Three from Domaine Serisier
Richard Serisier can trace his winemaking heritage back to 1839 when an ancestor, Jean Emile Serisier, left Bordeaux for Australia. No sooner had he arrived than he planted his first vines, in New South Wales. Fast forward a few years (to 2005 in fact, so quite a few) and a few generations and Richard Serisier became the new proprietor of Château Cadillac which, despite the name at first suggesting it might lie elsewhere, is located on the right bank, not too far from the vineyards of Fronsac and Pomerol.
Rather than chasing along on the coat tails of grander appellations Richard has chosen what I might call “the Reignac route”, working within the Bordeaux Supérieur appellation but in no way being confined by its rather generic image or reputation, akin to the work at Château de Reignac, or perhaps Château Grand Village or Roc de Cambes, where the Guinaudeau family and François Mitjavile also push the boundaries of their low-key appellations. From his vineyard he produces two cuvées, the small-production Château Montrevel and the larger-production Le Bout du Monde.
These are serious wines, with a lot more tannin and oak than I was expecting. They are not bright and breezy fruit-dominated wines for easy, early drinking. Without a doubt they need to be left in the cellar for five, maybe ten years. The 2014s are superior to the 2012, although the latter is clearly a good effort, even more so now I have realised this was Richard’s first ever vintage. My thanks go to Richard for the opportunity to taste these wines.
Château Montrevel (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2014: Made from the fruit of 35-year old Merlot vines, a very limited production of just 2,000 bottles. Vinified in small cement cuves, then malolactic and an élevage lasting 23 months in 100% new oak barrels. A bright crimson rim around a black tulip core to this wine, and enticing aromatics of rose petals, smoked blackcurrant, and black raspberry, and although there are some oak spices here it is nicely blanketed by the fruit. This also seems to be the case on the palate, which maintains a supple and succulent style, with intense cigar smoke, ripe blackcurrant and a herby edge of bay leaf. Very focused, with succulent acid and a grained tannic structure supporting admirable substance through the middle and finish, peppery and firm. This should go some distance in the cellar. 16/20 • 92/100 (January 2018)
Le Bout du Monde (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2014: This cuvée comes from younger vines, aged 25 years, 100% Merlot, with a production of 13,800 bottles. Vinified in small cement cuves, then 15 months in oak, using 60% new barrels. A rich and bright hue in the glass. It has a nose of sweet dark fruit, and despite using only 60% new oak the fruit is currently straitjacketed by a solid frame of sweet oak, coming through as toasted coconut and minty chocolate, and right now the fruit doesn’t shine through. The palate is exactly as the nose suggests, dark fruit framed by rich oak flavours, with a solid backbone of firm tannins which feel oak-influenced, swirled with intensely sweet fruit, dried blackcurrants, olives, black liquorice and currants. It is medium-bodied, with a long warming finish. There is some good raw material here, and lots of effort, but it needs to be tucked away in the cellar for five to ten years, like any grand vin, to absorb that oak and to soften those tannins. 15.5/20 • 91/100 (January 2018)
Le Bout du Monde (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2012: From 25-year old vines, 100% Merlot, with a production of 12,000 bottles. Vinified in small cement cuves, then 14 months in oak in this vintage, using 50% new and 50% second-fill barrels. A rich and bright hue in the glass. Like the 2014 though, while this is rich in berry fruit, showing a slightly roasted character, currently contained within a prominent frame of toffee, caramel and chocolate-laced oak. The palate carries on in the same vein, the fruit here more defined and seemingly more true to my perception of the vintage, showing a cooler red cherry character, albeit with a grilled edge, sitting in a bed of vanillin oak. A very nicely structured wine, with some finely defined tannins, and delightfully fresh acidity, all fashioned into a charming finish with a confident length. An attractive and honest style that shows some nice vintage typicity. 14.5/20 • 89/100 (January 2018)
Disclosure: These were samples received for tasting.