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Château Dauzac

Dauzac might once have been regarded as one of the 'lost châteaux' of the Médoc, although in recent years we have seen the beginning of a very significant change for this Margaux fifth growth. Once rather an unknown, Dauzac is now, thanks to new ownership, gaining a new and exciting reputation as a source of good quality wines. This turnaround has been effected under the direction of André Lurton, who has managed the property since 1992.

The estate itself is quite ancient, records indicating that it was in existence as long ago as the 13th century, although as was the case throughout the Médoc at that time there was no viticulture ongoing here. To find evidence of this we must move forward several hundred years to the 18th century, when the estate was under the tenure of Thomas Michael Lynch. The Lynch family was of Irish descent, the most notable member being Count Jean-Baptiste Lynch, who was born at Château Dauzac in 1749, and who went on to become mayor of Bordeaux between 1809 and 1815. Thomas Michael Lynch acquired Dauzac in 1740, subsequently expanding the vineyards to cover an area which matches that of the estate today. Under the direction of Thomas Lynch the quality of the wine improved, a significant step towards eventual ranking as a fifth growth in the 1855 classification. Having said that, not long afterwards the estate was sold on, the buyer being Nathanial Johnston, a shipping firm established by William Johnston, a Scot, in 1734. His business was originally the transport of all manner of goods, but with the subsequent purchase of cellars he soon became a major player in the buying, cellaring and shipping of wine. In 1840, Nathanial Johnston purchased a share in Château Latour, and subsequently added Ducru-Beaucaillou and Dauzac to its assets in 1865.

A major problem for the new owners was downy mildew, which was rife in the vineyards of all Bordeaux near the end of the 19th century. Like Phylloxera, downy mildew was also a problem unwittingly imported from the United States, in this case caused by the fungus Plasmopara Viticola. In fact, it is quite plausible that the problem had been imported along with the American rootstocks that were rushed over as a potential solution to the great devastator, Phylloxera. By 1878 the disease was first recorded in France, being observed by Pierre Marie Alexis Millardet, Professor of Botany at Bordeaux University, and his colleague, Planchon. Millardet was a student of Anton de Bary, widely regarded as the father of modern plant pathology, a reputation no doubt engendered by having proved using rational, controlled scientific experiment that fungus was the cause of the greatest crop disease of all, potato blight. Millardet duly asserted that downy mildew was also a fungal disease, still a relatively new concept, but had no cure, until a serendipitous discovery on an October stroll through the vineyards. He noticed that those vines growing along the roadside on one particular estate were still in possession of healthy, lush foliage, whereas those further from the road displayed the usual signs of the disease, namely loss of greenery and obvious fungal attack; on inspection of the healthy plants he noted a strange blue-white deposit painted on the leaves. The vineyard in question was part of the Ducru-Beaucaillou estate, and on locating the vineyard manager, Ernest David, Millardet learnt that this mix of copper sulphate and lime was David's favoured method of preventing pilfering of the grapes by those travelling along the road. It was clear to Millardet, however, that the treatment had a much greater potential than that of a mere theft deterrent. He and Planchon, together with Ernest David, developed the treatment now known as Bordeaux mixture, experimenting not on the vines where it was originally 'discovered', but rather on the less precious vines of Château Dauzac.

So Dauzac and David played a major role in the history of Bordeaux, and of all viticulture in Europe (downy mildew had quickly spread well beyond France's borders), but not even such exalted history can save a château from the ravages of the 20th century. The quality was initially very good and the wines were in demand, as evinced by the award of an hors concours in the Bordeaux Exhibition in 1907, but then followed war, economic depression and then more war. Like many estates Dauzac was in a state of seemingly permanent decline, and the first hope of a turn around was not seen until 1966, when the estate was purchased by Alain Miailhe, who also part-owned Château Palmer. Alain's tenure, however, was ephemeral. He failed in his attempt to rename the property Lynch-Dauzac, facing opposition from the Casteja family, owners of Château Lynch-Moussas, and in 1978 tax difficulties forced him to sell the property, the new owner being French Moroccan Felix Châtelier. This was the true beginning of Dauzac's renaissance; Châtelier built a new chai, completely renovated the cellars and extensively replanted the vineyards. But Châtelier too eventually sold the estate, this time to Mutuelles d'Assurances des Instituteurs de France (MAIF). This company have owned the château and vineyards since 1988, and have engaged the services of André Lurton, already owner of other notable properties such as Château La Louvière, as manager of the estate since 1992.

Today the Dauzac estate covers 120 hectares in all, of which 50 are planted to vines. This includes a 5 hectare plot which lies outside the Margaux commune boundary but which is vinified at the estate and bottled as Château Labarde, an Haut-Médoc. The 45 hectares in Margaux have a typically deep, gravelly terroir and is planted principally with Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), followed by Merlot (37%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines, planted at a dense 10000 vines/ha on the usual Riparia and 101-14 rootstocks are on the young side, averaging 20 years of age; this is because of Châtelier's extensive planting, but it is another reason why we should expect to see quality at Dauzac improve year on year. Once harvested the fruit is destemmed and crushed, then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, the cap broken up using a patented system. The wines undergo malolactic fermentation and then go into oak for one year before fining with egg white and then bottling. The grand vin is bottled as Château Dauzac, with 23000 cases per annum being typical, and then the second wine is La Bastide Dauzac.

Until very recently I confess I had little tasting experience of Dauzac, hence my referring to it as one of the Médoc's 'lost châteaux'. But with improved quality, brokers and merchants are once again realising the potential of Dauzac. I am certain there are yet more improvement that could be made, both in the vineyard and perhaps in the chai too, but with continued commitment from the Lurton team these wines should continue to climb the ladder of quality. The four recent vintages tasted below are all testament to the new efforts at Dauzac, and although the 2005 is the better of this quartet, it is the success seen in a less highly lauded vintage such as 2004 that is the real fruit of Lurton's dedication. (11/1/07, updated 5/3/08)

Contact details:
Address: Château Dauzac, 1 avenue Georges Johnston, 33460 Labarde
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 25 58 58 (Château Bonnet)
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 74 98 59 (Château Bonnet)
Internet: www.andrelurton.com
GPS: 45.020502, -0.625448

Château Dauzac - Tasting Notes

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Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2010: The assemblage here is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Merlot. This particular barrel sample has a rather bright and crunchy fruit style on the nose, with a somewhat crystalline-fruit character to it, which is surprising given the ripeness and richness of the vintage. A gently polished palate follows this, showing a reserved flesh, with slightly drier and more chewy tannins coming in through the middle, not too forceful but not sitting too well on the lighter style of fruit here either. Indeed, on a second taste, these tannins really dominate the midpalate, giving it a big, chewy style. Rather a bruiser of a Margaux. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeur assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2011)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2009: The blend here is Cabernet Sauvignon 64%, Merlot 36%. Intense and pure fruit on the nose, plum and cherry character, with perfumed floral and dark chocolate nuances. There is a seam of alcohol apparent right at the start, and then a rather soft, fat-fruit profile in the middle, backed up by piles of ripe and slightly chewy tannins. Soft acidity too. That unintegrated alcohol is a note of concern for me, though. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (March 2010)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2008: A smoky, perfumed and gravelly nose here, nicely judged, harmonious and certainly not over-the-top. The palate is soft and dry, with a gentle substance overlying a light tannic backbone and gentle acidity, rather soft and lacking focus in entirety, but there is substance here albeit with an oily edge to it, and there is a little perfume too. Overall rather low-key but in the context of the appellation in this vintage quite a good wine. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2010)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2008: Rather dark fruit character here, with sweet black cherry, in a dense, confit style. An appealing start on the palate, rich and creamy cigar-tinged blackberry fruit, with quite fine tannins, but softer acidity. Overall this is pretty, but rather flash and lacking in structure and substance. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2009)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2007: Rather a sexy nose here, with gritty fruit and new-oak barrel aromas. It is flashy, smoky and potentially seems quite seductive. It is rather warm as well of course, and underneath all this dressing I think I sense a greenness to the fruit as well. The palate is supple and bears a better definition than I expected from the nose. There is a gritty sugar-coated sweetness to the fruits, with a soft and chalky feel to the red fruit character, with soft tannins and moderate acidity. This seems acceptable but nothing more striking than that. From a 2007 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 14.5/20 (November 2011)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2007: This has an attractive perfume, and shows some Margaux typicity I feel, with a perfumed gravel alongside a sweet, black fruit character. A nicely polished style, lightly textured, with a firm, tannic core. A gentle composition, polished and integrated, and there is a little backbone and substance here through the midpalate. Good. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2006: An expressive nose of red fruits, cream and vanilla, with fresh new oak too. A gentle palate, quite appealing, balanced and as fresh as the nose suggested. Good fruit, ripe texture, ripe tannins. This is a lively wine with an interesting and crisp flavour. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2008)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2005: Nicely sweet fruit on the nose here, with a gravelly perfume which I also like. It isn't profound but it is certainly pretty. A good, firm composition on the palate, with attractive red-black fruits with a rather crunchy plum character. Ripe tannins, nicely covered, with good peppery acidity, with a touch of green apple skin. There is a leanness to it but overall I find it very appealing. I think I may have misjudged the wine at the UGC tasting in October 2007, or it was not showing well for some reason; this reminds me much more of the barrel sample I first tasting in November 2006. Very good. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2005: The nose here holds a little harshness, with a macerated fruit character, and a little streak of vanilla ice cream reflecting the recent presence of oak I imagine. The same is found on the palate, which shows a rather bare structure, but fleshes out a little in the glass. On the finish it shows a textured, fruity, mildly grippy character. Not quite as impressive as when tasted en primeur. A little more texture and depth would be preferable, but decent wine nevertheless. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2007)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2005: A barrel sample of this as yet unbottled wine. This fact is very evident on the nose, which has, behind some really rather plush fruit, some obvious barrel notes of toasty oak. Has all the youthful flash and sex appeal of a young and oaky sample, but on the palate there is substance as well as style. A very nice composition, with the right combination of fruit, texture and structure wrapped up in a nicely balanced package. Very good potential here. 16-17+/20 (November 2006)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2004: Some nice toasty oak showing her, and a nice depth to the fruit, which has a fairly appealing, perfumed-stony edge. A moderate texture, perhaps a touch oily, but brightly composed with nice definition, but overall a touch subdued. A touch chalky too, but good grip underneath, and a little vigour. Potentially a good wine, with time. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16+/20 (November 2008)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2004: This has a dense, gravelly, earthy nose, the smoke and nut aromas of the oak have now resolved considerably. There remains some fresh and crunchy fruit. On the palate there is a soft and rounded texture, although some nice grip through the midpalate and finish. It is nicely composed but it doesn't quite have the definition or substance that I would like. Nevertheless, overall this is good. 15+/20 (February 2008)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2004: A smoky, nutty nose, the attractive aromas of a little as yet unresolved oak, with a little perfumed, crunchy, mineral black fruits peeking out from beneath. Really quite stylish, with a mineral character. Attractively composed palate, a mid-weight texture which is very appealing, although perhaps just a little too lean, but with good flavour and nice presence. Overall, a good wine. 15.5+/20 (November 2006)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2004: A good, very typical, mineral-edged perfume on the nose. A leaner style on the palate than some of the other wines, showing some very firm tannins and correct acidity, but not the grace of many of the other wines. Not as finely put together, but good. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 15.5+/20 (October 2006)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2003: A huge and very evocative nose, packed with red and black berries, with a little note of cherry too which is a common theme with this vintage. Deeply rounded, ripe fruit profile. With such initial superficial pleasure the palate seems quite vacuous thereafter, with a huge wall of peppery tannins and insufficient texture to match. Unfocused, and where will all that tannin go? 14+/20 (November 2006)

Château Dauzac (Margaux) 2002: A fresh, crisp, red fruit nose here, rather a crunchy style. I find it somewhat anonymous at the moment, and certainly not quintessential Margaux, although there is an attractive, minerally character coming through. Lean and elegantly styled on the palate, with some naked structure quite apparent. Not enough fruit or texture for me. A lean style that may come good in the cellar, although I would suggest 6-8 years. 14.5+/20 (November 2006)