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The Salons of Angers, Day 3

As I have alluded in some of my previous posts, the Salon des Vins de Loire is not seen as a ‘hip’ tasting to go to by a great number of Loire fans. For many buyers of Loire wines, the organic, biodynamic and natural wines to be found at the various parallel salons hold more appeal.

Nevertheless, after spending time at these other salons, I spent today at the Salon proper, and had the best day of tasting since I arrived here. First and foremost this reflects the quality of the wines, but there is more to it than that. The Salon proper is held in a large exhibition hall, well-lit and airy, so unlike the dungeon-like tasting environment of Renaissance and Dive Bouteille I could actually see what I was tasting, and I could see the notes I was writing. Second, it wasn’t like tasting in a sardine can; while the Salon proper was definitely busier than expected today (especially on popular stands such as François Chidaine, Luneau-Papin and so on) I could still move about. I could find somewhere to perch my laptop. I could taste without someone breathing/talking/laughing directly into my left lughole, elbowing me in the ribs, and continually knocking into me or the camera slung over my shoulder. In addition, with less pressure on space and time, I could chat more with the vignerons. I had a good chat with Vincent Carême about the 2015 vintage, with Lionel Gosseaume about the technicalities of carbonic maceration, with Bernard Fouquet about balance and acidity in Vouvray, and so on.

Vincent Carême

At this point I was going to write something more about the high quality of many of the wines I tasted, from 2014 and 2015 in particular, but let me just continue my digression. Something came to me as I tasted with Vincent Carême (pictured above, when I visited in 2014) today. For a long time there has been a top tier in Vouvray that comprised four domaines; Huet, Foreau, Champalou and Fouquet. Personally I have long held the belief that this top tier actually had a mezzanine level (stick with me on this); on the upper level of the mezzanine are Foreau, who gives us moments of breathtaking brilliance in some cuvées, and some vintages, and Huet, a domaine which gives us supreme wines but also great consistency. It is rare that you find a disappointing wine from Huet; one exception was the 2012 vintage, which I didn’t like, I said so and got banned from tasting at the domaine as a result. As I have never spoken to Sarah Hwang since as far as I know this ban still stands. Nevertheless, I have been invited to taste with Jean-Bernard Berthomé at the Renaissance tasting (and I have occasionally purchased wines to taste as well), so I know the Huet 2013s were very good for a difficult vintage (there was hail), and the two 2014s I tasted this weekend were delightful, really very good indeed, top tier stuff. Also top tier, but off the mezzanine, are Fouquet and Champalou, both turning out delightful wines with an identifiable house style. This top tier position was really secured with the 1989 and 1990 vintages, so not much has changed in over 25 years.

Perhaps you can see where I am going with this. I have long liked the wines of Vincent Carême, but tasting his 2014s and a couple of 2015 barrel samples today they easily ranked alongside those of Bernard Fouquet. It is a few days since I tasted the Huet 2014s, but I think a comparison between the two, based solely on quality, would also be valid. Neither the Champalou family nor Foreau come to the Salon, but if Catherine pops up on the Terra Vitis stand I will take a look at her wines too. Whatever happens, if the quality of the 2014s and 2015s chez Carême is maintained through subsequent vintages, this domaine deserves a place on the top tier (lower mezzanine level!) at least. If you feel disinclined towards this sentiment (nobody likes change, not least when suggested by an insignificant ‘blogger’ such as myself) do try to taste their 2014s when they come onto the market. They are simply stunning, precise, defined wines, which have not only textured confidence but also a fine acid frame and a seam of minerality that has lifted them up a level I think. Basically, they’re really top tier.

As noted Vincent’s 2015s are also really good, as are those 2015s I have tasted from François Crochet, Romain Guiberteau, Philippe Alliet, Luneau-Papin, Vincent Caillé and quite a few others. Today (Tuesday) I will be looking to reinforce these first impressions with more tastes of 2015 and 2014.

The Salons of Angers, Day 2

There is an episode in series 2 of Father Ted (entitled ‘New Jack City’ for the FT geeks) in which Father Jack develops an advanced case of Hairy Hands Syndrome (stage 6, a fairly advanced case). There was, unless I am mistaken, no known cause or cure, and the only solution was to ship Father Jack off to St Clabbert’s Hospital for (usually elderly) wayward priests, otherwise known as ‘Jurassic Park’.

Of course Father Ted was filmed twenty years ago, and more recent medical research has since firmly linked Jack’s affliction with the consumption of too much ‘natural’ wine (which was of course very popular on Craggy Island during the 1990s). This explains why, after a day immersed in the world of organic, biodynamic, ‘natural’, zero-sulphur and similar wines the backs of my hands have taken on an appearance that no werewolf would be ashamed off. I have also developed a very glazed, faraway expression. I reckon I am at stage 3, at the very least.

Tessa Laroche

In truth I tasted some really super wines today, perhaps not always in the most obvious quarters. The wines of Tessa Laroche (pictured above) of Domaine aux Moines were particularly noteworthy, quite different to the rather solid and very traditional style (which needed at least a decade to show any interest) I recall from four of five years ago. Now they have a very pure and pointed precision, and she has been busy replanting too, so the domaine seems very much on the up. I also tasted at a number of domaines new to me, although I didn’t discover any really exciting new names (here’s hoping that comes on another day). I got some more chat about 2015 too, a vintage that is looking really good in most places. It is a rich vintage, for those who enjoy acidity perhaps a bit too rich in some parts of the valley. I will keep plugging away at this and will write a full vintage report (with a slightly different look to it this year) once I return.

In the evening I headed over to the Brasserie de la Gare for a bite to eat. I have had some very decent meals in this brasserie before now, although I am aware some wouldn’t touch it with a bargepole. I thought my meal (foie gras then ris de veau) was really very decent, and certainly value for money compared to every dining experience I can recall in Edinburgh recently, but the service was of Fawlty Towers standard. The bulles (Pithon-Paillé Crémant de Loire) were too warm, the white (Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2014) was fine (a good job too as François was sitting on the next table) but the red (Domaine de Bablut Anjou-Villages Petra Alba 2009) was too cold, and the latter bottle arrived almost as we finished our main course. Everything that we wanted (bread, a carafe of water, more bread, the red wine, yet more bread) we had to ask for at least three times, it was ages before anything happened and also ages between courses, the wrong wine was brought to start with, the waiter had to come back to check the identity of the third wine even though we had asked for it twice already, and so on. All I can say is that Basil would have been proud. I believe they have rooms, so I am tempted to stay here next year so I can go to the window, complain about the lack of a sea view, and see if I get a Serengeti-wildebeest-related response.

Today (Monday), it’s on with the Salon proper. Watch out Luneau-Papin, François Chidaine, Pithon-Paillé, François Pinon and Domaine Vacheron, I am heading your way!

The Salons of Angers, Day 1

When I was packing for this trip I distinctly recall looking at my umbrella and deciding against it; I always try to travel light, with hand luggage only, and that was the last thing I wanted to be squeezing into my luggage. Of course, on Saturday it rained all day, the intensity varying from moderate to heavy (never light!). I started the day a soggy taster.

I kicked off at the Renaissance tasting, which felt much quieter than it did last year. Or indeed any other year. It usually becomes a bit of a scrum, elbow-room only, but it felt more relaxed today. Possibly this is because I left at 2pm, and maybe it just got really busy later on. Alternatively, one exposant whispered in my ear that there were thirty fewer exhibitors this year (15 missing from the Loire, 15 from elsewhere) but scanning the list of adherents I couldn’t figure out who might be missing, so I am not sure if this is right.

Emmanuel Ogereau

After tasting with the likes of Richard Leroy, Virginie Joly, Laura Semeria and numerous others I left and headed out to Domaine de la Bergerie for a tasting and dinner. First up was Emmanuel Ogereau (pictured), who is doing lots of exciting things now that he is increasingly taking the reins from his father Vincent. There was a more minerally style to the wines, several new cuvées, even new labels (about time too). Then came René Papin, Claude’s son, with all his wines from the 2014 vintage, and here there were also lots of exciting things. Again, I sensed a little more minerally definition in some of the wines, especially the two Anjou Blanc cuvées, although minerality is nothing new chez Papin of course.

We finished up with the wines of Yves Guégniard, from a variety of years, including two super vintages of Evanescence, his 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, in 2011 and 2014. Like Emmanuel though Yves also showed one or two reds from 2013 which, for a washout vintage, were really impressive. Much better than most of the 2013 Bordeaux I tasted not that long ago. For a start the wines were not completely dried out by oak. After the tasting we finished up with dinner in La Table de la Bergerie; chef David Guitton turned out a pretty fabulous meal which we washed down with a range of older vintages from the three domaines.

I had a lot of chat about the 2015 vintage during the day and so far everyone I have spoken to is delighted with it. There a lot of good indicators for the vintage, which (where I have tasted) has a rich and ripe style. I will taste more today (Sunday) though.

To the Salon! (2016 Edition)

The coldest place in the world is commonly (or should I say probably) thought to be somewhere in Antarctica, a windswept white desert of sub-zero temperatures. Those who pass through Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport en route to the annual Salon des Vins de Loire each year, however, know different. The coldest place in the world is actually near the end of platform 6 in the TGV railway station buried deep in the bowels of Terminal 2D. I know. I hung around there for two and a half hours yesterday waiting for my train down to Angers.

Yes, it’s time for the first of this year’s trips to the Loire Valley to get to grips with the latest vintage, taste all (well, some) of the newest releases, and to chew the cud with more Ligérian vignerons than you could shake an icicle at. Today (Saturday) I will be off to the Renaissance tasting to see Nicolas Joly’s and Mark Angeli’s jolly band of organic, biodynamic and full-blown ‘natural’ adherents. I will taste as widely as I can, but high points of the tasting are often Richard Leroy (pictured) and Eric Nicolas (I get in here early before the crowds arrive), although there are always dozens of other notable domaines. Then I will follow this up with a trip out to see Claude Papin, Yves Guégniard and Vincent Ogereau this evening, for a tasting and maybe a bite to eat.

Richard Leroy

On Sunday there is the option of other tastings besides the Renaissance, and then from Monday I will be attending the Salon proper. I know many visitors to the region at this time of year, both journalists and buyers, now avoid the Salon altogether and restrict themselves just to the parallel tastings (Renaissance in Angers, Dive Bouteille in Saumur, Thierry Puzelat’s Les Pénitents and so on) but I prefer to taste and report as widely as possible. I want to keep a foot in the main flow of the Loire as well as its very dynamic organic and biodynamic tributaries. Besides, the Salon des Vins de Loire now incorporates the Levée de la Loire group, and a Demeter tasting too, so there is plenty there that appeals. I also don’t believe in choosing wines to taste or drink according to winemaking dogma; you cut yourself off from experiencing a lot of super wines doing that. There are great wines in both camps (and there is rubbish in both as well).

Anyway, before I get started with a rambling rant on this issue, back to the intended point of this post, which is to make subscribers aware that I am currently in the Loire Valley, and there will be no behind-paywall updates until I return to the UK later in the week. There simply isn’t time, when tasting all day until 7pm, then following up with other tastings or dinners in the evenings, to be writing daily updates as well. I will, however, post brief daily reports from the Salon just so that everybody can be sure I am working hard. And there is no need for concern over potential frostbite resulting from the very low temperatures endured on platform 6; this is my ninth year at the Salon des Vins de Loire (I’m expecting the organisers to throw a party next year), and I learnt long ago to always pack an extra sweater and a woolly hat.

Muscadet: Melon or Colombard?

A couple of years ago I spent a couple of hours at the Maison des Vins de Nantes learning about the business of Muscadet. It was a hair-raising couple of hours, during which my eyes were opened to the potential hardships of life as a vigneron in Muscadet. At the time the wine was selling for €120 per hectolitre, but only a year or two before, during the latest in what seemed like a long line of Muscadet crises, the price had dipped as low as €50 per hectolitre. To save you the maths, that works out as 38 cents per bottle. No wonder bankruptcy was rife, and after the disastrously frosty vintage of 2008 the vineyard area fell from 13,000 to 8,000 hectares in the space of just a few years as dozens of winemakers simply threw in the towel.

A number of projects had been mooted as a solution. Nobody mentioned the crus communaux, even though to me that has always seemed to be the best way up from here. Famous wine regions such as Chablis and the Côte d’Or feed off the fame of their grands crus, and there is no reason why Muscadet shouldn’t do the same. Clisson and Gorges for the weekend, basic Muscadet during the week. Instead, there were plans to promote earlier harvesting to keep the aromatic profile in the wine (this didn’t make much sense to me), to offer primeur bottlings (fair enough, this could be fun, and that is what entry-level Muscadet is for), and to experiment with different grape varieties in the vineyard. The négociants in particular were pushing for Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Colombard in the vineyard.

Crazy, I thought. That will never happen. I shouldn’t have been so complacent. The move to insert 10-15% Colombard into the appellation regulations has continued. In the past few months the local syndicat, backed by influential négociants, have both come out in vocal support of the plan. That, as far as I can see, only leaves quality-minded independent growers standing in the way of this bastardisation of the appellation. They appear to be led by Jo Landron (pictured below), even if just in spirit .

Muscadet: Melon or Colombard?

Here’s the way I see Muscadet. It is not just a wine, but a fascinating and complex vineyard region, with a great diversity of interesting terroirs. There will always be generic wines and there may be all sorts of plans required to make this sector more economically viable, but the way to protect the entire region against future crises is to lift its reputation as a whole, pulling from the top, with the continued creation of the crus communaux. Just as Valmur and Vaudésir lift the image of Chablis, and Chambertin and Montrachet lift the image of red and white Burgundy, the same can be achieved in Muscadet. These top wines are aspirational, both for drinkers and for vignerons. As the true quality of these crus are recognised all the hard-working vignerons turning out deliciously vibrant entry-level Muscadet will benefit, as drinkers will be more open to buying these bottles. More people will also wake up to how well these wines work with food.

The way out of the crisis is not to make these entry-level wines even more anonymous by blending in easy-going international varieties such as Colombard to sweeten things up. This will only lead to a loss of identity. Muscadet used to be seen as a bit of a joke. Through the continued efforts of Bonnet-Huteau, Günther-Chéreau,Bruno Cormerais, Domaine de l’Ecu, Vincent Caillé, Domaine du Haut Bourg, Domaine des Herbauges, Jo Landron, Famille Lieubeau, Pierre Luneau-Papin, Marc Ollivier and team, Domaine Poiron-Dabin, Marc Pesnot and Christelle Guibert (and quite a few others) this image is gradually sliding into obscurity. If Austrian wine can be taken seriously (remember anti-freeze?), so can Muscadet. The addition of Colombard will only lead to a new dumbing-down of this newly polished image, as well as increased confusion for consumers.

Further information (in French): Le Parisien, L’Hebdo

Folding Hill Pinot Noir Orchard Block 2012

I really enjoy tasting the latest from Folding Hill, firstly because they are classic examples of the Central Otago style, which we could consider today an essential benchmark for understanding what Pinot Noir is capable of. For me, establishing some sort of taste memory for a wine such as this is vital when I come to taste Pinot Noir from Sancerre, Cheverny, the Auvergne (and even the occasional Burgundy) and so on. Secondly, the intrinsic quality here seems to me to be very high, with pure fruit, fresh acidity and confident texture; these aren’t difficult wines to taste! And thirdly because proprietor Tim Kerruish is from my neck of the woods, and even went to the same university as I did. He ended up a wine celebrity in beautiful New Zealand, while I ended up……well, let’s not go there.

Folding Hill Pinot Noir Orchard Block 2012

This is a small-scale operation, with a tiny production from just 4 hectares of vines. The winemaking is currently outsourced, but all the fruit is home-grown and hand-picked. It is 100% destemmed and fermented in small steel vats, before spending 18 to 20 months in oak. The wines are unfiltered and unfined.

Folding Hill Pinot Noir Orchard Block (Bendigo, Central Otago) 2012: Bottled under DIAM cork. In the glass this is a dark, richly pigmented wine, but there is still a fine translucency to it. It has a fascinating nose, brimming with dark fruits, with a lightly curranty character which I like, reminiscent of dried damson skins, but there’s a rich, sweet confidence as well. Some of it seems to be oak-derived, with touches of cocoa and cigar smoke, some new barrel spice giving it a sweeter edge. The palate is sweetly ripe, textured, peppery and spicy fruit, with damson skins, fresh and vibrant acids here, but with a vinous texture. An attractive, supple, very slick and yet energetic style, with lots of polish. Great potential here. 17.5/20 (January 2012)

Disclosure: This bottle was a received unsolicited sample.

Exploring Sherry #15: Bodegas Hidaldo Oloroso Faraon

Back into the Sherry seat now, with a look at this wine from Bodegas Hidalgo. Every Sherry drinker (and some non-drinkers too I suspect) knows La Gitana, one of the best known Sherry brands in existence, with its instantly recognisable gypsy label. Less widely appreciated, I suspect, are the other wines in the premium range from Hidalgo. They have similar branding, but they can’t match La Gitana’s ubiquity (it accounts for 70% of Hidalgo’s production).

Bodegas Hidalgo is a long-established bodegas, having been founded in 1792 by José Pantaleón Hidalgo, who hailed from Santander in northern Spain (much closer to Rioja than to Jerez). Six generations later the business remains in his family’s hands, and his descendents have about 170 organically-managed hectares in the Balbaína and Miraflores vineyards.

Bodegas Hidaldo Oloroso Faraon

La Gitana is a gypsy woman, whereas Faraon is essentially a patriarch, the male head of a family or gypsy clan. The oloroso so named comes from a solera where it is aged for seven years (at least) before bottling.

In the glass the Bodegas Hidalgo Oloroso Faraon shows a golden, toasty-caramel hue, with a faint but broad green tinge at the rim. It has a very classic nose, showing a faintly oxidised oloroso character, with a touch of dusty-dry baked earth, baked orange, dried fruits, walnut wood and clove spice. There is a rather full presence on the palate, a fairly substantial wine here, showing lots of impact but also a cutting energy to it, with plenty of tingling, peppery, spicy sensations around the edges. It feels quite polished, firm and robust rather than elegant or silky, but still a very full, warm, pleasing style, and it has length too. Overall, good. 16/20 (January 2016)

Winedoctor 2015 Disclosures

Is there any more eagerly awaited blog post than my annual disclosure statement? Well, to be honest, the answer is probably yes. But I will carry on regardless.

Independence and transparency is important. On independence I maintain my position that wine writers should always avoid conflicts of interest, write for their subscribers or readers and not the producers or winemakers, and avoid being duplicitous or even being ‘economical with the truth’ at all times. I also believe to be credible writers should avoid being sucked into the wine marketing machine, a big risk when the region you are writing about is wealthy and well-positioned to encourage that sort of behaviour through boozy lunches and pouring lots of old vintages.

On these issues, relating to independence, I have not shifted, but where I have shifted is on the issue of transparency. I think today that this is more important than ever. This is because to write about wine in an informative manner it is pointless trying to cut yourself off from the people who make it. Writers have to interact with producers (importantly, in the region the wine is made), and that can incur costs, from travel, accommodation and dining. Not boozy lunches or parties, just the costs of living. Rather than trying to cut this cord, feedback given to me in 2015 is that readers seem to value transparency on such matters more than any attempts to reduce the interaction/dependency to zero. I found that really interesting and something of a surprise.

Will this little nugget encourage others to be more transparent about their wine writing work? Who knows. It is no doubt a daunting thought, to bite the disclosure bullet. While I ponder that, here are the details of my disclosures for 2015:

Salon des Vins de Loire: The Salon has been struggling in recent years, and contemporaneously with this change InterLoire has cut funding for visiting journalists. No formal funding was received. It’s a sign of the times. I did accept two dinner invitations though, one with Loire courtier Charles Sydney, and one from new association Loire Latitude. In the interests of transparency, this latter group includes Pierre Luneau-Papin, Le Rocher des Violettes, Domaine Grosbois, Henry Pellé and Le Clos des Quarterons. Other expenses I met myself (see below).
Bordeaux primeurs: I stayed in Bordeaux for seven nights, and I accepted accommodation for some of these. I began with one night in Château des Vigiers, and I also had four nights uncatered accommodation in Château Preuillac, courtesy of négociant Yvon Mau. The night at Vigiers (a bit off the beaten track) was to facilitate attendance at a tasting of Château L’Église-Clinet, held at Château Thénac, in Bergerac. I also accepted dinner at Château Thénac, and stopped in at Château Sociando-Mallet to take advantage of their buffet lunch. Other expenses I met myself (see below).
Loire Valley, Saumur & beyond: I covered most costs for my trip to the Loire Valley in June myself (see below), but I did accept two nights accommodation from a generic body, the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre.
Bordeaux Harvest Visit: I visited in October to taste 2013s, and also to learn about the 2015 vintage. I accepted accommodation in Château Le Pape for three nights, Château Clément-Pichon for one night, and Château La Dauphine for three nights. I accepted three dinner invitations, from Château Haut-Bailly, Vignobles Fayat and Château La Dauphine. I also attended an end-of-harvest lunch with Jonathan Maltus, and on another day had lunch after tasting at Château Le Gay. Other expenses I met myself (see below).
Gifts received: A case of wine from Château Brown was received as a token of gratitude for having organised half of the Oaked Sauvignon Blanc tasting. The highlight of the year, however, was the receipt of my ‘Château Teyssier 2015 Harvest’ t-shirt. In order to confuse my neighbours I wear this when I go out blackberry picking.
Samples received: Only a small number of wine samples were received, where the wines have been written up this has been declared. Most wines written up on Winedoctor are encountered at open tastings, or purchased.

This concludes the ‘support received’ section of my 2015 disclosures report. I try to keep support received to a minimum, and where taken I prefer more ‘generic’ support from associations, négociants or regional bodies nevertheless (in Bordeaux in particular) some suport received during 2015, in the form of dinners and accommodation, did relate to individual châteaux. Where appropriate, such as at Château Clément-Pichon, this has also been disclosed on relevant reports and profiles.

Winedoctor 2015 Disclosures

As is customary, I also like to balance this information with a report on which tastings and trips have been funded by me, or to be more precise by my subscribers.

Angers, Salon: All travel and accommodation expenses for the Salon des Vins de Loire were met by me; this included flights, rail fare in France, six nights accommodation in Angers and subsistence on all nights but two.
Loire Valley, Saumur & beyond: In June I spent three days visiting in Savennières, Saumur and Sancerre, checking out Clos Rougeard and other top domaines. I covered most of the costs myself; this included flights to Paris, car hire, accommodation in Saumur and all subsistence costs, not to mention the fine from the car hire company for exceeding the agreed mileage on a short rental. That’s the last time I forget to read the Europcar small print.
Loire Valley, More Saumur: In July I returned to the Loire for the third time in 2015. I spent a week based in Parnay. I covered all costs, including flights to Paris, car hire, accommodation in Saumur and all subsistence costs myself. No excess-mileage fine this time, but a speeding ticket instead, plus the car hire firm’s ‘handling fee’ for shopping me to the French traffic FBI. I really am going off Europcar now.
Portugal: My only non-Loire-non-Bordeaux trip of the year, I spent the best part of two weeks checking out Portuguese wine. There is a single-variety revolution in Vinho Verde that is very exciting, with some delicious wines – almost as good as Muscadet in some cases. I covered all costs, including flights, accommodation, car hire and subsistence myself.
Bordeaux, Primeurs: I met my travel costs myself; this includes transport to airport, flights to Bordeaux, and hire car for eight days. I paid for two nights in a budget hotel in Libourne, previously endorsed by Neal Martin. I paid for all my own subsistence except for the lunches and dinner described above.
Bordeaux Harvest Visit: For this eight-day trip to Bordeux I met my travel costs myself; this included transport to airport, flights to Bordeaux, and hire car for eight days. I accepted assistance with accommodation. I was hosted at dinner three times, but paid for the remainder of my subsistence myself.
London, Bordeaux Grand Cru Classé tasting: I was already in London judging at the Decanter World Wine Awards, and took a day out of my judging schedule to attend this. I thus covered all my own travel costs. I also had dinner at Terroirs with Daniel Primack, UK Zalto rep. We split the bill, but I did come away from the evening one Zalto wine glass better off, which if you believe in karma at least makes up for that speeding ticket earlier in the year.
Other London tastings: These were numerous, and included the Bordeaux Index 2005 tasting, the Loire Benchmark tasting, the Real Wine Fair, the Union des Grands Crus tasting of the 2013 vintage at Covent Garden, the Oaked Sauvignon Blanc tasting (where I was both organiser and taster) and the IMW Bordeaux tasting of the 2011 vintage. In each case I paid for my entry fee where applicable, and flights and transfers. On most occasions I also benefited from a free lunch (which I guess disproves the relevant adage). The one exception was the IMW tasting where lunch is not provided, so I scoffed a cheese sandwich I had cunningly secreted in my rucksack; it went surprisingly well with 2011 Lafite-Rothschild.
Chester, High Time with Haut Brion: I covered my own costs for this Friday-evening tasting of wines from Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, including parking, entry fee, rail fares and the cost of an over-priced hotel room in Chester city centre. I was back in Edinburgh the next morning before any thought of a free lunch even entered my head.

That’s all for now. I am anticipating many more great tastings in 2016, as the 2015 vintage holds much promise in both Bordeaux (pictured above – 2015 budbreak in April) and the Loire Valley. Thanks to all my subscribers for making all of the above possible.

Have a Happy New Year!

And so 2015 draws to a close….

It has been a great year for Winedoctor, now with over one thousand subscribers. As far as updates go, I have written more words during 2015, updated more profiles, added more new tasting notes, written more new profiles, and written more on the latest Loire and Bordeaux vintages (as well as some older vintages) than ever before. I really enjoyed looking back through my ten Wine in Context posts – it reminded me what a super twelve months 2015 gave me. Thanks to all my subscribers for making it possible, and for giving me the reason to do it all.

I would count up all my words, posts and tasting notes as proof of how Winedoctor has grown, but in all honesty I have better things to do – right now I can hear corks popping, and I don’t have a glass in my hand yet. Shocking, I know.

I will take New Year’s Day off (I took Christmas Day off too – I am such a sloth!), but normal updates will resume January 2nd. I have to start again soon, I have a lot of updates, articles and reports piling up. And there is my annual disclosure statement, providing full transparency on support received throughout the year, to pull together as well – I wouldn’t want to forget that, especially as I know some out there look forward to it with baited breath and more than a hint of trembling anticipation.

I am looking forward to getting to grips with the 2015 vintage, both from the Loire and Bordeaux, in the next few months. Both sound very promising. I will start with the Loire, with my first tasting planned for January, then it is off to the Salon des Vins de Loire in February.

For now though, it is time to chill out with family and fizzy fermented juice. My best wishes to all for your New Year’s Eve celebrations, and all the best for 2016.

Wine in Context #1: Clos Rougeard

I had originally planned to publish this yesterday morning, but with the news of the death of Charly Foucault breaking it just didn’t feel right. Now, as the news has sunk in, it feels inappropriate not to publish it…..

Looking back over 2015, at my favourite wine-related moments of the year, whether they be best bottles, best wine dinners, best tastings or otherwise, there was one visit-and-tasting-combined which was my obvious number-one choice for the year. In June 2015 I visited Clos Rougeard, and enjoyed a fantastic tasting in their new cellars with Nady Foucault (pictured below). It was the runaway highlight of the year.

Some visits disappoint, the wines or even the mood of the proprietor perhaps serving to dampen the experience in some way. Some are good, where everything goes well, and while no long-term memories are formed the wines are fine and the write up is appropriately positive. Some visits, though, are truly great, and this visit to Clos Rougeard certainly fits into this category. After descending three levels into the new Foucault cellars I spent the best part of three hours (I think – I wasn’t exactly clock-watching) in the cool and dimly-lit subterranean palace, tasting barrel samples and bottled wines, from all manner of vintages, most recent, one or two a little older.

Clos Rougeard

What made the visit such an experience was firstly the quality of the wines. I have tasted and drunk (mostly the latter, to be honest) a fair amount of Clos Rougeard over the years, and while the wines are often exemplary, every domaine has its ups and downs. But the wines tasted on this occasion were just breathtaking. Great vintages helped, because I tasted several bottles and samples from 2010, 2011 and 2014, all very favourable years. Tasting the different components in 2014, from barrel, also helped lift the experience. The barrel components of 2014 Le Bourg, for example, were just tear-jerkingly complex and intricately woven. I came away with the feeling that, regardless of the prices asked these days, I had to have some of those wines. That doesn’t happen that often these days, even at some very famous addresses (most that I am thinking of here are in Bordeaux, as it happens).

It wasn’t just the wine though; Nady proved himself a congenial host. For all the distance Nady and his late-brother (it feels strange writing that) Charly put between themselves and those that loved their wines, here in his presence it was clear he had the ability to charm. He clearly loved leading a tasting, and he clearly enjoyed the opportunities for humour it presented. He may appear to be a wiry, athletic, suffer-no-nonsense individual, but he clearly enjoys a joke as much as the next guy, and despite his ‘no pictures’ reputation, he also enjoyes playing the fool for the camera when it appears (even if all my pictures are along more serious lines!).

Clos Rougeard

This was a tasting that filled my head with scents, sounds, tastes, experiences and ultimately memories, thanks to Nady’s hospitality and their wines. Charly wasn’t there of course – there was nothing unusual in that though. It was a couple of months later that I learnt he was ill. And just a week or two after that – yesterday in fact – that I learnt of his passing. It means my memory of this tasting is now tinged with sadness, but nothing like the sadness that must exist in Chacé and Chavignol today. My condolences to Charly’s wife Françoise, their son Antoine of Domaine du Collier, brother Nady and sister-in-law Anne Vatan of Clos la Néore.

This post concludes my Wine in Context review of 2015. If you are new to Wine in Context, a glance at Wine in Context #10: Return to Thieuley might be helpful. If you want to contribute, feel free to add your favourite moment in the comments below – or if you have a longer report from a great wine dinner, wine trip, wine tasting or other wine moment during 2015 you can email it to me, and I can host it on the blog for you.