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Chateau La Pointe

Pomerol is a place of small vineyards and small estates, not normally graced by anything so grand as a chateau. Most have nothing more than a collection of functional, often single-storey buildings. Many sit so low that I sometimes feel that they are perhaps trying to look inconspicuous, blending in, shrinking into the ground. The vineyards they accompany are often tiny, the average size being something in the order of 5 hectares. For an estate to be more than four times the average, complete with an attractive two-storey chateau and a 3.5-hectare garden of mature trees, must surely make it stand out from the crowd?

The estate in question is Chateau La Pointe, an estate which dates to at least the 19th century, although it is perhaps much older than that; the details are lost in the mists of time. At this time the property was in the ownership of the Chaperons, a family long-settled and well-known in the region, and it was they that were responsible for the construction of the aforementioned chateau. Under their tenure the estate accounted for 21 hectares, an area much the same as that committed to the vine today, accounting for 3% of the modern Pomerol appellation. In size it is second only to Nenin, the vineyards of which neighbour those of La Pointe.

In 1941 the d'Arfeuille family acquired the estate, it subsequently passing down two generations to Stéphane d'Arfeuille, who together with his wife Dominique took charge in 1975. The family sold to the current owners in 2007, an action in part due to France's Napoleonic laws of inheritance; it was preferable to sell, rather than divide the estate. After failing to reach an agreement with a sequence of three potential buyers, the fourth and successful suitor was Generali, one of France's leading insurance providers, perhaps keen to follow AXA into the world of Bordeaux. The group already owned a vineyard in northern Italy as well as a minor estate in Bordeaux, Chateau de France, but La Pointe - with a price tag somewhere between €32 and €35 million - was certainly a step up for them. The deal was struck, and it would be up to Generali executive Eric Monneret, who also runs La France, a somewhat larger estate at 90 hectares, to take charge at La Pointe.

Vineyards and Wines

The vineyards are located at the south-western extreme of the Pomerol appellation, near Libourne, and the name of the estate is derived from their pointed orientation. The soils on the estate vary, but include sand, in some areas mixed with gravel, and also clay; deeper underfoot is the typical crasse de fer, the iron-rich subsoil that typifies the appellation. The vines are predominantly Merlot, as this accounts for 75% of the vineyard, with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, and the vines average 35 years of age. The soil is worked to improve aeration, and there is minimal fertilisation.

The fruit is sorted immediately after harvest and handled in a traditional fashion in the cellar, with fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, before going into oak for 15 to 18 months. Only 30-35% of the barrels are replaced each year, so new wood is not a strong feature of this wine. The grand vin is Chateau La Pointe and the second wine, created in 1986, is La Pointe Riffat, the combined output being in the order of 10000 cases.

The wines of La Pointe are, historically at least, very different in style to many from the Pomerol appellation. The soils are dominated by sand, to my mind conferring a significant disadvantage, and which I feel is likely to be at least partly responsible for the somewhat unfocused, soft style that La Pointe often displays. Having tasted a few vintages, always in a line up of its peers, it is never my favourite Pomerol, by a long road. I sometimes have the feeling that, even acknowledging that this sandy terroir might not be the best in this commune, La Pointe should give something more than it does at present. Looking at a spread of 20th century vintages in Bordeaux (Faber & Faber, second edition, 1991) David Peppercorn felt that the "splendid" 1970 was the estate's final flourish before standards declined. Wishing for a new era, he wrote that he hoped for a time "when the wines will recall the delight of the fifties and sixties, rather than the mediocrity of the seventies". Judging by my tastings, his wish does not yet seem to have been granted. But there is hope here, hope grounded in the potential for change afforded by a new chef de cave, Emilie Faniest, appointed in 2004. If this is not enough, perhaps the acquisition of the estate by Generali and the arrival of Eric Monneret may have some effect. New ownership means new blood; it can bring enthusiasm, fresh expertise and of course increased financial investment. With that in mind it might be very interesting to see how things develop here at la Pointe in the coming years. (29/7/09)

Contact details:
Address: 33500 Pomerol
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 51 02 11
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 51 42 33
Internet: www.chateaulapointe.com

Chateau La Pointe - Tasting Notes

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Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) 2008: The aromas suggest dark fruits, and sweeter nuances than some, and yet it has a fairly crisp style on the palate. Cranberry fruit sits over a layer of ripe tannin, good extract and decent acidity. There is a somewhat rustic edge to the composition but nevertheless a better and more approachable effort in this vintage. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) 2007: Soft and slightly animally fruit on the nose here, with gently spiced wood. The palate is rather soft, poorly distinguished, with a rather hollow feel to it. A hard style, short on fruit, but showing plenty of overt structure. I find this over-built and lacking generosity. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 13+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) 2007: This has a slightly jammy quality to the fruit aromas, which are rich and sweet. The palate seems very modern in style, rich and soft, creamy and flattering, with less prominent acidity at first. There are some finely presented acids apparent in the midpalate though, as well as a welling up of firm, extracted tannins. Simply piles of grip here. The extraction is on the edge for me. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) 2006: Warm fruit here, nutty oak, otherwise this isn't really a very expressive wine on the nose. It has a very lean entry, and a firm character thereafter, lacking flesh. It seems to be all structure and tannin, and shows little to round off its hard edges. This doesn't possess the charm of some of the other wines. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 13+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau La Pointe (Pomerol) 2004: A nice presence of spiced plum fruit on the nose, with a little oak still showing. A little more obviously extracted than the other wines in this line up, showing rather raw tannins over rather than beneath the fruit. A huge grip. More dried out in character. Good, with potential, but this is the short straw among these wines. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)