Wine in Context #1: Clos Rougeard
I had originally planned to publish this yesterday morning, but with the news of the death of Charly Foucault breaking it just didn’t feel right. Now, as the news has sunk in, it feels inappropriate not to publish it…..
Looking back over 2015, at my favourite wine-related moments of the year, whether they be best bottles, best wine dinners, best tastings or otherwise, there was one visit-and-tasting-combined which was my obvious number-one choice for the year. In June 2015 I visited Clos Rougeard, and enjoyed a fantastic tasting in their new cellars with Nady Foucault (pictured below). It was the runaway highlight of the year.
Some visits disappoint, the wines or even the mood of the proprietor perhaps serving to dampen the experience in some way. Some are good, where everything goes well, and while no long-term memories are formed the wines are fine and the write up is appropriately positive. Some visits, though, are truly great, and this visit to Clos Rougeard certainly fits into this category. After descending three levels into the new Foucault cellars I spent the best part of three hours (I think – I wasn’t exactly clock-watching) in the cool and dimly-lit subterranean palace, tasting barrel samples and bottled wines, from all manner of vintages, most recent, one or two a little older.
What made the visit such an experience was firstly the quality of the wines. I have tasted and drunk (mostly the latter, to be honest) a fair amount of Clos Rougeard over the years, and while the wines are often exemplary, every domaine has its ups and downs. But the wines tasted on this occasion were just breathtaking. Great vintages helped, because I tasted several bottles and samples from 2010, 2011 and 2014, all very favourable years. Tasting the different components in 2014, from barrel, also helped lift the experience. The barrel components of 2014 Le Bourg, for example, were just tear-jerkingly complex and intricately woven. I came away with the feeling that, regardless of the prices asked these days, I had to have some of those wines. That doesn’t happen that often these days, even at some very famous addresses (most that I am thinking of here are in Bordeaux, as it happens).
It wasn’t just the wine though; Nady proved himself a congenial host. For all the distance Nady and his late-brother (it feels strange writing that) Charly put between themselves and those that loved their wines, here in his presence it was clear he had the ability to charm. He clearly loved leading a tasting, and he clearly enjoyed the opportunities for humour it presented. He may appear to be a wiry, athletic, suffer-no-nonsense individual, but he clearly enjoys a joke as much as the next guy, and despite his ‘no pictures’ reputation, he also enjoyes playing the fool for the camera when it appears (even if all my pictures are along more serious lines!).
This was a tasting that filled my head with scents, sounds, tastes, experiences and ultimately memories, thanks to Nady’s hospitality and their wines. Charly wasn’t there of course – there was nothing unusual in that though. It was a couple of months later that I learnt he was ill. And just a week or two after that – yesterday in fact – that I learnt of his passing. It means my memory of this tasting is now tinged with sadness, but nothing like the sadness that must exist in Chacé and Chavignol today. My condolences to Charly’s wife Françoise, their son Antoine of Domaine du Collier, brother Nady and sister-in-law Anne Vatan of Clos la Néore.
This post concludes my Wine in Context review of 2015. If you are new to Wine in Context, a glance at Wine in Context #10: Return to Thieuley might be helpful. If you want to contribute, feel free to add your favourite moment in the comments below – or if you have a longer report from a great wine dinner, wine trip, wine tasting or other wine moment during 2015 you can email it to me, and I can host it on the blog for you.