The Salons of Angers, Day 5
The final day of the Salon des Vins de Loire is, sadly, always dominated by the long trek home. A bus down to the station, a train to Paris (with two changes for added fun this year), several hours of hanging about in Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, then the flight home. Sometimes I think the airport wait is the worst part of it. Despite being a huge international hub, the facilities are lacking. After security there was only one café serving hot food, which I couldn’t even chase down with a coffee because their hot-beverage-pretending-to-be-coffee machine was broken. The options for shopping, if you are into that sort of thing, include gift shops selling over-priced and rather tatty gifts (pots of foie gras, factory-made macarons, that sort of thing), hugely expensive fripperies from branded stores such as Prada, Cartier, Hermès or Dior (scarves for €350, watches for €7500), and a rip-off upmarket-booze-and-fag store. The price of Bordeaux on sale here particularly took the biscuit – how about Château Pouget for €121? I snapped the price label below before being told photography was interdit. I’m not surprised – if I was running a business selling wine at such rip-off prices to unsuspecting travellers with more money than sense I would also want to suppress wider knowledge of these prices.
And to cap it all, when I logged on to the free wi-fi, I couldn’t look at any wine sites, because apparently they contravene the ethical rules of the airport (the blocking page puts wine up there with sites encouraging terrorism, domestic violence and unusual sexual tastes). So it’s not just the English Chief Medical Officer who has it in for wine, I see. By coincidence (I am sure), the block prevents access to informed opinion on wine quality and prices, about which the booze-and-fag retailer must be delighted.
Alright, what about the last day (or rather morning – I left just after lunch) at the Salon? It was pretty busy, with more frenzied tasting as the hours rattled on. I visited Sancerre, Vouvray, Montlouis, the Coteaux de l’Aubance and perhaps one or two other appellations that have slipped my mind. Looking back over the five days, I have of course tasted a lot of wines. Hundreds of wines, although I wouldn’t like to hazard a more accurate a guess than that. I have covered dozens of domaines, from Muscadet and the Fiefs Vendéens all the way up to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and on to the upper reaches of the Loire. And yet these days my interest in the domaines of the Loire Valley is so broad I didn’t have time to taste everywhere. This year I omitted, purely through lack of time rather than any plan, a couple of notable Anjou domaines where I would normally taste. My apologies to anyone who was disappointed when I didn’t roll up at your stand, glass in hand; I just couldn’t spread myself thinly enough to get to you.
For every domaine that misses out, however, I taste somewhere else that is new to me, or catch up with a grower I haven’t tasted with for a few years. This year for example, I caught up with Damien Laureau, who I haven’t tasted with for about two years; as he is one of the top-tier winegrowers in Savennieres, that’s an important tasting. I also tasted with Ludovic Chanson, whose first vintages I found impressive when I tasted them in London about three years ago, and this was my first chance to check them out again. That’s important too. I also tasted with Tanguy Perrault from Vouvray, the first time since the summer of 2014; it is vital to return to see how these young up-and-coming growers are getting along. And I tasted with Romain Guiberteau (or rather with Robert, his father), who I haven’t seen at the Salon before. A leading domaine in the Saumur appellation, who wouldn’t want to check these wines out?
So, while I used every minute productively, I have to think of some solutions to this failure to taste everything, everywhere. The obvious answer is to return to the Loire again, which of course I will do. I have already warned Matthieu Baudry, Anne-Charlotte Genet and Jérome Billard that I will be coming to see them in July. I will make other visits too; probably Yannick and Benoit Amirault, maybe good old Couly-Dutheil, who knows? Other solutions and suggestions, such as looking at other Loire wine fairs (I hear rumours about a new Loire fair in Paris), or other fairs where Loire growers exhibit, are welcome.