Exploring Sherry #17: Romate Don Jose Oloroso
Yes, it has been a long time, hasn’t it? In truth, a full three months have passed since my last foray into the Sherry universe, which was with the Fernando de Castilla Antique Oloroso. I think we have a problem with a time distortion around the Bordeaux primeurs (something else to blame the Bordelais for!) because I can’t understand how I have lasted three months without a glass of Sherry.
This wine comes from Sánchez Romate Hermanos, which was established at the end of the 18th century – in 1781, to be precise – by a local chap named Juan Sánchez de la Torre. The firm went from strength to strength, their wines appearing on tables everywhere from the House of Lords in the UK, to the Vatican. Remarkably, the firm remains in the hands of a local family.
As the label indicates this is a Medium Dry Sherry, nevertheless the sugar concentration is not high, and the sweetness doesn’t dominate. In the glass the Romate Don José Oloroso has a gloriously toasty, caramel-bronze hue with a green rim. The nose is enticing, full of typical dried-wood notes, the typical oloroso oxidation here dancing around the scents of toasted walnut, a caramelised suggestion of sweetness, as well as pistachio, marzipan and some gentle allspice and ginger nuances. It is immediately soft and textured on the palate, showing its residual sugar, although it feels nicely balanced, the sweetness not dominating. The complexity suggested by the nose comes through, with plenty of drier, oxidative elements lending a contrast, and the acidity keeps it fresh and well defined. A wine full of charm, and beautifully bright and lively for an oloroso. 17/20 (May 2016)