. The fermentation is subject to similar control, with a maximum temperature of 28ºC, rising to 32ºC thereafter to encourage extraction of colour and tannins. Then the wine is run-off for malolactic fermentation, part in oak barrels, part in wooden vats. Thereafter Château Preuillac, the grand vin (8000 cases per annum), goes into oak, one-third purchased new for each vintage, for twelve months. The wines are fined before bottling, but not routinely filtered. The whole process is overseen by Jean-Christophe Mau and oenologist Michel Dufaure, with advice from Stéphane Derenoncourt. There is also a second wine, Château Le Preuil, of which there are 3000 cases per annum.

My visit to Preuillac in late 2006 marked my first exposure to the wines of this estate. It was very instructive to me to taste them blind, against (as I found out when the labels were revealed) matched vintages from a highly regarded Cru Bourgeois property. Preuillac stood up very well against its peer. The 2005 was clearly the most exciting wine of the bunch, but I also enjoyed the light-footed finesse of the 2004, which had freshness and flavour, and will make for fine short term drinking. I must confess tasting these two wines blind I overestimated their likely retail prices by a not inconsiderable amount. As is the case with Château Brown, Preuillac is another property where Mau and Derenoncourt are turning out attractive, gently fleshy, supple wines that will undoubtedly attract many fans as they become better known. (27/2/07)

Contact details:
Address: Château Preuillac, 33340 Lesparre-Médoc
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 09 00 29
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 09 00 34
Internet: www.chateau-preuillac.com
GPS: 45.306636, -0.890783

Château Preuillac - Tasting Notes

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Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2010: The blend here is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. A dark and restrained hue, with rather a matt appearance. Really dark-fruited, with the suggestion of desiccation here. Rather a solid feel on the palate, supple and nicely composed through the middle, the tannins showing rather well behind the bold fruit, and the fruit has a much fresher feel here than it did on the nose. I think that 60% Merlot shows through in the character of the wine. Nevertheless, this is nicely shaped, with deep and dark nuances throughout, well framed by its fresh acidity. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5/20 (April 2011)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2009: This is equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The nose starts off with warm, alcohol-macerated cherries on the nose, with the suggestion of meaty richness. Lots of substance on the palate, a firm tannic core, loaded with supple fruit too. A bigger style than usual, certainly robust, but with a nice seam of acidity to help maintain freshness. A good effort from Preuillac. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2008: There is open, expressive, rather firm and brawny fruit on the nose here. This is followed by a moderate texture on entry, with firm midpalate structure, and very firm acidity too. Grippy, with a forthright finish, this is a good effort from this estate. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2007: Smoky, charcoaly fruit showing a lot of new oak here although this is over represented in the sample and will only influence 33% of the final blend. A nice, gentle substance, a nice tannic grip, and decent acidity. Straightforward, nicely composed wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)

There follow two notes on barrel samples tasted at the château in late 2006. I have not scored these embryonic wines.

Château Preuillac Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: A barrel sample. Smoky cassis fruit, pure and minerally, a little grassy greenness though, but it has some nice, clean lines. It has purity and I think for a difficult vintage it is perhaps rather good. Some tannin in the finish. Has potential. No score.

Château Preuillac Merlot 2006: A barrel sample. A very dark hue. A little plumper than the Cabernet, surprisingly tannic, quite grippy, ripe and firm. very solidly composed. This should be a good component to the final wine and will bring the blend some welcome substance I think. No score.

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: A glossy hue here, with moderate density. The nose has a smoky layer of fruit, with a fine meaty quality, slightly high-toned on this showing but fine and certainly evolving. Nicely textured, plump fruit, a touch svelte in terms of texture, ripe and well-handled tannins. A touch of spice in the finish. Coming on very nicely and certainly approachable now. 16.5/20 (March 2010)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: Smoky, some fruit, but fairly withdrawn today. Good substance on the palate though, a gently creamy texture, lots of harmony and pleasure to be had here. Ripe tannins, velvety and well composed, with a meaty quality to the fruit. A very good effort which will blossom given time. It shows the strength of the vintage when lesser regions such as the Médoc have such success. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16.5+/20 (November 2009)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: A very vibrant hue on inspection. This has lots of sweet fruit and a lively character, with some dense and concentrated fruit. Lots of freshness, sappy style and a good, grippy, tannic backbone behind. Good substance and presentation here. I like this very much, and it has good potential too. From the 2008 France Under One Roof event. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: Quite an amazing colour, dense and pure, and a vibrant and precise nose with lots of crisp fruit aromas. A very appealing palate, which has a lovely balanced of components and plenty of fresh, rounded, ripe tannins. This is quite fine and will do well in the cellar. 17+/20 (December 2006)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2004: This has a vibrant, youthful hue still. A layer of fruit on the nose with a honeyed sweetness, the same creamy character coming through onto the palate. Good firm tannins with an appealing ripe style, firm and mouth-coating with good fruit. Still very tight and tannin-bound at present, but with plenty of potential. 16+/20 (March 2010)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2004: This wine has some roasted elements apparent on the nose now, with bramble-blackberry fruit. The palate has appeal, is fleshy, and has a nice depth. A good, well-integrated character, with nice substance and peppery tannins and a firm frame of acidity. A good presence of fruit, firm creamy-svelte substance and a chalky finish. Short but well made. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16+/20 (November 2008)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2004: A bright, youthful appearance with a restrained style on the nose, rather cool, with some blackberry fruit. There is good finesse here, fine weight, quite precisely defined, this is very good quality indeed. Well balanced, with some finesse on the finish. A lovely style which should drink very well. 16.5+/20 (December 2006)

Château Le Preuil (Médoc) 2004: Quite open on the nose, with some herbal tobacco. Fresh, mid-weight, quite attractive palate. The tannins are quite firm and dry, but there is a nice texture alongside. Fresh acidity. This has a good style and for a second wine is a good effort. Drink now. 15.5/20 (December 2006)

Château Preuillac (Médoc) 2003: A good, deep colour, a very dark core, graduated out to a deep pink rim. Lots of raspberry on toast on the nose, a touch burnt, perhaps notes of the barrel. Very firmly composed, a big wall of tannin that belies the vintage, but with massive fruit too. Quite a cool style overall, nicely done, fresh with good acidity, but I don't think it quite has the texture to match the tannin. But that's 2003 for you. Good. 15.5/20 (December 2006)

Château Le Preuil (Médoc) 2003: A fairly deep hue, and quite a herbal nose, smoky, with some roasted berry fruit. On the palate it seems quite fresh, mid-weight, with a rather attractive style. There is quite a firm tannic backbone which is a mark of the vintage, but nevertheless it is approachable and pleasant to drink now. 15/20 (December 2006)