Bordeaux 2013: Olivier Berrouet, Petrus
After leaving Denis Durantou I made my way over to Petrus, where I had an appointment with Olivier Berrouet at, if memory serves me correctly, 4:15pm. Petrus has been a building site for the past year or so, and as this was where my appointment was I was expecting to see all the hoardings and fences taken down on my arrival. It wasn’t so, and in fact the place was deserted except for a few workmen.
Certain that I must have either the time or venue incorrect, I decided to phone to check. A few phone calls (in fractured French) later and I had determined I was at the right place, at the right time. And then, up above me, from the Petrus ‘site office’ (the uppermost of two stacked containers with windows) apeared Olivier Berrouet. I hadn’t even noticed the offices.
After unlocking one of the giant doors to the new chai we headed inside. Olivier Berrouet poured a glass of the 2012 Petrus, and I asked him about the 2013 vintage. I think Olivier (pictured below) was tired though; it was late Friday afternoon on October 25th, and the work had been non-stop since harvest began in early October. He was looking forward to his first weekend off all month. As such, our conversation ended up being quite short.
Me: Please tell me about the 2013 vintage and harvest.
Olivier: It is a small harvest this year, but I don’t have the exact figures yet (obviously they had the same coulure here as elsewhere, with Merlot worst hit). It has been a complicated growing season, but we didn’t suffer with rot. This was because we intervened at the right moment with the necessary treatments.
This is surprising to many people; even my father did not believe it (Olivier’s father, Jean-Claude Berrouet, was winemaker at Petrus for 44 vintages before Olivier took on the role). He was in California (I assume because he continues to consult, and he has clients there) and he didn’t believe me. He felt we should be out picking when we didn’t need to as we weren’t suffering the same rot as others. Then he returned, and saw it for himself.
We began picking on October 1st, and finished on October 8th. The harvest went well, except for a little rain on October 4th. Not enough to cause any major problems though.
With that, I left Petrus, and headed back to my hotel. It has been fascinating hearing about the vintage direct from the horses’ mouths, and I hope readers have found these little 2013 reports interesting too. This report brings these series of updates to an end though. Next stop, the primeurs, in April next year, when I will be able to taste the young wines for myself and see how the winemakers have dealt with what 2013 threw at them.
These early Bordeaux 2013 reports are essentially funded by Winedoctor subscribers, the first purpose of this latest trip to Bordeaux having been to taste 2011s for a forthcoming report on that vintage. If you find these reports interesting, please consider taking out a subscription to Winedoctor.