Bordeaux 2015: David Suire, Larcis Ducasse
Somehow another five days have passed since my last Bordeaux 2015 report, featuring the words of Thomas Duroux. Time to put that right now.
After finishing up in Margaux, and on the left bank in general, I headed over to the right bank (stopping of at Château Reignac on the way, profile and tasting report to follow). One of my first ports of call was Château Larcis Ducasse, in St Emilion, where I met up with David Suire.
The estate is owned by the Gratiot family, but in 2002 they turned its running over to Nicolas Thienpont, who in turn installed David Suire to manage the vineyard and chai. He has been doing some really interesting work here, increasing his understanding of the vineyard and fine-tuning its management, running each parcel differently, sometimes identifying micro-parcels within others that need more specific attention. In the cellars, he has instigated a partial shift away from small oak to larger, 500-litre barrels. It’s fascinating stuff.
During my visit, I asked him how 2015 had gone.
Me: Can you please tell me a little about 2015?
David: It’s not a bad vintage [said with a knowing grin], but there are some things you should know. June and July were very important on the limestone of St Emilion because it was very dry, and a dry summer on this soil is almost always synonymous with a great vintage.
So we were confident at the end of July that the potential was great, but we had to wait at least two months to see if the potential would be realised. At the end of July the berries were tiny, with strong skins. The vines were a little early, not like in 2011 when they were really very early, but certainly a few days earlier, just like 2010 at this stage.
Then August came, and with it we had a lot of rain, and a cooler climate too. It changed our vision of the vintage, because we went from from concentrated and tannic berries to berries where the tannins could be diluted by the rain. Maybe things would be a little more tender.
Then things changed again in September, which was good, the weather was now hot and dry again, and this continued into October too. We had alternating dry and humid weather, and this was good to mature the skins and tannins. I think this helped the quality of the tannins. When you have only dry weather you can taste that in the tannins, and of course when it only rains they are green.
This year though they are ripe, and yet also softened by the rain, they are more tender than in 2011. Today, when we taste the first wines we have made, we can taste the richness of the vintage in them. They have a very nice, very beautiful complexity, they have rich but fine tannins, which is good at this stage. You can’t really feel the tannins are there, you can only feel them through the power of the wine.
Me: Thanks. Is it like any other vintage?
David: Concerning the balance we think it is between 2009 and 2010; the richness is like 2009, but the wines have more freshness than that vintage, although they also have a little less acidity than 2010. They are more approachable than the 2010s, with better balance than the 2009s.
Me: Can you talk me through the harvest?
David: We started on September 21st on Murmure [a specific parcel] for the second wine also called Murmure, which we started making in 2010. The first picking for Larcis Ducasse was on September 28th, on the lower parcels.
We had a very long period of picking, it lasted three to four weeks on some properties. The maturation was moving slowly. We had to pick, then wait, pick, then wait. It was a very comfortable way to harvest! We finished on October 12th, concluding mainly with the Cabernet Franc and a few last Merlots, having started the Cabernet Franc on October 7th.
Me: How about yields and potentials?
David: The yields are maybe 37 hl/ha. The potential alcohols are like 2009 and 2010, perhaps 14.5-14.6º, quite high, but with quite high acidity. When we tasted we didn’t feel the alcohol.
Me: Thanks David.
These early Bordeaux 2015 reports are essentially funded by Winedoctor subscribers, the first purpose of this latest trip to Bordeaux having been to taste 2013s for a forthcoming report on that vintage. If you find these reports interesting, please consider taking out a subscription to Winedoctor.