Home > Winedr Blog

Getting to Grips with Vouvray 2013

How long is “long enough” in Vouvray? Three weeks certainly wasn’t long enough for me, and as ever I left feeling I had only really scratched the surface of this very famous appellation, despite visiting many of the top domaines. Over the course of several days I called upon and tasted with Philippe Foreau, François Pinon, Bernard Fouquet, the Champalou family (Catherine, Didier and Céline), Vincent Carême and Peter Hahn (pictured below) of Le Clos de la Meslerie (who was essentially my neighbour for the three weeks, so I certainly visited his vineyards more than once), and I also ensured I visited some new names in the appellation, tasting for the first time with Florent Cosme (the younger brother of Mathieu Cosme), Catherine Dhoye-Deruet of Domaine de la Fontainerie and Tanguy Perrault of Domaine Perrault-Jadaud, and each one was a worthwhile visit. Of course I was unable to taste at Domaine Huet, having been banned from the estate for criticising the 2012s, but I did pick up some bottles of the 2013 vintage to taste at a future date.

Rather than write tasting reports on all these visits I will use them to update all my Vouvray profiles, many of which feel a little dated to me, and obviously there will be new profiles for those vignerons I visited for the first time. For the moment though, I thought I would sum up my feelings on the three vintages that I tasted most when in Vouvray, 2013, 2012 and 2011, starting with the most recent here. I will look at 2012 and 2011 on another day.

The first words on anyone’s lips when it comes to the 2013 vintage in Vouvray is bound to be “hail”. Certainly, as I wrote in my report on Le 2013 from François Pinon only yesterday, the hail that hit the appellation on June 17th shaped the vintage for many. It was a massive blow, and to be honest I do not think I can find the words to truly express how those worst-hit must have felt when seeing their vineyards completely defoliated by icy napalm. Now is the time, however, to look at the wines, and to remind ourselves that although hail is an economic disaster for some, writing off quantity, it does not necessarily write off quality. Some vineyards escaped the hail entirely. Some saw less damage than others. Careful and dedicated vignerons picked what they could from these partially-hit vineyards, bringing in mere handfuls of grapes in some cases. The quality of this fruit depends on factors other than hail, in particular how the weather held through the summer, and into September and October.

Peter Hahn, May 2012

Nice weather during July and August helped the vines to recover, and the dry conditions helped the injured vines to heal without succumbing to infection. There was even a little heat stress in August (this was at the same time the Bordelais enjoyed a warm and sunny spell, which is why 2013 Bordeaux, while very lean, is not a vintage marked by greenness). Unfortunately September saw a little more rain, nothing disastrous, but not very beneficial either, while conditions deteriorated in October, with cool days bringing little additional ripeness, while warm nights and wet weather brought the risk of rot. The pickers were sent out and everyone crossed their fingers.

Having now tasted a range of 2013s from across the domaines cited above I have to say I find more joy in this vintage than I do on the whole in 2012. I have twice tasted the wines of Bernard Fouquet already this year, in January and February, and thought them very good, and having retasted them with him at the domaine a couple of weeks ago I am glad I gave such handsome scores to the wines, because they continue to show very nicely from bottle. The Champalou wines are also attractive, slightly leaner and more minerally than Bernard’s, but very good. Philippe Foreau’s Sec 2013, bottled in April, showed a little more accessibility than his very saline 2012, although Philippe says the acidity reminded him very much of the 1983 vintage. A barrel tasting of the 2013 vintage with Vincent Carême revealed plenty of good material to work with, some barrels showing appealing fruit and others more minerality, while a similar barrel tasting with Peter Hahn was also very reassuring as well as being informative, the quality very good through the first and second tries, the third tri less appealing and so Peter intends to exclude this from the grand vin and make, for the first time, a sparkling wine (it tastes like perfect material for this, and after tasting it Philippe Foreau said the same thing). Peter’s grand vin will undoubtedly be dry in 2013. François Pinon’s wine is also good, as already written up. Perhaps the best wine, however, comes from the relatively-unknown Michel Autran; although not included in my list of visits above, I tasted with Michel in Philippe Foreau’s cellars, and as a result was able to taste his 2013 Les Enfers which he brought along. This was remarkably good, and could easily be the wine of the vintage. Of course, I have yet to see what Vincent’s and Peter’s wines taste like once assembled, and I have not yet tasted the wines I bought at Domaine Huet.

All in all, good news in 2013 despite the hail, with attractive sec, sec-tendre and occasionally demi-sec (and some fizz to come in future years too, evidently) in this vintage. They are not wines to blow your socks off, there is no denying it was not a perfect vintage, but there plenty of good dry and tender wines to buy and drink with pleasure.

As a last comment, on the 2014 vintage really, I’m happy to report that despite the hail damage the vines have all recovered beautifully, the flowering and fruit set was good, and the volumes in 2014 are destined to be good, including chez Pinon. Fingers crossed for all.

Next time, my renewed thoughts on Vouvray 2012.

Summer Break

This is just a quick post to point out that now summer has arrived (in the northern hemisphere, anyway) I will be taking my break from Winedoctor updates. I’m off to Vouvray (where, so I’m told, they make wine) for a few weeks. I have a couple of visits lined up, and of course I will be making a few more appointments once I set my feet on the ground.

Although I won’t be making any formal Winedoctor updates over the next three weeks, I may make a blog post or two (maybe), or perhaps a few Twitter posts (more likely), but on the whole I will be focusing on visiting, tasting (reports on my return), imbibing and relaxing. With the latter in mind, I might take a boat down the Cher one day; here’s hoping for a sunset like the one below, taken one evening last October.

The Cher, at sunset, October 2013

When I come back it will be full steam ahead with my reports – there is plenty more to come on Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (new profiles on Château de Tracy, de Ladoucette, Masson-Blondelet, Tinel-Blondelet and more), and a huge number of updates and new profiles in Nantais, Anjou and Saumur (Jérémie Mourat, Fosse Seche & Nicolas Reau, to name just three of many). And obviously, I might have a few new words on Vouvray to publish. As for Bordeaux, to follow my recent Bordeaux 2004 report I have new mini-reports on 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 coming up, as well as some château and visit reports to publish.

Thereafter, it won’t be long before I get on to the autumn Bordeaux tastings, on the 2010 and 2012 vintages. Of course I will visit Bordeaux to taste the 2010s in bottle, but I will also be there to lead an open trip to Yquem, Haut-Brion, Pichon-Baron, Troplong-Mondot and the like. There are just a couple of places left now, so if you’re interested in coming along, check out this blog post.

Happy drinking to all, thanks for reading, and huge thanks to all my subscribers – Chris.

Another from Minna Vineyard

After a recent look at the 2009 Minna Vineyard Red, this week I decided to check in on the Minna Vineyard White, in the 2010 vintage.

Whereas I have reasonably strong opinions on how the wines of the Loire should taste (at the same time remaining open-minded and enjoying a variety of styles), I don’t have such a strong feel for the France’s most southerly vineyards. So, to my mind, anything goes, especially when you look to unfamiliar regions such as the Bouches du Rhône where, in this case at least, the varieties used are Vermentino (which sounds Italian, but it is perhaps better known locally as Rolle, a grape long-established on Corsica and in the Var region of Provence), together with Roussanne and Marsanne (perhaps rather more familiar, especially to Rhône-o-philes).

Minna Vineyard White 2010

This particular wine is made from low yields, just 29 hl/ha, vinified in small 15-hectolitre stainless steel cuves, each variety fermented separately by indigenous yeasts. The malolactic fermentation is not inhibited, and the élevage is mostly in steel, with just 30% going into barriques, on the lees, for aging with bâtonnage. The wine was bottled in July 2012.

The 2010 Minna Vineyard White has a pale, lemon-straw hue in the glass, and an appealing and interesting nose, full of chalky minerals, lemon-sherbet tones, with little tinges of tropical fruit behind it, cut with a leafy, peach-skin bite. I think the Vermentino is showing through here quite strongly, and in terms of style and aroma I find it vaguely reminiscent of some of the high-quality Portuguese whites I have tasted over the last few years, with all their lemony fruit and perfumed, chalky minerality. The palate is cool and reserved, yet broad and fleshy, with plenty of tension and a cool, grippy fruit substance. A long pithy finish completes the picture. There is a nice minerally cut here. This has a really reserved, introverted, slightly leafy style, and provides some good drinking. 15/20 (July 2014)

Exploring Sherry #2: Leonor

Back to Sherry now, and the world of Palo Cortado. As proper Sherry buffs (i.e. not me) know, the palo cortado style traditionally originates with wayward behaviour in a fino solera. With fino, the wine in each barrel has a coating of flor, the layer of yeast that protects the wine from oxidation (and yet, confusing to my palate, laces it with acetaldehyde, adding an aroma that is otherwise a firm feature of oxidation, while the wine remains pale, pure and fresh).

In the occasional barrel the flor would die before its time, exposing the wine to oxygen, and thereby altering how it aged. In this case the cellar master (could you use the word almacenista here? …. probably) would remove the barrel bearing its palo, a downward mark indicating it belonged to the fino solera. This would then be crossed (or cortado) with a second mark to identify the barrel, which is now palo cortado.

Gonzalez Byass Leonor

These days I suspect the production of palo cortado is left less to chance than the traditional description above. It is a very popular style (well, I adore it, anyway) and it seems fairly widely available, often at a good price. As with many sherries I drink, even fino, I find the wine is never at its best on the first day; a day or two open seems to bring it all together with a greater sense of harmony. This was certainly the case here.

The palo cortado style is rather vaguely described as half-amontillado (wines which age protected by flor, initially at least) and half-oloroso (wines which age without flor, i.e. oxidatively). I find it often has a very elegant, poised precision which can be missing from other styles, yet it has the same haunting scent complexity. This bottle, the latest in my Sherry adventures, is a fairly recently-introduced wine from Gonzalez Byass, a palo cortado aged (on average, it will be a blend of different wines) at least twelve years.

The wine, christened Leonor, has a very fine, convincing, toasty hue, with a golden rim. The aromatics seem fairly full on at first, as if they are all jostling for attention, but after some air – by which I really mean a few days of stoppered rest – this really comes together to show a much greater sense of harmony. The nose is one of baked earth, dried citrus zest, white raisins and pepper, with a fine, nutty seam underneath. The palate now feels polished, certainly harmonious, textured with a supple substance, and a dry and complex middle. Importantly, there is great energy to it, with evident zip on the finish. This is long and punchy, and just lovely to drink. 16.5/20 (July 2014)