2013 Reflections: Loire
It has been a busy year for me as far as the Loire is concerned. I visited in February, staying over for five days for the Salon des Vins de Loire, visiting the Renaissance and Dive Bouteille tastings at the same time. I returned in June, passing a couple of days in the Muscadet region, visiting and tasting at a handful of top domaines. Finally, I returned in October, making some harvest-time visits with Jim Budd in Bourgueil, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Vouvray, other Touraine vineyards, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. As a consequence I have made 90 Loire updates to Winedoctor this year, including tasting and vintage reports, reports on latest releases from a number of domaines, as well as new profiles and profile updates. This doesn’t include my weekend wine reports, which also tend to feature the Loire. I can’t be sure how many new tasting notes or words written that would translate into, other than “a lot”.
A scan through my tasting notes reveals about fifteen wines that really rose a notch above all the wines of the Loire Valley that I tasted and drank this year. Unsurprisingly, these make for a roll-call of the great and the good from the Loire.
From Muscadet, both the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d’Or 2012 and the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Château-Thébaud Clos des Morines 2010 showed superb potential; both were samples from cuve though (the Château-Thébaud cuvée is a cru communal prototype which sees three years on the lees before bottling). In each case new blood is at least partially responsible; at Luneau-Papin, Pierre-Marie Luneau and his wife Marie Chartier (pictured below) are now in charge, while at Domaine de la Pépière Rémi Branger works alongside Marc Ollivier.
Although I found some enticing examples of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé this year, from the likes of Vacheron, Pierre Martin and Jonathon Pabiot, none really pushed all the buttons required to make it into my list of favourite wines. And as I haven’t really got to grips with the Côte Roannaise, that means all our other wines come from the Loire heartland of Anjou, Saumur and Touraine. Well, just Anjou and Touraine, actually.
I have always been keen to promote the Loire as an excellent source of dry white wine and also red wine, rather than just the sweet wines which are already widely appreciated, nevertheless my look back at 2013 might suggest that sweet wines rule the roost. Two dry wines, the 2009 Les Noëls de Montbenault and 2005 Les Noëls de Montbenault from Richard Leroy were superb, but no other dry wines could quite match up to their performance, although to be fair many wines from the likes of Pithon-Paillé came close, clearly showing what an exciting source of dry whites the Anjou appellation can be.
It was the sweet wines that dominate my memories of 2013 though, in particular from Château Pierre-Bise and Domaine de la Bergerie, many of which I tasted with proprietors Claude Papin and Yves Guégniard early on in the year. From Claude, the 2011 Chaume was an absolute delight, really the equal of his 2010 Quarts de Chaume. But from Yves three vintages of his Quarts de Chaume, 2011, 2009 and 2007, served in succession were simply breathtaking, the 2007 tear-jerking in its lifted purity and almost ethereal aromatics. I have been tucking the Pierre-Bise wines – dry as well as sweet of course – away in the cellar for some time, but if anyone would like to tell me where I can get hold of Yves’ wines (other than at the ‘cellar door’) I would be very interested to know. Why does nobody import these wines?
The region with the biggest and best showing, though is Touraine, where my favourite wines come in all forms, sparkling, white, red and sweet. I have had some superb experiences with the Chinons of the 2009 and 2010 vintages recently, having featured many from Bernard Baudry, Couly-Dutheil and Philippe Alliet as my ‘weekend wines’, but it is the first of these three domaines that put on the greatest show, with the 2009 Chinon La Croix Boissée, a stunning wine set to do great things in the future. Looking further back in time though, the 1989 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie from Charles Joguet, tasted later in the year, was also a striking wine.
Otherwise Vouvray is the order of the day, with one lonely Montlouis popping up. The latter is a wine I have featured before, and simply can’t praise enough, the 2008 Clos Habert Demi-Sec from François Chidaine; this is a stunning wine which takes my breath away whenever I taste it. To be fair though, François (pictured above) has a superb portfolio with an amazing combination of high quality and consistency. Why he hasn’t been elevated to the level of Dagueneau, Clos Rougeard or similar I can’t understand; buy these wines while you still can is my advice.
One young upstart who makes it into my list is Vincent Carême, across the river in Vouvray; I am sure he and his wife Tania would rather I talk about his still wines, which are of a very good quality, but I am still having too much fun with the sparkling 2008 L’Ancestrale. Otherwise, the old guard still dominates, with a trio of Moelleux Réserve cuvées from Philippe Foreau – the 2009, 2005 and 2003 – all simply breathtaking in their depth and complexity, the 2002 Pétillant Réserve and 2008 Le Mont Demi-Sec from Domaine Huet both remarkable, and the 2009 Cuvée Alexandre from Domaine des Auibuisières showing huge potential.
In the case of Foreau, I see no need for further comment; the wines here can frequently be stunning. The wines of Huet deserve a few clarifying words though; there have been concerns raised about a number of wines from this domaine, especially in the 2002 vintage, where there have been reports of oxidation. This wasn’t an issue with this bottle (pictured above, and drank sometime back in February) but I will have more detail on this in the next few weeks, in a forthcoming report covering younger and older (the range is from 2002 to 2012) vintages of sparkling and sec Vouvray from this domaine, looking both at quality (in 2012 especially) and at whether or not the wines show any signs of oxidation.
It has been a great year for Loire drinking and buying, with 2009 and 2010 giving us great reds, 2009, 2010 and 2011 giving us some superb sweet wines from Anjou, 2010 and 2012 being very fine vintages for Muscadet and 2012 a tip-top year for Touraine and Central Vineyard Sauvignons. Sadly, 2013 probably won’t live up to any of these high standards, but there is always 2014 I suppose……
Tomorrow, all going well, a look back at Bordeaux.