From Moueix to Cheval Blanc
Friday was Pomerol day, and almost the day I had my first no-show. Almost.
When I rose, before dawn, I could see fog outside lingering heavily around the streetlamps. The weather this week has been really unusual, freezing cold in the morning, but warming up each afternoon. On Thursday, the first day of December, I had to scrape ice off the heavily chipped windscreen of my hire car (taking car not to press too hard, in case the whole thing caved in), and yet by early afternoon, standing at the front of Château Pavie, south-facing, with the pale stone facade just behind me, it was unbearably warm. In December!
The fog eventually cleared, but a frost remained. Yesterday was another ice-scraping day. “We are glad to see the frost”, Omri Ram of Château Lafleur later told me. A cold winter is good for the vines, although they could perhaps benefit from some rain as well, to top up the water table left low after the 2015 drought. My windscreen duly cleared, I headed down to the Moueix offices in Libourne, where I was greeted by both Christian and Edouard Moueix, two stalwarts. After a tasting here I headed out to Château L’Église-Clinet, where to my disappointment I found the cellars and maison all locked up, the shutters closed. My pressing of the doorbell went unanswered, so there was nothing to do but wait and see if Denis turned up. I passed the time wandering around the cemetery next-door. Am I the only one who finds cemeteries vaguely fascinating?
As I wandered among the gravestones and mausoleums, I was coming to the conclusion that Denis was a ‘no show’ when I heard a door slam nearby, and immediately went to investigate. Denis had arrived (hurrah!), and after discussing the rights and wrongs of tasting young wines for twenty minutes I sat down to taste the Durantou portfolio in 2014. Thereafter I headed out to Vieux Château Certan for a meeting with Guillaume Thienpont, and Alexandre popped in to say hello as well. After tasting here, I headed out to Château Le Gay. It is always a pleasure to come to this pretty château, my eyes often as pleased here as my palate is by its wines.
Afterwards I had a quick lunch break, followed by a visit to Château Nenin, an estate on the up, with some serious changes underway, in the vineyard, in the château and cellars, and most importantly in the wine too. Afterwards, I headed out to Château Lafleur, something of a contrast. With a fairly relaxed schedule, I really enjoyed this tasting, delving into 2014 here and at Château Grand Village, looking at both red and white wines. Afterwards I headed out to Château Figeac, for their two 2014s, tasted with Frédéric Faye (pictured above), and then it was on to Château Cheval Blanc, to look at their 2014s. Meeting up as agreed with Nicolas Corporandy, the chef de culture, I tasted the grand vin, the second wine and the new addition to the portfolio in 2014, Le Petit Cheval Blanc. This latter wine is the first commercialised result of a long project, on which I will write more at a later date.
Once finished, the sun had long set, and it was very dark. Despite this I decided to make an impromptu inspection of the new Cheval Blanc white vines. Before long I had my hire car bumping up and down a rough track through the middle of a vineyard. This is, I should point out, nothing new. It was too dark for photographs though, so although I gained some understanding of exactly where the new white vines sit, I don’t have the evidence to support it. Oh well – I shall just have to come back next year.
That’s it for this short trip to Bordeaux. Right now I an en route for Edinburgh, via Mérignac. Normal Winedoctor service will be resumed as soon as possible.