Despite my continued hankerings Burgundy remains a niche interest on Winedoctor. I think it is a region you have to know really well in order to make any informed comment of interest to knowledgeable Burgundy drinkers. For that reason (it’s not just that I’m short of time – although that’s true as well) it is a region I touch upon when the opportunity presents itself, rather than me chasing the experience.
These two wines are one such opportunity. The domaine is one I am reasonably familiar with (my way of saying I have a few bottles in the cellar). Now in the hands of Comte and Comtesse Aymard-Claude de Nicolay, the domaine is I think a good source of wines away from the top tier appellations, with a portfolio that is centred on and around Corton, including Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses.
These two wines are barrel samples from the 2010 vintage. I have thus marked with ranged scores. I have also included prices for cases, in bond, from stockist Bancroft Wines.
Chandon de Briailles Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières 2010: A good depth of colour here. And a characterful nose, with a good intensity to the fruit, vibrant but rich, with the depth of dark cherry but with the brightness of loganberry, and a twist of grey smoke. It has a rather granular depth to it, and overall it seems to have promise. This comes across as a confident character on the palate, with full fruit but also a crunchy definition, and the grip of good structure. A very convincing palate, broad and with appealing flesh. Overall, very good. 15-16/20 (May 2012) (£235 per case, in bond)
Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses 2010: Dark cherry fruit here, showing a good intensity of aroma with savoury elements to it redolent of mushroom and truffle, but there is an appealing freshness and vibrancy to it as well. Less granular than the Savigny tasted alongside, a more integrated, admittedly chocolate-tinged polish here. Full, rich, but with a more silky tone to the structure and overall composition which I like. This is certainly no delicate lightweight though, as there is substance and potential here beneath the flavour and definition. Good potential here. 15.5-16.5/20 (May 2012) (£265 per case, in bond)