I mentioned in my report on the Lebrija Old Oloroso from González Palacios, published at the start of last week, that I also tasted the M. Fina Flor de Lebrija, also from González Palacios, another sample sent by Hyde Park Wines. It’s very good, and deserves writing up.
As I explained in that post, the Lebrija DO is newly created, largely thanks to the efforts of González Palacios. Previously, fruit harvested in this region would have been destined for the bodegas of Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. But the winemakers of Lebrija did not get it all their own way, as they have been prevented from describing their wines as Manzanilla, the wine associated with the latter of these two wine towns. This is what, unofficially of course, the M. in M. Fina stands for.
The González Palacios M. Fina is no ordinary Sherry or Manzanilla look-a-like though, as this wine has spent 12 years aging in cask before bottling. Consequently it has a deeply-coloured straw hue. The nose, though, is vibrant, full of flor notes, with scents of oranges, a little nuttiness too, but overall it is fresh and lively. There follows a confident palate, full, fairly rich, certainly very dry in character, with some nice energy to it. This is nutty, honeyed, and integrated, and best of all it shows great harmony and energy. 15.5/20 (September 2013)