Bordeaux 2015: Thomas Duroux, Palmer
I can just about manage to squeeze in another quick post on the 2015 Bordeaux vintage and harvest before we hit the weekend. And it’s a good one, because Thomas Duroux (of Château Palmer) always gives a frank and insightful report on how the growing season and harvest went. He speaks with the authority that comes with running (successfully, it has to be said) one of the great (in my opinion) cru classé vineyards, one which outclasses other third growths with regularity, certain second growths with equal regularity, and (wording this bit carefully) in a couple of recent vintages it has certainly been my favourite wine in the Margaux appellation when tasting during the primeurs week. These days, however, he also brings us news of the vintage as seen from a biodynamic point of view; over several years the proportion of the vineyard managed using biodynamics has increased, so that by the 2013 vintage the majority of the vineyard was biodynamic, by 2014 it was 100% biodynamic, and so 2015 was its second year in full biodynamics.
Me: Can you please tell me a little about 2015?
Thomas: It was fabulous, a perfect season. From June 12th to the end of July we had no rain. The vines stopped growing early, and we had small berries, at the end of July we were a little concerned about this.
But then at the end of July and into August we had a little rain, not too much – we had 70 mm by the end of August which is average for the month – and this really helped after such a dry June and July.
Then we had a beautiful September to begin with. During mid-September there was a little concern, because we had some more rain. That made us worried that we would miss out on what was promising to be a super vintage, but I don’t think we did in the end.
Me: When did you start picking?
Thomas: When it came to picking, the harvest was at the same time as our neighbours, no earlier or later. We started on a few blocks of young Merlot on September 15th, but we only really started on the 22nd. We finished on October 7th.
I am happy with all the varieties this year. Thankfully we didn’t have any botrytis with the rain in September. We ended up with ripe fruit, ripe tannins in the skins and the pips were ripe too. With such ripeness there is no risk of over extraction in my opinion, so 2015 will see a bit more extraction than is usual for Palmer.
Me: How about your yields? Have they been impacted by biodynamics?
Thomas: We have a yield of about 35-36 hl/ha this year, which is normal for us. We never aim for more than 40 hl/ha anyway.
Me: This is your second year of full biodynamics. Has that made a difference?
Thomas: Is it vintage for biodynamics? I don’t know but it has been really intriguing. My intuition was that going over entirely to biodynamics would make it easier to understand the individualities in the vineyard, but it was just a feeling. But this year it really happened.
This is my twelfth vintage here, and it is the first time in twelve years that we pre-blended, because from the moment we had the wine in the vats it was incredibly clear which were destined for Palmer, and which was heading for Alter Ego.
Me: Thanks Thomas.
These early Bordeaux 2015 reports are essentially funded by Winedoctor subscribers, the first purpose of this latest trip to Bordeaux having been to taste 2013s for a forthcoming report on that vintage. If you find these reports interesting, please consider taking out a subscription to Winedoctor.