An Elegant Non-Vintage Pinot Noir Champagne
When I first started learning about wine I found it hardly credible that you could tell which varieties contributed to any particular Champagne. The processes seemed just too complex, the blending and winemaking too large a part of the process, for grape-derived characteristics to be transmitted through from the vineyard to the finished wine. But with time I realised it was true, Pinot Noir bringing a rich substance, an apple-on-biscuit character, Chardonnay bringing purity, orchard fruit and elegance.
Here is a wine that tripped me up though. Elegant, defined, lifted and bright, I never would have though it was almost entirely Pinot Noir.
Brigandat & Fils are based in Channes, in the Côte des Bars, the southern-most reaches of the Champagne vineyard. To illustrate just how far south this commune lies, it sits right on the boundary between the Aube (north), Yonne (southwest) and Côte d’Or (southeast); Chablis sits just 35 kilometres west, while the vineyards of the Côte d’Or are a little further south. This is really Burgundy country.
The cuvée in question, the Brigandat & Fils Brut Tradition NV, is made from 95% Pinot Noir and 5% Chardonnay, grown on the Kimmeridgian limestone soils that stretch westwards through Chablis and Sancerre. The base vintage is 2010, and the bottling for the second fermentation took place in June 2011. In the glass it has a pale straw hue. The fruit on the nose has a very fresh style, with citrus leaf and suggestion of white orchard fruit, herby-crunchy apple in particular, with a little pear and nut complexity. The palate shows a big, foaming, very youthful mousse set against firm acidity and there is a gentle, softening texture from the dosage. On reflection there is some Pinot substance here after all, with tinges of custard apple and nut, dominating the middle of the palate. A lovely character, youthful though, with an elegant edge for an almost exclusively Pinot-based cuvée. Subtle, poised, yet certain of itself. A good wine. 16/20 (September 2014)
Disclosure: This wine was a sample from Carte du Vin.