Salon des Vins de Loire 2015 day 1
I’m not sure it is possible to taste more Muscadet, Sancerre, Vouvray and Montlouis than I tasted yesterday. I kicked off with Luneau-Papin, with some brut de cuve samples which only served to reinforce my rapidly forming opinion that 2014 in the Loire Valley is a lovely vintage for all styles of dry wine, white, rosé and red, but is perhaps less notable for its sweet wines. Certainly that is the case in Vouvray (where there will be no sweet wines this year, only demi-sec at best), but I will only be getting to grips with Anjou tomorrow, so I can’t comment on the Coteaux du Layon, Aubance, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux at present.
After Luneau-Papin, onto Domaine de Haut Bourg, one of the leading domaines in the Côtes de Grandlieu appellation in Muscadet, where the main attractions were the new releases of the long lees-aged wines, Signature 2010 (five years sur lie) and Origine 2005 (ten years sur lie). Then over to Domaine Vacheron, where I was pleased to taste two new cuvées, Le Pavé and L’Enclos des Remparts. Then, although this was a day for whites, just before I nipped off for lunch I noticed that Mathieu Baudry had nothing to do on his stand, so I took advantage of his quiet moment to taste through his wines. The major surprise here was how well his 2012s are showing, but those 2014s again! I only tasted the lower end of the range in 2014, but they are just super. Further delaying my lunch, I also tasted the wines of Domaine de Roche Ville, a Saumur-Champigny domaine new to me, where there are some very tasty 2011s, but also some superb 2014s in the pipeline, as well as some really good white wines.
After lunch it was back to white, with the wines of Pascal Reverdy first, then a detour to meet up with Catherine Champalou (who was only going to be present for two hours, so it was now or never), then back to Sancerre with François Crochet. Both Pascal and François have made great wines in 2014, as well as some smart 2013s, while Catherine has achieved the same. In Sancerre that wasn’t so hard, but making a good Vouvray in 2013 is a real achievement, certainly one to be proud of.
Then came more Vouvray and a touch of Montlouis, while I got to grips with the 2013 from Peter Hahn, which I tasted from barrel last summer, as well as the wines of Xavier Weisskopf (pictured above), then Bernard Fouquet, François Chidaine and Jacky Blot, not quite in that order but it is close enough. This was a real contrast to the Sancerre tastsings, because whereas all these domaines have made lovely 2014s, the wines here tend to show up the inadequacies in the 2013s, which are weaker by comparison. It was, of course, a much more difficult vintage in 2013 for Touraine Chenin Blanc (especially the hailed-out Vouvray vineyards, but Montlouis too it seems) than it was for Sancerre.
I’ve gathered a lot of information to slot into my forthcoming 2014 Loire report, and of course a lot of new notes on other recent vintages too. Today (Tuesday), it is a day for Anjou, so off I go to taste. Before signing off though, a quick update on the state of the Salon, which I alluded to yestersay. It has contracted much more than I had previously realised, the organisers having dealt with this by bringing in false walls around at least two sides of the exhibition hall, hiding space behind which would normally be filled with stands. Other notables that are absent include François Pinon (perhaps not surprising, he was also absent last year, almost inevitable after the disaster of the 2013 hail) and – to my great disappointment – Domaine de la Pépière.