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Chateau Preuillac
The vineyard at
Chateau Preuillac, which is located in Lesparre-Médoc, to the north of St
Estèphe, and is this entitled to the
Médoc appellation, dates from at least the 19th Century, when the property was in the
ownership of a gentleman named Laloubie. There came a major turning point in
1869, however, when the property was purchased by Edmond Adde, who revitalised
the vineyard, subsequently winning significant awards at competitions in Paris,
Bordeaux, Antwerp and Liege with his wine. After Adde came Théodore Crozat, who
acquired the estate in 1922. He continued Adde's philosophy of hard work in the
vineyard being the key to making the best wine. It was under his tenure, in
1932, that the vineyard was classified as a Cru Bourgeois estate. Preuillac does
not feature in the very recent (and defunct, following a successful legal
challenge)
Cru
Bourgeois classification, however, reflecting the
decline of the estate over the intervening years. That, however, does not take
into account the work of the current owner, Jean-Christophe Mau.
After Adde the vineyards fell into disrepair, and were not rescued from their ignoble fate until 1969, when Preuillac was purchased by Raymond Bouët, who wished to use it is a country retreat where he would retire. On realising the estate's history, however, he re-established the vineyards. Between 1973 and 1975 he built a new barrel cellar, and then remarkably an impressive chateau in an 18th Century style, complete with underground cellars. Upon his death the estate was bequeathed to to Helene, his widow, who ran it along with their daughter, Anne. But their interest in the estate did perhaps not quite match that of the late Raymond; in 1998, the estate was purchased buy the Mau family in partnership with the Dirkzwager family, Dutch distillers.
Since the takeover Preuillac has been the subject of continued refurbishment and
improvement. Several plots of the 30 hectare vineyard are being worked over,
failing vines pulled up and replaced following appropriate soil analyses in a
program of replanting that is projected to last for another thirty years.
Elsewhere missing vines have been replaced, drains are being installed, and the
whole vineyard has been retrained. About half the vineyard has clay-limestone
and gravel soils, one quarter gravel, and one quarter sandy-gravel. The
varieties planted are Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (48%) and Cabernet Franc
(2%), with an average age of 35 years. Between the rows of vines the soil is
ploughed and there are no chemical herbicides used. There is a green harvest in
June, and in August the vines undergo leaf stripping, firstly on the sunrise
side to improve circulation encourage ripening, later the other side too, the
aim being to prevent rot from threatening the harvest. Yields are typically 45
hl/ha.
At harvest time the fruit goes over a sorting table which was
introduced in 1999,
before destemming and then a cold soak for up to three days, achieved using cooling
equipment and dry ice. The fermentation is subject to similar control, with a
maximum temperature of 28ºC, rising to 32ºC thereafter to encourage extraction
of colour and tannins.
Then the wine is run-off for malolactic fermentation, part in oak barrels, part
in wooden vats. Thereafter Chateau Preuillac, the grand vin (8000
cases per annum), goes into oak, one-third purchased new for each vintage, for twelve
months. The wines are fined before bottling, but not routinely filtered. The
whole process is overseen by Jean-Christophe Mau and oenologist Michel Dufaure,
with advice from Stéphane Derenoncourt. There is also a second wine, Chateau
Le Preuil, of which there are 3000 cases per annum.
My visit to Preuillac in late 2006 marked my first exposure to the wines of this estate. It was very instructive to me to taste them blind, against (as I found out when the labels were revealed) matched vintages from a highly regarded Cru Bourgeois property. Preuillac stood up very well against its peer. The 2005 was clearly the most exciting wine of the bunch, but I also enjoyed the light-footed finesse of the 2004, which had freshness and flavour, and will make for fine short term drinking. I must confess tasting these two wines blind I overestimated their likely retail prices by a not inconsiderable amount. As is the case with Chateau Brown, Preuillac is another property where Mau and Derenoncourt are turning out attractive, gently fleshy, supple wines that will undoubtedly attract many fans as they become better known. (27/2/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Preuillac, 33340 Lesparre-Médoc
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 09 00 29
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 09 00 34
Internet: www.chateau-preuillac.com
Chateau Preuillac - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2007: Smoky, charcoaly fruit showing a lot of new
oak here although this is over represented in the sample and will only influence
33% of the final blend. A nice, gentle substance, a nice tannic grip, and decent
acidity. Straightforward, nicely composed wine. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)
There follow two notes on barrel samples tasted at the chateau in late 2006. I have not scored these embryonic wines.
Chateau Preuillac Cabernet Sauvignon (barrel sample) 2006: Smoky cassis fruit, pure and minerally, a little grassy greenness though, but it has some nice, clean lines. It has purity and I think for a difficult vintage it is perhaps rather good. Some tannin in the finish. Has potential. No score.
Chateau Preuillac Merlot (barrel sample) 2006: A very dark hue. A little plumper than the Cabernet, surprisingly tannic, quite grippy, ripe and firm. very solidly composed. This should be a good component to the final wine and will bring the blend some welcome substance I think. No score.
Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: A very vibrant hue on inspection. This has
lots of sweet fruit and a lively character, with some dense and concentrated
fruit. Lots of freshness, sappy style and a good, grippy, tannic backbone
behind. Good substance and presentation here. I like this very much, and it has
good potential too. From the 2008
France Under One Roof event. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)
Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2005: Quite an amazing colour, dense and
pure, and a vibrant and precise nose with lots of crisp fruit aromas. A very
appealing palate, which has a lovely balanced of components and plenty of fresh,
rounded, ripe tannins. This is quite fine and will do well in the cellar. 17+/20
(December 2006)
Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2004: A bright, youthful appearance with a
restrained style on the nose, rather cool, with some blackberry fruit. There is
good finesse here, fine weight, quite precisely defined, this is very good
quality indeed. Well balanced, with some finesse on the finish. Lovely style
which should drink very well. 16.5+/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Le Preuil (Médoc) 2004: Quite open on the nose, with some
herbal tobacco. Fresh, midweight, quite attractive palate. The tannins are
quite firm and dry, but there is a nice texture alongside. Fresh acidity. This
has a good style and for a second wine is a good effort. Drink now. 15.5/20
(December 2006)
Chateau Preuillac (Médoc) 2003: A good, deep colour, a very dark core,
graduated out to a deep pink rim. Lots of raspberry on toast on the nose, a
touch burnt, perhaps notes of the barrel. Very firmly composed, a big wall of
tannin that belies the vintage, but with massive fruit too. Quite a cool style
overall, nicely done, fresh with good acidity, but I don't think it quite has
the texture to match the tannin. But that's 2003 for you. Good. 15.5/20
(December 2006)
Chateau Le Preuil (Médoc) 2003: A fairly deep hue, and quite a herbal
nose, smoky, with some roasted berry fruit. On the palate it seems quite fresh,
midweight, with a rather attractive style. There is quite a firm tannic backbone
which is a mark of the vintage, but nevertheless it is approachable and pleasant
to drink now. 15/20 (December 2006)
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