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Chateau Bouscaut

Although this estate dates back to the 16th Century, it was under the name of Haut Truchon rather than Bouscaut. Nevertheless, its history prior to the 20th Century seems difficult to elucidate, although the estate does seem to have been prospering, success coming through its wine I think. There was a vineyard here during the 18th Century, as illustrated on the maps of the time, most notably the famous and fabulously detailed maps made by the Cassini family and published at the turn of the century. And there was sufficient wealth to erect a fine chateau, which over the ensuing years was augmented with a fat and round tower at one end, as well as some impressive cellars. It was only these latter buildings that survived a devastating fire which swept through the residence in 1960, an event which led to the complete reconstruction of the building in a form true to the original design.

Indeed, it was only during the 20th Century that Bouscaut developed any strong reputation, turning out some good wines in the period between the two World Wars. At this time the owners acquired the neighbouring Chateau Valoux, which remains under the same ownership as Bouscaut today, and it was also around this time that many of the aforementioned work was carried out on the chateau. The wines continued to be well received, and the estate was one of a number included in the Graves classification of 1959. At this time the estate was under the tenure of Victor Place, although once he had restored the charred remains to their former glory he sold the property, in 1968, to a group of American investors, under the name of Domaine Wohlstetter-Sloan. Their period in charge was brief, little more than a decade, although there was no shortage of interest and investment to build on the work of Victor Place. There was more renovation at the chateau and in the vineyard, supervised by the Haut-Brion led by régisseur Jean Delmas, whose services were engaged by the new owners. In 1979 the American sold up, and the property was acquired by Lucien Lurton.

The Lurton family remain at Bouscaut to this day, although Lucien ceded control to his daughter in 1992, and she was joined by her husband Laurent Coglombes in 1997. Under the Lurtons there has been continued development of the estate. A new circular vat room was added to the estate in 1990, the local portfolio was again augmented in 1999 with the acquisition of nearby Chateau Lamothe-Bouscaut, and another new fermentation room - this time for new cement tanks - was inaugurated in 2002.

The Bouscaut vineyard consists of clay and gravelly soil over limestone rock, and there are 54 hectares planted to vines. The majority of the vines are red, covering 47 hectares, and these are 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. The remaining 7 hectares are divided equally between Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Overall the vines, which are planted on Riparia, 3309, 101-14, 420A and Fercal (all the usual culprits) rootstocks at a density of 7200 vines/ha, have an average age approaching 40 years - although some have more than one hundred years under their belt. The harvest is manual into small baskets, with temperature controlled fermentation (24 to 28ºC) in stainless steel and cement vats for the reds, and a cooler ferment (18 to 22ºC) in oak barrels - 50% new - for the whites. The reds will see up to 18 months in oak, the whites up to a year with regular bâtonnage. The grand vin is Chateau Bouscaut, 8000 cases of the red and 2000 cases of the white, and there is a second wine Les Chênes de Bouscaut (known as La Flamme de Bouscaut until the 2004 vintage) and as already mentioned the wines of the associated Valoux and Lamothe-Bouscaut estate.

Bouscaut My recent limited experiences of the wine of this estate have largely been positive. Not stunning, perhaps, although the white 2006 showed very well when I assessed the wine in Bordeaux in April 2008. Otherwise I think these are solid wines, attractive if not imbued with great finesse or lift. But they certainly do not merit great criticism. This apparently wasn't the case with the 1999 vintage, one I have not tasted, which received a damning 79-82 score from Parker. The Lurton's response, however, earned them far more publicity than any score, low or high, could possibly hope to achieve, as they proceeded to run an ad campaign poking fun at Parker and his low opinion of their bon vin de terroir. It was a brave and fun approach to one person's opinion of your wine, but the fact that such a response was felt to be justified clearly demonstrated the power held by this one person over the Bordeaux market. Needled, Parker's response was damning; "Given the wine Bouscaut has made, I would resort to humor, too, if it helped to sell the wine." Fortunately for me, recently assessed vintages seem to be worthy of a little more praise than the 1999 seems to have garnered, and I look forward to trying more vintages in the future. (6/6/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Bouscaut, 33140 Cadaujac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 83 12 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 83 12 21
Internet: www.chateau-bouscaut.com

Chateau Bouscaut - Tasting Notes

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2006

Chateau Bouscaut Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Super bright fruit on the nose here, a delicious and exuberant style, certainly ripe although with a herby character. Fleshy and flavoursome on the palate, full of structure and punch, with plenty of freshening acidity. Full of impact, this is impressive stuff which should age well. From a tasting of 2006 white Graves. 17-17.5+/20

Chateau Bouscaut Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: SB 55%, Sem 45%. Barrel fermented in 50% new barrels, 50% one year-old barrels. It then goes into steel until bottling. This vintage has a lovely clean nose, slightly creamy but full of exuberant citrus fruit; lively, floral and with good direction. A well formed palate, ripe and rounded, very slightly powdery but showing a fine perfume. Full of grip. This is an impressive over-performance and perhaps reflects the excellent vintage for white Graves. 17+/20 (February 2008)

2005

Chateau Bouscaut Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This has a powerful, grapefruit, leafy, greengagey purity, with just a little buttercream richness. It has an appealing style, with a touch of fatness, and a rather soft midpalate. It is rounded, with a soft and subtle backbone of acidity. This reflects the warmth of the vintage no doubt, and I would prefer it if it was a little more prominent. Nice minerally depth and finish though. Good style. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Bouscaut (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This has a much richer nose than the 2004, tasted alongside. It has a denser, riper character, and is showing good creamy fruit. There are notes of smoke and liquorice. The palate has a nice, direct, well-formed style, quite firm, with some notes of pepper and spice. Then there is a wonderful flourish of flavour on the finish. This has a very attractive style. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Chateau Bouscaut (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: This is appealing, crisp and crunchy. One the palate it is plump and rounded, with a nice, slightly bitter grip and a gentle, tannic structure. A firm acid backbone. This has quite some appeal, and there is a lot of grip on the finish. Good. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau Bouscaut Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: This is very grassy on the nose, with plenty of nettly, green pepper aromas; obviously the Sauvignon Blanc is dominating the wine at present, although I believe the proportions are roughly equal. Lacks great impact on the palate, but is quite fresh with decent acidity. Nettly flavour, like the nose. Good. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 15/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Bouscaut (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: A good colour, and an appealing nose, showing perhaps slightly lean liquorice fruit, with a blackcurrant and blackberry character. It has a fresh aspect that I admire, and depth too. A nice style on the palate, lean and reserved, with a firm core of fruit, tinged with that liquorice again. A nice style, carrying a light and fresh character, with complex notes of spiced orange and a good savoury finish. Vivacious rather than rich. 16/20 (February 2008)