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The Ledbury, East Coast Trains & Churchill

No connection between these three (as far as I know), just two recent food/wine events worth noting and the painful journeys involved.

I spent a lot of time trying to catch up with myself last week, which was particularly difficult considering I dedicated most of Friday travelling to London for lunch at the Ledbury in Notting Hill, a gathering in honour of the presence of Eric LeVine, of Cellar Tracker. Both my journeys were complicated by East Coast trains reducing services, using the recent weather as an excuse. The 5:50am from Edinburgh was cancelled leaving us all to board the 6:00am instead, a slower train which arrives in London 30 minutes later. On the return journey, my train to Edinburgh terminated early at Newcastle; although most trains are full when they leave London at this point they are probably less than half-full, so it is viable for the company to shove everybody off and make you wait for the next train, thus saving them a few quid. I spent an unexpected 30 minutes on a freezing platform eating a disgusting sandwich and drinking a disgusting coffee from the Costa bar. Yuk.

Was lunch at the Ledbury worth these near-10 hours of travelling? Yes! It was a superb meal, which I will have to write up for Winedoctor. I am trying to include notes on meals beyond the boundaries of Edinburgh (although I am usually failing!). Suffice to say for now it was a stunning four-course lunch. It was notable that when I sat down I was eating in a 1-star restaurant, but when I got up to leave later it had 2 stars, as the Michelin awards for 2010 were released as we dined. It was a well deserved promotion for proprietor Nigel Platts-Martin and chef Brett Graham.

The vinous highlight of the weekend that followed was this bottle, the 1993 Winston Churchill from Pol Roger. I’m committed to drinking more Champagne at the moment, especially in anticipation of my new Champagne guide to be added to the site this year. I’m not sure what prompted me to open it, save perhaps the only experience at the Ledbury which I found a tad disappointing. With the news of their elevation to 2-star status (or at least that was the excuse!), the ever generous Linden Wilkie of Fine Wine Experiences produced, as if by magic, a magnum of 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé for everybody to toast the chef. It was a big-hearted gesture which I am sure we all appreciated, but coming after 14 other wines, including three dessert wines (a Vouvray which I provided, a sweet Austrian Pinot Noir and a Tokaji) as well as a sweet amuse and a plate of caramelised banana galette with ice cream the wine certainly didn’t receive the attention (or the palate) that it deserved. Tasted under such conditions, I won’t be able to write the wine up… a great shame.

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