Decanter World Wine Awards 2015
I’ve had a busy week in London, mostly judging in the 2015 Decanter World Wine Awards. As usual I’m sitting on the Loire panel alongside Jim Budd and other Loire stalwarts including Nigel Wilkinson of the RSJ Restaurant (which surely has the country’s most convincing Loire wine list – the list is entirely sourced from the region) and Chris Hardy, who buys from the Loire for Majestic Wine Warehouses. The Jim-Chris-Chris-Nigel combo always makes for a very entertaining day; we all know the region well, and we have great fun judging the wines.
It’s been fun meeting a few new people too though, either at the tasting table, or over lunch, and I’ve had really nice chats with the likes of top biodynamic author, journalist, presenter and winemaker Monty Waldin, the Loire-interested Matt Wilkin MS of H2Vin, Portuguese/Australian expert Sarah Ahmed, one of the newest MWs in existence Natasha Hughes MW, and a few others who have no doubt momentarily slipped my mind (apologies!). Getting together in a big group like this really does remind me just how many good people there are working in wine, and I feel privileged to be part of it, even if I do feel as though I only flit in and out of the UK wine scene, which is very London-centric, much less often than I would like.
Sadly I have to report that I have been a traitor to the Loire, as although my original intention was to judge on all four days at the DWWA this was before I realised that the annual Bordeaux Grand Cru Classé tasting was also this week. So my trip to London has killed two birds with one stone. The Bordeaux tasting was on Wednesday, so instead of heading to Tobacco Dock for the DWWA I went instead to Church House, in the shadow of Westminster Abbey, for the last four vintages (2011 & 2012 in bottle, 2013 & 2014 from barrel – or mostly in barrel in the case of the 2013s) from the likes of Château Gazin, La Mondotte, Château Branaire-Ducru and about a dozen other châteaux. This was another great opportunity to connect with good people in the wine trade, such as Joss Fowler, who sells wine but seems to do a very good job writing about it as well, and the famous (or infamous?) Barry Phillips from Four Walls Wine, who I bought a shed-load of old Vouvray from a while back, as well as a number of other merchants. I will be writing up my thoughts on the wines at this tasting in the near future, although my approach will be different this year. Watch this space.
Anyway, back to the Loire at the DWWA, and it has been a joy to taste here this year. The Loire Valley enjoyed a largely good vintage in 2014, and of course from some regions these wines are already coming through; there was a wealth of delightful Muscadet, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé on offer. I was particularly impressed by the standards in Muscadet. Alongside the many delicious entry-level wines of the 2014 vintage there was also some crus communaux cuvées from the 2010 vintage. Put all these wines together and there was certainly plenty of gold medal-winning potential. There should be some very happy vignerons in these regions when they see the results. The wines, despite the evident quality, still remain excellent value as well. As for other regions, these tended to trail in the wake of all the Melon and Sauvignon, although there were still some good wines, especially from Vouvray (including a demi-sec I will be looking out for, from the 2014 vintage), one or two decent sweet wines (2011 shining here), and even some nice rosés (2014 again of course). I’m looking forward to next year though, when we will start to see the 2014 reds coming through. It’s a vintage for good reds as well as whites in my opinion.