The Salons of Angers, Day 3
As I have alluded in some of my previous posts, the Salon des Vins de Loire is not seen as a ‘hip’ tasting to go to by a great number of Loire fans. For many buyers of Loire wines, the organic, biodynamic and natural wines to be found at the various parallel salons hold more appeal.
Nevertheless, after spending time at these other salons, I spent today at the Salon proper, and had the best day of tasting since I arrived here. First and foremost this reflects the quality of the wines, but there is more to it than that. The Salon proper is held in a large exhibition hall, well-lit and airy, so unlike the dungeon-like tasting environment of Renaissance and Dive Bouteille I could actually see what I was tasting, and I could see the notes I was writing. Second, it wasn’t like tasting in a sardine can; while the Salon proper was definitely busier than expected today (especially on popular stands such as François Chidaine, Luneau-Papin and so on) I could still move about. I could find somewhere to perch my laptop. I could taste without someone breathing/talking/laughing directly into my left lughole, elbowing me in the ribs, and continually knocking into me or the camera slung over my shoulder. In addition, with less pressure on space and time, I could chat more with the vignerons. I had a good chat with Vincent Carême about the 2015 vintage, with Lionel Gosseaume about the technicalities of carbonic maceration, with Bernard Fouquet about balance and acidity in Vouvray, and so on.
At this point I was going to write something more about the high quality of many of the wines I tasted, from 2014 and 2015 in particular, but let me just continue my digression. Something came to me as I tasted with Vincent Carême (pictured above, when I visited in 2014) today. For a long time there has been a top tier in Vouvray that comprised four domaines; Huet, Foreau, Champalou and Fouquet. Personally I have long held the belief that this top tier actually had a mezzanine level (stick with me on this); on the upper level of the mezzanine are Foreau, who gives us moments of breathtaking brilliance in some cuvées, and some vintages, and Huet, a domaine which gives us supreme wines but also great consistency. It is rare that you find a disappointing wine from Huet; one exception was the 2012 vintage, which I didn’t like, I said so and got banned from tasting at the domaine as a result. As I have never spoken to Sarah Hwang since as far as I know this ban still stands. Nevertheless, I have been invited to taste with Jean-Bernard Berthomé at the Renaissance tasting (and I have occasionally purchased wines to taste as well), so I know the Huet 2013s were very good for a difficult vintage (there was hail), and the two 2014s I tasted this weekend were delightful, really very good indeed, top tier stuff. Also top tier, but off the mezzanine, are Fouquet and Champalou, both turning out delightful wines with an identifiable house style. This top tier position was really secured with the 1989 and 1990 vintages, so not much has changed in over 25 years.
Perhaps you can see where I am going with this. I have long liked the wines of Vincent Carême, but tasting his 2014s and a couple of 2015 barrel samples today they easily ranked alongside those of Bernard Fouquet. It is a few days since I tasted the Huet 2014s, but I think a comparison between the two, based solely on quality, would also be valid. Neither the Champalou family nor Foreau come to the Salon, but if Catherine pops up on the Terra Vitis stand I will take a look at her wines too. Whatever happens, if the quality of the 2014s and 2015s chez Carême is maintained through subsequent vintages, this domaine deserves a place on the top tier (lower mezzanine level!) at least. If you feel disinclined towards this sentiment (nobody likes change, not least when suggested by an insignificant ‘blogger’ such as myself) do try to taste their 2014s when they come onto the market. They are simply stunning, precise, defined wines, which have not only textured confidence but also a fine acid frame and a seam of minerality that has lifted them up a level I think. Basically, they’re really top tier.
As noted Vincent’s 2015s are also really good, as are those 2015s I have tasted from François Crochet, Romain Guiberteau, Philippe Alliet, Luneau-Papin, Vincent Caillé and quite a few others. Today (Tuesday) I will be looking to reinforce these first impressions with more tastes of 2015 and 2014.