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2011 Wine in Context: Your Turn

I'm delighted that this year as last year, Winedoctor readers have been sending their favourite wine in context moments of 2011, and the fourth and final set of submissions are published here.

If you aren't sure what Wine in Context is all about, think of it as your favourite wine-related moment of 2011, but where instead of focusing on an intrinsically great wine, we look at the synthesis of life and wine. So it's not about those magnums of 2000 Le Pin and 2001 Yquem you knocked back with last Saturday's burger and fries, it's more about that bottle of Touraine Sauvignon which just sang with your little pyramid of Valençay goat's cheese, as you lay stretched out on a blanket on the sandy banks of the Vienne, or perhaps the time you spent with good friends, old or new, over some special bottles. Maybe you made your own wine for the first time? Or maybe the wine was there to lubricate some great celebration? Whatever it is, it's about context, not just the wine.

The first of these two final submissions tell us of the joy of touring and tasting in France's south-western appellations. The second would only be diminished by some sound-bite introduction; I can only suggest you read it..... (19/1/12)

Tasting wine at the vineyard can be special, as a supporter of South West French wine my wife and I have enjoyed visits to various locations and have included three from the last 12 months that have that something special.

Firstly, Producteurs Plaimont, St Mont. Producing almost 100% of the St Mont appellation wines this co-operative proved to be a real eye opener. The Tannat based red wines were accessible (for Tannat) full of liquorice and baked fruits and the Manseng based whites were exotic, fruity, deep and long. The pick of the wines were the red and white Le Faite with their somewhat odd wooden 'labels' and waxed corks and the whit L'Empreinte. To add to this was the attentive, enthusiastic welcome from the winemaker, proving that co-ops are live and well in France.

Second Domaine Berthoumieu, Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. We have visited Didier Barres vineyard on a couple of occasions, a charming host who beams with delight at every affirmation of the quality of his wines. His top red cuvee Charles De Batz (the real D'Artagnan) is Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon and a splendid masculine Madiran with red fruits and spices dominating. His sweet Pacherenc, Symphonie d'Automne is full of peach and apricot, not cloying but light and long, top that off with his fortified red Tannatis - made from 100% Tannat - a lovely fruity port styled wine.

Last but definitely not least Domaine De Souch, Jurançon. Winding through the hills south of Pau we found this small domaine at the end of a rough track, the welcome from owner Yvonne Hégoburu was touching and will remain with me for a long time. It was as if we were family or long lost friends. Now in her 80s she was anxious to show us the views of the Pyrenees from the vines, she obviously loved the place, her dogs and her wines. Her winemaker treated us to a superb tasting of dry and sweet wines of great length and elegance based on Manseng grapes. The whole experience was seductive almost to the point where a return visit may break the spell. Yvonne can be see in the opening shots of the film Mondovino.

To me the wines and the experiences we have had tasting them amongst the vines epitomise the nature of the land and the Gascon people, relaxed, warm and welcoming. I hope this may encourage others to visit this wonderful area and enjoy the underrated wines.

David, thanks for submitting these thoughts; they illustrate very clearly to me an important facet of true wine 'appreciation' - which is that there is a lot to be gained from a little wine-related touring and tasting. To stand among the vines, drink up (sometimes literally!) the local culture and way of life and to meet the people responsible for the wines can have unparalleled effects - Chris.

For over 30 years now I have been a lover of all kinds of wines. A bit of a passionate collector too. I've drunk a lot of good quality stuff over the years. Doing so left me with a lot of dear friends. Being a true fan since 2007 of the “Winedoctor” I learned even more about wine and enjoyed a glass of good wine every day. My life was good.

Then on 12th September 2010 our 21 year old son Rob died in a road traffic accident being the passenger of a car. Our world collapsed and since then only pain, grief and sorrow were our companions. I lost my taste for wine all together and sold my whole wine cellar. I didn’t touch a glass of wine for almost 6 months.

Then in March 2011 our best friends, who had known our son as their own, invited us for a meal. With some nice cheeses my friend André poured a nice glass of Sessantanni Primitivo di Manduria 2005 San Marzano from the Puglia region in Italy. The wine was totally new for me and drinking this wine was a revelation. It was like a message from our son telling me to try to enjoy life again. That wine at that moment was the start of my second wine life. Since that moment I have learned again to enjoy the best beverage known to man. As my son would have wanted me to. That’s why the Sessantanni Primitivo di Manduria 2005 San Marzano is absolutely my wine of the year 2011. There are many to follow, I’m sure.

Friendly regards and hope to enjoy the Winedoctor for many years to come.

William, thank you so much for that submission. I'm sure it must have been very difficult to write, and I'm glad that you consented to its publication. If there has ever been a post to illustrate how wine and life intertwine - and not always in an easy, light-hearted or joyous manner - then it is yours. My deepest thanks again - Chris.

Wine in Context moments don't have to concern only great or expensive wines to qualify, it's the context that I'm looking for! Submissions for the 2011 report are now closed, my thanks to all who submitted. Fear not, I will be back in December looking for this year's submissions, so don't forget to make a note of your best (or worst) wine in context moments of 2012 in readiness!