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Bordeaux: Off the Beaten Track

After reporting on a good-value Bordeaux earlier this week, the 2010 Château de l’Estang, from the Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, here is another less pricy Bordeaux of some merit. The style here is completely different; whereas the 2010 Castillon majored on Merlot, and showed the purity of fruit from this top-quality vintage very nicely, this wine shows a much more reserved, slightly austere character, which takes some time to really open up in the glass.

Château Bel Air de Royere

This is, I suspect, mainly because we have moved back to the 2008 vintage here, although the fact that this wine includes 30% Malbec in the blend may perhaps also be important. The 2008 Château Bel Air la Royère, from Blaye, has a fresh, fairly dark hue. The nose is attractive, with dark berry fruits, quite tense in its suggestions, lightly smoky and with touches of tobacco leaf, bright and rather keen. The palate is as tense and upright as the nose suggested, although there is a little more supple weight in the middle. A rather firm tannic backbone, with a dry and savoury substance through into the finish, and fresh acidity. It needs food to show its best, but in the right circumstances, it works well. 14.5/20 (December 2013)

Disclosure: This wine was a sample from Cadman Fine Wines.

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