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Four from the Loire

Four very impressive wines from the Loire Valley, three of which were of some age, recently tasted with Jim Budd. My thanks to Jim for pulling the cork on these; the two Chinons in particular were memorable bottles that contributed in no small way to my ever-continuing, life-long Loire education.

Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 1989: Showing some maturity, paling in terms of hue, but still fresh and bright. The aromatics are delightful, fresh and expressive, and increasingly complex the more I return to the wine. There is a sweetness to the fruit still, but also a more savoury and evolved quality reminiscent of black bean and soy sauce, perhaps a little balsamic too. Along with this there is a little sliver of green, but not one that detracts from the wine, but instead lifts it up a level. The palate is evolved, still with appealing substance, and also energetic and firm, with a softening texture and evolved characteristics like those on the nose. So long and full. A superb wine. 18.5/20 (October 2013)

Domaine de la Perrière Chinon Vieilles Vignes 1989: From Jean and Christophe Baudry. The colour here is a little deeper and more confident than the Dioterie from Charles Joguet, tasted alongside. It has a smoky and evolved, lifted nose, not so complex as the Dioterie perhaps, but it does seem to look more clearly to the future. The palate is sweet, evolved, with good flesh and depth, and although the evolution is not as apparent as I would have hoped I have to acknowledge that this wine probably has decades ahead of it yet. All the same, right now it feels energetic and bright, polished and long. A very good wine, and one that is potentially great given time. 18/20 (October 2013)

Château du Breuil Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu 2007: A pale golden hue here, and a very classic nose of honey and mineral-schist, with nuances of cinder toffee. The palate has a very fine freshness to it, a bitter and pithy grip which really appeals, being wholly subsumed by the flesh and concentrated fruit of the midpalate. This is tense, with great grip and pithy acidity through the middle. A classically styled and quite exceptional wine, which could age brilliantly, from a relatively (compared to the greats of Anjou) unsung domaine. 17.5/20 (October 2013)

Domaine Ogereau Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert Cuvée Nectar 1990: An amazing colour, a burnished orange-golden hue, and yet it is bright, with a red-pink hue, almost like a very confused sunset. The nose is redolent of orange zest, coffee and cinder toffee, and shows great character and admirably evolved style. In the mouth it is very rich and broad in keeping with the vintage, and the overall impact of the wine so far. The breadth and sweet polish is matched by some structural elements, which largely come from the bitter grip possessed by the wine, rather than the acidity which seems rather muted, perhaps typical of 1990. The finish is long and pithy, the flavours sweet and tinged with toffee. Overall, this is an excellent wine, and very true to the vintage in question. 17.5/20 (October 2013)

2 Responses to “Four from the Loire”

  1. Chris, what exactly is “cinder toffee”? We in the States are left with an image of caramel with lumps of coal slag in it. Did you mean “cinnamon”? A bit more accessible.


  2. Hi Frank. I’m pretty sure you can get cinder toffee in the USA, but perhaps it goes by a different name – perhaps honeycomb toffee? This Wikipedia page on honeycomb toffee suggests some alternatives including sponge toffee, golden crunchers and hokey pokey. I hope this helps – definitely nothing to do with cinnamon!