Wine in Context #4: Bordeaux 2005
I’ve been a regular attendee of the Bordeaux Index annual tasting of ten-year old Bordeaux for a few years now. To me, Bordeaux has always been about wine in maturity; I realise there are many wines made in the region that are great to drink young, but the region has a place in my heart not because of these wines, but because of experiences with mature bottles from which emerge wines that twist and turn in the mouth, revealing layer after layer of confidence and complexity as they do so. This is why I buy and cellar Bordeaux.
Over the years I have cast my eye back to older vintages, sometimes wines tasted with a tasting group, sometimes a collection of wines from my cellar. This is fun, and I plan to continue doing it for that very reason; I have some 2003s lined up at the moment, as much because I have a feeling we need to be looking more closely at whether some wines from this vintage need drinking up as much as exploring their “confidence and complexity”, and after that I think I may take a look at the 2000 vintage again, as I didn’t touch on these wines in my recent 2000 Fifteen Years On tasting. But these tastings will only ever give us a glimpse of a vintage, ten or fifteen tasting notes from which we can extrapolate to other wines, other communes or appellations even. There are obviously some pitfalls with this premise; all such extrapolations have to be taken with a decent pinch of salt.
That’s why tastings such as the one held by Bordeaux Index are so useful; this is a more comprehensive look at the vintage, taking in the left-bank first growths, as well as big names from the right bank including Petrus and Le Pin, with perhaps 50 or 60 wines up for tasting. I wrote up my report of the 2005 tasting here: Bordeaux 2005 at Ten Years.
So why is this tasting one of my wine highlights for 2015? Simple; revisiting these wines, with the benefit of eight-or-so years of bottle age, and also the benefit of a few more years experience since I last tasted them (which, in any number, was six years ago, back in 2009) this vintage is clearly, for my palate at least, the real deal. Of course, it is one of several vintages anybody could trot off if asked to list their favourites from the last two decades. Everybody would throw 2000 into the ring, even though many wines have a methoxypyrazine freshness which I personally find very appealing, but it surprises me that wines which appear to major on green freshness and acidity rather than ripe texture and richness were so highly rated in the early days. Some would also throw 2003 into the ring, but this is in fact a really mixed vintage, with some great wines but also some dead and dying disasters (hence my intention to revisit it – there’s nothing like a bit of wine autopsy to while away the hours on a winter’s night). Nobody is going to argue with 2009 or 2010, even though they are very different vintages, 2009 a bit of a turbocharged 1982, while 2010 is a supercharged version of 1986. Or maybe 1988? Or maybe 1996 left bank? That one is, admittedly, a bit more difficult to tie down.
The 2005 vintage though has measured texture, balance, harmony, the aforementioned confidence although the complexity of maturity has yet to come I think. Most of all the wines have purity, they are fresh, the flavours defined, the tannins substantial but ripe and pristine, the acidity spot on for the wine that is built around it. They are very complete wines. It is I think the most charming and delectable of recent vintages, and as I sat in the Bordeaux Index offices, tasting with joy, I was glad that I had been able to put a few bottles away in the cellar (even if some wines, such as the one pictured above, were somewhat beyond my price range). It is a little like my older tasting companions telling me, twenty-or-so years ago, how glad they were to have put away some 1982s. The 2005 vintage is at that sort of level, one of the true greats of our lifetime, and I feel privileged to have been able to experience it.
There will be more Wine in Context moments over the next few days. If you are new to Wine in Context, a glance at Wine in Context #10: Return to Thieuley might be helpful. If you want to contribute, feel free to add your favourite moment in the comments below – or if you have a longer report from a great wine dinner, wine trip, wine tasting or other wine moment during 2015 you can email it to me, and I can host it on the blog for you.