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Chateau La Louvière
Around Bordeaux there are a number of estates which, despite being excluded from the upper echelons of the relevant classification systems, still seem to take on the level of kudos more readily associated with estates in possession of a more ennobled ranking. Examples might include Potensac, which no doubt benefits from the association with Léoville Las Cases, the two estates being under the same ownership. In St Emilion, Faugères perhaps, or maybe even Teyssier would do to illustrate my point; estates with no notable ranking, but which nevertheless turn out excellent wines, admittedly in very different styles in the latter two cases. In Pessac-Léognan we have a good example in La Louvière; although not ranked among the classified estates of 1959 the wines are frequently of good quality and can, in some cases, stand up well against those from more famous properties.
The story of La Louvière begins in the late 14th Century with a plot of land named sometimes
Lobeyra, sometimes Loubière and sometimes, thankfully, Louvière - all of these
names remind us of the wolves (Latin: lupus) that still purportedly roamed the
forests of Léognan at the time. The owners from 1398 onwards were the Guilloche family,
seemingly a collection of poets and politicians. It was during the early 16th
Century that they consolidated their position at La Louvière, first Pierre and then
Jean de Guilloche acquiring tracts of land to augment their estate. The property
grew to a considerable size, but it did not necessarily afford them a simple and
straightforward life; Pierre, a local Provost, was killed in the St
Bartholomew's Day Massacre, a violent Catholic uprising against the Huguenot
Protestants that was the worst killing spree of the French Wars of Religion. The
estate thus passed to his son Jean, who married a noblewoman named Roquetaillade,
and his family continued their ownership until selling the property to Arnaud de
Gascq in 1618, the abbot at Saint-Ferme. Just two years later he passed it to
the Carthusian Order of Notre Dame de Miséricorde in Bordeaux, and the monks
worked the estate - paying particular attention to the vineyards, naturally -
until it was lost to them in the Revolution.
Confiscated and sold as a bien national in 1791, the new owner was a wealthy wine merchant named Jean-Baptiste Mareilhac, who also subsequently owned Rieussec. It was he that was responsible for the construction of the château which still stands there today; an attractive property with clean lines, it was the work of François Lhôte, a pupil of the celebrated architect Victor Louis. The property, complete with interior decoration by the Flemish artist Lonsing, has been protected by listed status since 1991. There was work in the vineyard as well, and by the time Jean-Baptiste's grandson Alfred was in charge during the second half of the 19th Century the wine had established a good reputation. It was not until 1911 that the property changed hands again, coming to Alfred Bertrand-Taquet, a man who subsequently went on to become mayor in 1919. He ran La Louvière until World War II, after which it was unoccupied for fifteen years, before the estate and vineyards were rescued from an ignoble fate when they were purchased by André Lurton in 1965. Thus, as the Graves classification was drawn up in the late 1950s, the property had stood half-derelict; it is not perhaps surprising that La Louvière was excluded from the shortlisting of properties, the list which was eventually moulded into the classification that still stands, unchanged, today. Since then La Louvière has been renovated and restored, as is the case with many of the estates Lurton has acquired over the years.
Today the La Louvière vineyard totals 61.5 hectares, with 13.5 for white
varieties and 48 for red; the soils are mostly gravel, with some areas of
limestone. The vines have an average age of approximately 22 years, and are
planted on 101.14, Riparia gloire and 3309 rootstocks at a density of up to 8500
vines/ha. With regard to the white varieties, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for 85%
of the vineyard, with 15% Semillon; these are harvested by hand in several
tries before fermentation in oak barrels at a temperature of up to 23ºC,
before 12 months ageing on the lees with bâtonnage. The red varieties
include 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 3% each of Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. After harvesting by hand these are fermented in a mixture of
stainless steel and concrete tanks, with temperatures allowed to rise to 30ºC.
The wine then sees up to 12 months of oak, up to 75% new each vintage, before an
egg white fining and bottling. The grand vin, be it red or white, is
Chateau La Louvière, and there are second wines in both colours named L
de Louvière. The whole process is overseen by cellarmaster Olivier Cornu,
with consultation from Denis Dubourdieu on both the red and white fermentations.
Mature vintages of La Louvière have not crossed my lips that often, with the 1994 red being the only potential candidate; on both occasions I have really enjoyed this wine. In more recent vintages, however, there have also been some sterling efforts, for both white wines and red in 2005 and 2006, and the white 2007 was also of good quality; I did not taste the corresponding red wine from this latter vintage. In 2003 the white was very typical of the vintage and thus not really to my liking, although the red was more interesting. What is more the wines remain good value, and are certainly worth considering as an alternative to the classified wines of the region. (28/8/08)
Contact details:
Address: 149 Avenue de Cadaujac, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 75 87
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 64 71 76
Internet: www.andrelurton.com
Chateau La Louvière - Tasting Notes
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Chateau
La Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2008: There is a little reduction on the nose here,
but there are plenty of interesting Sauvignon nuances apparent, with notes of
white pepper and lemon cream. The palate is substantial though, with nice
density at the start, and moderate acidity. Good midpalate structure, a firm
grip too. This has quite a fleshy style, with good grip and structure. It could
just do with a little more vigour. From my 2008 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)
Chateau La Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This has a nutty nose from the oak, and is showing a
good depth and even some fruit complexity even at this embryonic stage. Lovely
weight on entry, great substance, broad and well structured, complete and rich
in flavour. And best of all a fine seam of acidity too. This is really
good, and if representative of the quality here this has fine potential. From my 2007 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau La Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Very green, minerally, grassy and certainly
interesting. Lots of flesh on the palate, a soft character, firm acids and lots
of texture. This doesn't have the concentration of flavour I hoped for, perhaps
this will open out more in time. Needs to integrate too. From a tasting of
2006 White Graves. 15.5-16+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau La Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A very chalky, rocky
and interesting nose, with notes of herbs, especially thyme. Full, fleshy, with
a fine showing of plump fruit on the palate, ripe but with a citrussy-pithy
freshness and a bit of grip. This has an attractive style, and a decent acid
backbone and some substance. Good herby finish. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau La Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: Sauvignon Blanc 85%,
Semillon 15%. A lovely nose here; there is cream and minerals, freshly pulled
weeds and grass. This is attractive, although with Sauvignon Blanc very plainly
dominating at the moment. Quite firm and powerful on the palate, showing a lot
of lovely flavour and style, just perhaps not the defining acidity that would
make it truly fine. Very good though. 17/20 (February 2008)
Chateau La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan)
2005: This has a very good Graves typicity, with a
dry, minerally, bright, perfumed, appealing style. The palate is similarly
styled, rather reserved and structured, with some gravelly, perfumed fruit.
There is just a touch of flesh, and overall this is very classic and stylish.
Nicely covered tannins, and good acids. Soft, tannin-infused finish. Very nicely
done. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) 2004:
This has some appealing character on the nose, although I find that it is still
showing a trace of toffee-vanilla oak which has yet to integrate. But there is
plenty of nice, bright fruit here too. The palate is rounded, in fact a touch
fat, with a gentle grip. The fruit seems to be showing a little more complexity
than previously, with elements of smoke, tobacco and cigars. The tannins are
rather gentle, and it has moderate focus. It could be more vigorous or defined
but all the same it has good points. From my assessment of
2004
Bordeaux at four years. 15.5/20 (November 2008)
Chateau La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A lovely presence of fine and crunchy fruit on the
nose. On the palate, pure black fruits, with a fine mineral and liquorice
component. It has a little more plumpness than I was expecting here after the
fresh style which marked this wine's aromatic profile. It has a good character, but
it is not as expressive on the palate as on the nose, and it is lacking some definition
here too I think. Nevertheless, it is good. 15/20 (February 2008)
Chateau la Louvière Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: A fresher, slightly
citrussy, slightly minerally nose. Full palate, rounded and very dry honey
notes. But once again the problem is low acidity and an unfocussed impression on
the palate. Another to avoid. This is clearly not a vintage for dry white
Bordeaux. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 13/20 (October 2005)
Chateau la Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: A rather reluctant nose,
although it does have a fine, pure, primary fruit character. Full and ripe style
on the palate, with an admirable texture and presence. Nice tannic structure,
quite firm, a good grippy style, but rather spoiled by insufficient acidity I
thought. Merely good. From my
2003 Bordeaux assessment. 15/20 (October 2005)
Chateau La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Only a year or two since I last had a bottle, but
this wine was beginning to drink well then. Today it has a deep red colour,
still showing just some early maturity, and lots of maturing style on the nose.
There are some fresh red fruits, deep, ripe and yet crisp and fresh, alongside
aromas of tobacco leaves, the gentlest touch of undergrowth, and little notes of
dark, smoky coffee grounds too. Fresh yet rounded, still quite firm and grippy
through the midpalate, but with plenty of deliciously slightly bitter flavours,
more tobacco and red fruits. A firm, warming finish. This is very pleasing to
drink, shows great typicité, and should improve over some years yet.
From a 1994
Bordeaux tasting. 17+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: A good deep, brooding wine,
showing plenty of colour although marked by a mature hue. Delightfully classic
Graves nose; slightly earthy, with tobacco and leather tones. Rather soft
palate, somewhat unfocussed, with low acidity, but showing lovely extract and
some nice maturing fruit, before a twist of more primary blackcurrant at the
finish. Just a little dry tannin in the finish as well. Little length. Lacks the
verve and precision of a great wine, but lovely nevertheless. Drink now and
over the next 5-8 years. 16.5+/20 (July 2005)
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