A Good Value Pouilly-Fume
I think everyone knows the Loire Valley is a fine source of good value Sauvignon Blanc and in a good vintage, such as 2012, the Touraine region was bursting at the seams with lots of full and flavoursome Sauvignon Blancs to beat anything New Zealand can produce. Well that’s my opinion, although I guess it depends on what style of Sauvignon Blanc you enjoy; for me the tense and minerally restraint of the Loire is preferable to the rather textured and exotic passion fruit versions from elsewhere.
Look to more famous appellations, though, and value can be harder to find. I see this every year when judging the Loire category of the Decanter World Wine Awards; Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre at lower price points don’t always deliver the goods. Here is one wine, however, that does.
The Pabiot family, proprietors of Domaine des Fines Caillottes, can trace their story in Pouilly-Fumé (specifically in Les Loges, on the banks of the Loire) back to Louis Pabiot who was tending vines at the end of the 19th century. Jean Pabiot, whose name graces the label, was the third generation, while today the domaine is in the hands of Alain and Jérôme, the fourth and fifth generations respectively.
The wine in question might not come from the ‘go-to’ 2012 vintage, as it is a 2013 (on the neck label, out of view) and this still a good vintage for earlier picked varieties. The 2013 Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fumé comes from a variety of parcels and terroirs, and is the domaine’s entry-level blend. It is fermented cool (at 16-20ºC) by indigenous wild yeasts. It has a pale hue, and aromatically a rather perfumed, soapstone-mineral character, set against some sweet fruit, with a cool and very aromatic twist of scents on the side resembling lychee and pear drops, perhaps (surely?) reflecting the fermentation temperature. The palate has some rather citric, gooseberry-skin fruit, and remains very true to the variety, with seams of delightfully bright peppery acidity running through the middle, and a nice, pithy, rather bitter citrus seam here too. It is dry and punchy in the finish. It majors more on freshness and variety than minerality, but it is a wine of good drinkability. For an entry-level Pouilly-Fumé, this is good stuff. 15/20 (October 2013)
Disclosure: This was a sample from LHK Fine Wines.