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Château de Pez

The little village of Pez, near St Estèphe, is home to a number of cru bourgeois properties, most little-known when compared with the superstars of the same commune, the likes of Montrose, Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Ségur. Perhaps the most widely appreciated is Ormes de Pez, a château which, through the quality of its wines and perhaps also its membership of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, seems to have a broad and appreciative following. Just next-door, however, is Château de Pez, an estate which, since the takeover by the Rouzaud family of Champagne Louis Roederer in the mid-1990s, is increasingly worthy of our attention.

History

The estate dates back to at least the 15th century, giving some credence to the claim that Château de Pez is, along with Calon-Ségur, one of the oldest properties in St Estèphe. History tells us that in 1452 the estate was in the ownership of Jean de Briscos. Exact details of how the property then passed to subsequent owners are unclear, but by 1526 the proprietor was named Ducos, and by 1585 it was in the hands of Jean de Pontac. The Pontac family are, of course, best known for a long period of association with Château Haut-Brion. It is perhaps unsurprising that it is Jean de Pontac who is credited with establishing viticulture on the Pez estate.

Thereafter the estate came to Marquis d'Aulède and then Count de Fumel, the Commander of the Province of Guyenne. These are such noble titles, but they did their owners no good when the Revolution came, and as a consequence of their stature the property was confiscated by the representatives of the new republic and sold off as a bien national. During the ensuing decades the estate passed through the hands of a number of different owners, including the Tarteiron, Balguerie, Lawton, du Vivier, Bernard and ultimately the Dousson families.

This brief history brings us right up to date, or to the late-20th century at least, when Château de Pez was once again sold. That this estate has come to the attention of modern wine writers is most probably down to this most recent change of hands; its new owners are the Rouzauds of Roederer, who own a surprising number of Bordeaux châteaux. Their purchase of Château de Pez was made in 1995, with 1996 being the first vintage entirely under their control. A visit to Pichon-Lalande, the jewel in Roederer's crown as far as Bordeaux is concerned, will often yield a taste of Château de Pez, as well as Château Bernadotte and Château Haut-Beauséjour, Roederer's other Bordeaux estates.

Vineyards and Vinification

The vineyards of Château de Pez amount to 39 hectares; these are located on a plateau just to the west of St Estèphe itself, with a typical Médocian altitude of a heady 18 metres, sloping down to just 12 metres above sea level towards then northern end. The soil underfoot is a typical Gunzian gravel, just one metre deep, sitting over the classic calcaire de St Estèphe, the limestone bedrock that runs deep - and sometimes not so deep - beneath this appellation. The vines are trained in the Double Guyot system that is favoured throughout the Médoc and are planted on Riparia Gloire rootstock at a density of 6500 vines per hectare. The average age of the vines is about 25 years, with Merlot (48%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) predominant, the remainder constituting Cabernet Franc (4%), Petit Verdot (3%) and even a little Malbec (1%). These latter varieties do not always appear in the finished wine, however, which may be a blend of solely Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The yields are well controlled - the figure of 32 hl/ha for the 2010 vintage is not atypical - and once arrived in the chai the fruit is destemmed and then fermented with maceration on the skins lasting between 20 and 30 days. After this the young wine goes into oak barriques for between 12 and 18 months. Blending occurs in the December after the harvest. The barriques are 40% new wood, 40% one year-old wood and 20% two-year old wood, with a racking every three months, and egg white fining after about a year. The finished wine is ultimately bottled without filtration, and the total production is generally between 10000 and 12500 cases per annum.

Château de Pez: Tasting and Drinking

The majority of my encounters with Château de Pez have been brief tasting encounters, often when visiting Pichon-Lalande, but occasionally at other events, so this is certainly a story of 'tasting' rather than 'drinking'. Nevertheless, it is châteaux such as this one that those of us who can no longer afford the likes of Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Ségur are being directed to these days by those who can still afford Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Ségur, so this property is certainly worth some discussion.

Nevertheless, it is only the most recent vintages, all made under the control of the Roederer team (which, as indicated above, is true of all vintages from 1996) that I can make any comment on. Of these, the most convincing has without any doubt been the 2010, which was savoury and substantial when tasted at Pichon-Lalande during the primeurs tastings. We should remind ourselves, however, that this was naturally a barrel sample and not a finished wine, so we should remain circumspect. The 2009, tasted in the same circumstances, felt a little forced, and I hope I have the opportunity to taste the finished wine someday. The 2008, meanwhile, tasted both en primeur and from bottle, has always shown a more composed structure, more so than the 2006. The 2002, tasted quite a few years ago now, was impressive for the vintage.

Overall, Château de Pez is certainly not an estate to be ignored. I don't yet find here the attraction that I sense when tasting Ormes de Pez or Phélan-Ségur, its cru bourgeois St Estèphe peers, but give it time. It may well come before long. (7/12/11)

Contact details:
Address: Château de Pez, 33180 St-Estèphe
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 30 26
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 59 39 25
Internet: www.chateaudepez.com
GPS: 45.25811, -0.789235

Château de Pez - Tasting Notes

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Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2010: Another wine in the Pichon-Lalande stable. This accounts for 62% of production at the estate. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 52.5%, Merlot 47.5%, the pH is 3.45, the IPT 73 and the alcohol comes in at 13.9%. The overall yield is 32 hl/ha. It will see 42% new oak. A dark and glossy hue on inspection. It shows some concentrated fruit on the nose. It is rather polished but also dark and backward. There is an attractive vibrancy to the fruit here, rather more lifted than I expected, and quite juicy. The fresh and lively substance is underpinned by well-judged if rather tight and grippy tannins, and a good acid backbone. A tasty, savoury, substantial finish. Very attractive. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2011)

Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2009: This wine has firm and dark fruits on the nose, and a rather solid character. There is a good substance on the palate, and a fair concentration of fruit. Rather a bold substance as suggested by the nose, a good effort, it just tastes a little forced, stretched out even, and is lacking in impact as a result. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5/20 (March 2010)

Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2008: Rather an attractive layer of smoky fruit here, sweet and violet-tinged, with a lightly gravelly and smoky note of soot to it. Certainly it has a good aromatic quality. There follows an impressive texture on entry, although a bit soft and pillowy it still manages to maintain an appealing style, perhaps helped by the structural elements, ripe and gritty tannins and fresh acids, that lie underneath. Substantial and also well composed, this will make attractive drinking; it does have a loose-knit feel at present but it should come together well as all the necessary components are there. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2010)

Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2008: This is 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. The yield was 38 hl/ha, and 65% went into the grand vin. This has dark and clean fruit on the nose, with a fresh, stony, somewhat perfumed character. There is a nicely supple texture on the palate, well integrated structure, with a little richness. Good acids, and midpalate texture and tannin. Very approachable and easy to taste. This shows some promise. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2006: A fine spice on the nose here, supple and rather a soft suggestion of fruit, perfumed, savoury too though, with a faint touch of undergrowth and tea leaves. Seems to be rather forward in that respect. A soft and rather supple palate on entry, very softly textured, broad, not vigorous in terms of structure. Coming together better in the midpalate, a bit more grip here, and some nice acids too. Aromatically it gives some pleasure. This will drink soon; it needs just a few more years. From a 2006 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 15.5+/20 (November 2010)

Château de Pez (St Estèphe) 2002: An appealing, rather dusty style, with a nutty perfumed nose. On the palate it has an attractive presence with grip and a fleshy body, combined with moderately low acidity. I find it appealing. This is nice for drinking now although short-term ageing wouldn't be out of the question. From the 2007 CIVB tasting. 16-16.5+/20 (May 2004)