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Chateau Doisy-Védrines
The three Doisy vineyards of Barsac - Daëne, Védrines and Dubroca - all stem from a single estate, the origins of which are not well described. The earliest records are from the 18th Century and describe an estate to the south of Chateau Coutet owned by the Védrines family. The newlyweds Jean Védrines and Marie Raymond settled in a little village here named La Pinesse, which was owned by the Raymonds. Here they established an estate complete with chateau, and they or their immediate descendents are likely to have been responsible for the planting of vines. Within the same century they were expanding their domaine, acquiring a small portion of the Coutet vineyard when it was sold off, following the execution by guillotine of its owner, Gabriel-Barthélémy-Romain de Filhot, in 1794.
By the early 19th Century the estate was recognised as one of the leading
vineyards of Barsac, along with Coutet and
Climens, when it was recorded as such
in André Jullien's Topographie de Tous les Vignobles Connus, although by
this time it had changed hands, the new proprietors being the Dubosq family.
Also about this time, although it is not clear exactly when, the vineyard was
divided, as were so many of the great vineyards of Bordeaux were under the new
Napoleonic laws. Of the three portions, two were considerably smaller than the
third. The first of these two was acquired by the Faux family, this being the
genesis of Doisy-Dubroca, perhaps the least known of the three Doisy estates
that exist today. The second was purchased by Jean Jacques Emmanuel Daëne, a
name said to be derived from the English Deane, this being the nascent
Doisy-Daëne. The largest, however, remained with the original owners, the
Védrines (or Dubosq) family, and it was this part that was the origin of what is
today Doisy-Védrines. The Védrines family remained at the estate until the
middle of the 19th Century, until in 1851 they sold out to the Boireau family,
and it has remained with their descendents through to modern day. It passed
first to a Madame Teyssonneau who ran the estate well into her dotage,
eventually bequeathing the estate at the age of 94. It came to her grandson,
Pierre Castéja, who ran the estate during the remainder of the 20th Century.
With his passing Doisy-Védrines came to the next generation of the Castéja
family, Olivier.
The Doisy-Védrines vineyard remains the largest of the three Doisy estate, with 30 hectares of vines with an average age of more than 30 years. They are situated on soils fairly typical of the region, dominated by the red soils of Barsac, a mix of argilo-limestone, sand and also some clay, over a limestone bedrock peppered with fossilised shellfish exactly as at Doisy-Daëne. It is a single block of vines, covering an area considerably less than that which was planted up in previous centuries, associated with a small farmhouse which displays a mix of architectural styles, the oldest part being a small round tower dating from the 16th Century. The vineyard is dominated by Semillon, accounting for approximately 85%, the remainder being Sauvignon Blanc. Those Muscadelle vines that did have a place in the vineyard were uprooted many decades ago. As should be expected the harvest is manual, with a sequence of tries to select the berries most affected by botrytis, the fruit being transported to the chai where the fermentation is undertaken in thirteen stainless steel vats, with temperature control. Following completion the wine sees a fairly standard eighteen months in oak, 70% of which are new each vintage. The finished product is fined and filtered before bottling. The grand vin is Chateau Doisy-Védrines, and there is a second wine La Petite Védrines.
Inevitably the Doisy vineyards invite comparison, and although I have tasted one or two vintages of Doisy-Dubroca I have rather more experience with Doisy-Daëne and Doisy-Védrines. The latter two are today frequently of good quality and worth considering when looking at sweet wines for the cellar, although both may also be picked up at a good price when mature. Although quality is good they are of slightly different styles, with Doisy-Daëne perhaps a little more elegant than the Doisy-Védrines, although the latter has that vibrant Barsac acidity to counterbalance the richness of the style. On the one or two occasions where I have tasted them against one another, in the same vintage, I note that I have come down slightly in favour of Doisy-Védrines, but this would not be true for all tasters I am sure. Those that value a more ethereal style may well be better off with the Doisy-Daëne. (24/7/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Doisy-Védrines, 33720 Barsac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 27 15 13
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 27 26 76
Chateau Doisy-Védrines - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) 2007: A lovely, creamy, flattering nose with the aromas of lemon meringue and
delicious pastries. The palate is direct and well defined, but is very full.
There is good botrytis here, creamy with honey, minerals pepper and more. This
is a wine of substance, with a lovely composition, and plenty of good acidity
underneath it all. This should be very fine indeed. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 17-18+/20
Chateau Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) 2006: Fresh, open, delicate and really quite
pretty. White fruits, vibrant flavour, rather low acidity, pleasing flavours, a
little grip, clean and well presented. Could be an early-drinking crowd-pleaser.
Not serious or rich in botrytis, but quite nice. From my
2006 Bordeaux assessment.
15-16/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) 2005: A very bright and lively set of aromatics
here, showing nice vanilla, honey and pineapple characteristics. Rich and
creamy, with a rather soft and fleshy style, with acidity also on the low side.
There is a little grip running beneath it all, and a rather candied pastille
character to the fruit, nicely livened up with some good botrytis. Very good
indeed. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at two
years of age. 17-17.5+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) 2004: A very expressive nose here, with some
good botrytis character, and lots of honeyed, apricots and quince. Rich, fat and
unctuous on the palate, with acidity on the low side again. Lacks a little
balance and focus perhaps, but remains quite fresh despite this. Honeyed fruit,
with great depth on the finish. Good wine, with potential. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau Doisy-Védrines (Barsac) 2003: Quite ethereal, white flower nose, with
rich honey and barley sugar undertones. Good character on the palate, which has
a very fresh style, although it carries worthy peach and other stone fruit
flavour, with a fine honey sweetness. Lovely weight and presence. Very good.
From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 18/20 (October 2005)
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