Bordeaux 2015: Jean-Rene Matignon, Pichon-Baron
After a break last week – I was on the road quite a lot and although I managed to write a few words on the Oaked Sauvignon Blanc tasting there wasn’t much time for anything else – this week it’s back to seeing how some of the good guys in Bordeaux are feeling about 2015.
After getting the low-down from Jean-Michel Comme of Château Pontet-Canet and Philippe Dhalluin of Château Mouton-Rothschild I didn’t have far to go for my next appointment. I called in Château Pichon-Baron, where the extraordinarily knowledgeable winemaker Jean-René Matignon had been left holding the fort.
After tasting the 2013s, we chewed the cud on 2015 for a while. The meeting was held in French (pidgin-French on my part) so treat the words below as an amateur translation of Jean-René’s words.
Me: Can you please tell me a little about 2015?
Jean-René: It has been a beautiful vintage, although it was full of challenges. It is too early to say with any precision the profile of the vintage though.
Me: What challenges are your referring to?
Jean-René: The vintage has a relative homogeneity, with good quality in all the wines, and in the cellar I don’t see any weaker cuves.
However, the vintage was not straightforward, there was rain sometimes, and the climatic impact on the vintage varied from one part to another. Some parts of the Médoc were more affected than others. This challenge, for us, was an important one, as across the vineyard the maturity was less regular than we thought it was going to be. So we had to be very attentive to maturity. We had a long wait, observing each terroir independently, so we could pick each at the best time.
Me: Is there any difference between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot?
Jean-René: The Cabernet Sauvignons are close to 2005 with regard to their tannins, in that they are a bit austere, there is good quality of tannins, they feel juicy. Our wait for good maturity was for the tannins, as we wanted them to be silky and ‘gourmand’. The tannins were like this in 2005. I think there will be silky tannins again in 2015.
The Merlots are very homogenous, really satisfactory. But the complexity is really there in the Cabernet Sauvignon.
The truth will be in the glass though. Right now I am concentrating on a slow extraction. The skins are firm, closed, and they need a slow and gentle extraction. This characteristic of the fruit reveals for me the quality of the vintage. It is a bit unusual. But the wines so far seem to have great definition and complexity.
Me: Thanks Jean-René.
These early Bordeaux 2015 reports are essentially funded by Winedoctor subscribers, the first purpose of this latest trip to Bordeaux having been to taste 2013s for a forthcoming report on that vintage. If you find these reports interesting, please consider taking out a subscription to Winedoctor.