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A Vertical of Mouton-Rothschild

Having not long assessed the 2007 Bordeaux vintage during the annual primeur tastings, which was a fabulous experience (regardless of the quality of the wines, which in many cases was not so fabulous), it seems only right that I should bring these Mouton notes to the fore. Unfortunately, no direct comparisons between the two will be possible, as although my brief but busy trip included tastings of all the other left bank first growths, as well as Ausone, Cheval-Blanc, Petrus and Le Pin on the right bank, Mouton was absent. With so many chateaux requiring appointments, and time so limited, there are I suppose always some casualties, even at this level. Tant pis! Not to worry; just a few months before the 2007 tastings I had been able to considerably broaden my experience of Mouton in a vertical tasting organised by Decanter, and led by Mouton director Hervé Berland. There was no 2007 vintage, to show it would have been rather pointless; instead, a selection of wines including the second wine Petit Mouton, the white Aile d'Argent and several carefully chosen vintages of the grand vin.

The white wines were up first, with the 2005 Aile d'Argent contrasted against the 1998 vintage. The literal translation of the name usually produces the phrase silver wing, which was the name of a magic teapot that was central to a children's story recounted by Baron Philippe Rothschild to his daughter, now Baroness Philippine, when she was a young girl. Whilst imprisoned during World War II the baron put the story onto paper, and it was subsequently published, under the title Aile d'Argent la Magique, in 1947. The wine is dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in oak which is 50% new each vintage, and then held in the barrels for nine months before bottling. As for the two wines on show, I preferred the 2005 to the more mature 1998, as even though the former had the opulent fruit and relatively shy acidity of the vintage it still showed a good freshness. The 1998 was much more elegantly composed, silky and integrated, but I think the 2005 will be a greater wine in time.

Then came Petit Mouton, the second wine, from two superb left bank vintages, 2005 and 1996. Although I have long been familiar with the label, I had not previously appreciated that this was another design by Jean Carlu, the man who was also behind the first ever Mouton label, for the 1924 vintage. There was little to choose between the two wines save for the obvious difference in maturity; both were very good indeed, although again I preferred the 2005 to the 1996. Once again I feel with time it will be a more impressive wine, although the difference between the two was much finer than between the two vintages of Aile d'Argent.

Finally, an impressive line up of vintages of the grand vin; travelling backwards in time we started with the 2005, before skipping to the 2003 and 2000, then 1998, 1996, 1989 and 1986. Clearly these all had something to offer, and it was naturally the mature wines, particularly the 1989, that had many tasters swooning. Nevertheless, looking at the quality of the wines rather than their stage of development, it was the 2005 that blew all of its peers out of the water. Of the other younger wines - 2003 and 2000 - it was the latter that was closest in terms of sheer quality, and although the 2003 was also exceptionally good, brimming with richness and substance, for me it did not have the finesse and polish possessed by the other two young wines. From the 1990s it was, to my palate, the 1996 that really impressed. The year has always struck me as a superb vintage for the left bank, dominated by the pure flavours of ripe (but not over-ripe) Cabernet Sauvignon, and this is true of Mouton as much as any other wine I think, even though 23% of the wine is Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Served from magnum, the 1996 displayed a fabulous perfume and wonderful structure, and was immensely superior to the 1998. From the 1980s only two vintages were assessed, but as I have already alluded both gave their utmost, and although the 1989 was delightful on the day, I think the 1986 still has a lot to give; this wine may well be worth revisiting in ten or even twenty years time.

My tasting notes are presented here, starting with whites, then the second wine, before moving onto the grand vin. These notes are also collated, along with all my other experiences of these wines, in my main Mouton-Rothschild profile. (22/4/08)

A Vertical of Mouton-Rothschild - Tasting Notes

Tasted in February 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 2005: SB 70%, Sem 29%, Muscadelle 1%. A good, fairly rich hue. There is a lot of oak present on the nose, with aromas of sweet honey and passion fruit. It has a tropical style, with a dense and yet forward, vibrant palette of aromas. It has a creamy element, with a fabulous freshness, later showing some of the grapefruit of young Sauvignon Blanc. A fine presence on the palate, rich and well rounded, with quite some weight. There is some acidity, but it is well hidden by the fruit and texture. Exuberant tropical fruit character, but with a firm substance and oak-derived grip, especially on the finish. More acidity would provide welcome vigour, but this has fine potential nevertheless. Needs to integrate somewhat though. 17.5+/20

Aile d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc) 1998: A deeper hue than the 2005, the effect of age. A very different style to the 2005 here, it is still honeyed but with a maturity rather than a simple oak-derived character. There are aromas of dried fruit, hazelnuts and fine, polished leather, cream-tinged baked fruits. It starts very gently on the palate, in a much more composed fashion that the 2005. Softly integrated, it still has grip but with a much more silky style. Nice acidity and flavours that follow the nose. Good wine. 17/20

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 2005: CS 60%, CF 20%, M 20%. The second wine accounts for 15% of the total crop in this vintage. It still has a very deep hue, right out to the pink rim. There is quite a distinctive nose here, with a dense, slightly treacly, toffee character, from the oak I think. Dried red fruits, especially cranberry and cherry, with a smoky edge. Nice, precise character. Quite light and lifted on entry, but it has substance and some depth, and it shows minerality and a nice detachment, with a stony midpalate. There are slightly hard, austere tannins, giving a good grip, and good acids. An attractive dry red fruit finish, with a little rally of tannins here. Some length. Really very good second wine. 17/20

Petit Mouton (Pauillac) 1996: CS 95%, CF 5%. This wine has a very attractive maturing hue, a dense core with a good depth of colour right out to the rim. A lovely nose, maturing iron-bound fruit, alongside a toasty character, with spices and a touch of pepper. A lovely presence on the palate, elegant style, that many would describe as classic I think. Upright, with a good acid core, perhaps a touch austere, but this would be delicious now with food. It has a good grip, a dry finish and a firm, grippy length. Although approachable now, it would benefit from a little more texture of softness in the finish. Nevertheless, very good indeed. 16.5/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2005: CS 85%, CF 1%, M 14%. Unsurprisingly this has an intense, youthful, crimson appearance, with a densely coloured rim. Pure cassis, raspberry and cranberry fruit on the nose, creamy and intense, still showing toasty and toffee oak but this is well covered by the wealth of fruit. The palate is creamy, with a firm seam of tannins, but they are ripe and well protected. Piles of fruit, lovely depth and complexity, with spiced bramble and summer fruits, but with well balanced acidity. This is exotic and very fine indeed. Great potential. 19.5+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2003: CS 76%, CF 8%, M 14%, PV 2%. Dark and already deepening in hue, and taking on a more mature, matt appearance. But certainly still vibrant in character. The nose is wonderful - with huge, dark, deep and intense aromas. There are traces of coffee, a massive depth of fruit and a pickling spice complexity, and is there a little alcohol evident here also? It has an appealing and cool style on entry, although it is full and textured. It is seductive and yet firm at the same time. It has the textural quality of the vintage, very polished in style but also firm and rich in alcohol. But the flavours, of dried fruits, are good, and there is punchy grip on the finish. Really very good, although not the purity or finesse of some other recent vintages. 18+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 2000: CS 86%, M 14%. This has a very dense colour, fading just a touch at the rim. The nose, surprisingly, is showing some development. The fruit characteristics are fading, and there are some secondary elements coming through. There are some dense, sun-baked black fruits, with a little smoke. This has a wonderful, classic, Cabernet-dominated left-bank style, with a little pickling spice depth. It has a cool and broad style, and a lot of substance. Weighty and yet fine, this has a very beautifully composed style, although not as elegantly styled as the 2005. It shows a little trace of maturity, which is surprising. Nevertheless, excellent. 18.5+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1998: CS 86%, CF 2%, M 12%. This is a less intensely coloured wine than some others, with a dense core but a wide rim. There is already plenty of interest here, notes of truffles and smoke over the gravel, all tinged with dark fruits. This vintage doesn't have the density of some vintages served. It is somewhat leaner, although it is elegant with rather firm tannins. It builds substance in the midpalate, showing a little marrowy flesh, but it has a more austere character towards the finish, and it seems rather stretched out here. But overall it has a good substance. Plenty of potential here. 16.5+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1996: CS 77%, CF 13%, M 10%. From magnum. This wine has a superb colour compared to the maturing wines tasted alongside; it has a dark core, a dense rim, with plenty of red pigment still. This is very impressive. The nose here is divine; it has a very typical profile for the vintage, full of iron and rust, but enticingly perfumed with violets. It kicks off very elegantly on the palate, and it has a wonderful texture, composed rather than showy. It has great style; the tannins and acidity show through and there is plenty of perfumed character as there is on the nose. There is structure and grip, and a fine persistence. This very superb wine, with its reserved character, will go for more than ten years yet. At its apogee this will be truly remarkable. 19+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1989: CS 78%, CF 14%, M 8%. A very successful vintage, which saw an early harvest, the Merlot finished on September 6th and the Cabernet Sauvignon finished on September 25th. This has an appealing, mature hue, with moderate intensity. But what a nose! Although it does not have the depth of the 1996 on inspection, it has a delightful perfume, with violets, lean but bloody meat, iron and more. This is lovely. On the palate, this wine has a fine presence, pure and quite well defined. Broad, nicely textured, with quite some grip here. There is a very good acidity too. It has a very elegant and complete nature, with notes of violets, spice and more. This has a great, integrating composition and lovely style. And it has an impressive length, that goes on and on. The 1996 will one day give more pleasure I think, but right now this is very fine indeed. 18.5+/20

Chateau Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac) 1986: CS 80%, CF 8%, M 10%, PV 2%. This is slightly more dense than the 1989, tasted alongside. This has a dense and stony nose, less perfumed than some other less mature examples, with a touch of calcareous rock and some reserved fruit. This isn't yet fully developed. Dense, firm, tight and rather straightforward in character on the palate. There is good acidity, and a firm core of tannin although not as much as I expected; perhaps the wines of this vintage are beginning to come around at last. It holds together very nicely on the finish although it doesn't linger as long as I thought it might. There is potential here; this wine needs time yet to show its best. 17+/20