Arriving just as yesterday’s Renaissance tasting opened its doors – in fact I think I got there ten minutes early – was a real advantage. There are some tables where the crowds are usually three deep, but this early in the day the hall was nearly empty, save for the growers themselves, many of whom were still scurrying about bringing in their last few boxes of samples. And so I kicked off with Richard Leroy, who was pouring his 2012s, as was Virginie Joly (pictured below, sharing a joke on a mobile with Thierry Michon – you could submit your own captions for this but I propose “Look at what that Kissack idiot has said about your wines“). It was nice to see the Joly wines down to just 14% (!!) and seemingly free of significant botrytis on the nose and palate. After tasting with Virginie it was then onto Mark Angeli, followed by the Muscadet domaines of Jo Landron and then Domaine de l’Ecu, with Frédéric Niger van Herck, with Guy Bossard hovering somewhere close by (pictured further down the page); it was interesting to learn of (and taste) new experimental wines from these two domaines, both Melon de Bourgogne fermented in amphorae, but being 2013s these wines are stll embryonic). By the time I finished here the hall was really filling up, and I was glad to have had the chance to chat with these growers before the full assault began.
Thereafter I tasted pretty widely and I have to confess I can’t remember what order things progressed in from here. But it was very good to catch up with Sébastien Riffault, whose 2011s all seem to have a much stronger oxidative character than the more pure, crystalline 2010s last year. In the same part of the world I tasted the wines of Philippe Gilbert which showed nicely. From Touraine I tasted with Yannick Amirault and Sébastien David, both great guys who make excellent wines, one range very pure and traditional, the other completely off-the-wall although the results are very good indeed. I will leave you to figure out which is which.
Some interesting discoveries were made, including Laura Semeria of Château de Montcy, good Romorantin here, and Aymeric Hilaire of Clos Mélaric in Saumur, who makes a very good range of wines, tense and lightly oaked whites and reds that speak of limestone, under the Saumur and Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame appellations.
As always there were some fairly unusual wines here, but it was often the story that was more striking than the wine. Isn’t that often the way? Take the wines of Xavier Caillard for example; just two cuvées, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, both from the 2005 vintage, and both have spent nine years in barrel and are due for bottling this year. Both, remarkably, tasted clean as a whistle and fresh as a daisy.
I did taste elsewhere, Chinon, Coteau de Loir, Jasnières and also a couple of domaines in Bordeaux (again, interesting stories….) but that’s for another time. I’m off for more tasting today. Full notes, new profiles, updates and reports will be published in the subscriber area in the coming months.
PS. As I will be tasting at the Salon on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday this week I won’t be making my usual site updates; normal service will resume Thursday.