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Annual Review 2003

Continuing with the format which I implemented last year - other than splitting the dessert/fortified category into two - here are my wine awards for 2003. It's been a tough year, and there may be a few surprises yet to come - in the next two weeks I have a Ten Year On tasting to attend, followed by a Ten Year On dinner which I am hosting. If these turn up any gems, I reserve the right to change the awards below! It's not likely to happen though. These wines take some beating! (2/12/03)

Winedoctor Wines of the Year

White: Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999
A difficult category this year. Although the number of eligible wines was not huge, quality was extremely high, and selecting one winner was near impossible. Elegance, style and ripe stone fruit were the hallmarks of Château de Fieuzal Blanc 1994, whereas Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc 2001 impressed with it's bitter quinine-like grip and opulent texture. Olivier Humbrecht takes the prize, although only by a whisker, with this young Gewürztraminer from his most famous clos, which has so much potential for the future, yet is delicious now.

Red: Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico 'TB' 1997
The most hotly contested category by far, there is always a lengthy decision process behind this award. My recent exploration of Italian wine threw up a number of contenders. From Veneto, the  Allegrini Amarone Classico 1995 really impressed, although Tommaso Bussola was the clear winner - this has world class quality. From Tuscany, the Argiano Brunello 1997 and Poliziano Vino Nobile 'Asinone' 1999 were definite contenders - although my notes show that the Argiano misses out by a few weeks - I popped this one in December 2002. Piedmont was led by the Enzo Boglietti Barolo 'Case Nere' 1997 and the Gaja 'Sito Moresco' 1996. Moving away from Italy, the Beaucastel 2001, tasted in its sweet youth, showed obvious class and potential, as did the Gruaud-Larose 2000 - first growth quality without a doubt. At the other end of the age spectrum, Pichon-Lalande 1983 was a real contender, shining in a tasting of the 1983 vintage, and a recently opened Delas Hermitage Les Bessards 1990 was also superb. A tasting of Vega Sicilia Unico - with vintages back to 1942 - threw up a few contenders, and on looking back through my notes I do wonder whether I should have picked Vega Sicilia Unico 1991 for my red wine of the year - it was, after all, stunning. With some deliberation, however, I've settled on the Amarone from Tommaso Bussola, with it's intriguing combination of power and elegance.

Fizz: Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque 1990
Not a wine I have always enjoyed in the past, as it suffers from some bottle variation I think. Nevertheless a bottle opened as part of a Perrier Jouët tasting impressed with it's finesse and elegance. I think the Moët et Chandon Dom Perignon 1995, the only serious contender from 2003, will be a greater wine one day (a different style, of course) but it needs time in the cellar. Right now, for me, the Belle Epoque takes it.

Dessert: Champalou Vouvray Cuvée Catherine 1996
Absolutely stunning! I paired this wine, sometimes also referred to as Cuvée CC, with some Cropwell Bishop stilton for a late-night supper - what an experience! The fresh acidity and pure flavours were the perfect match for the cheese, but the wine was magnificent in it's own right. Such purity, focus and finesse I did not encounter at any other time during the year. There was strong competition - similar styles from Huet and Pierre-Bise in particular.

Fortified: Grahams Vintage Port 1983
With such an obvious, runaway winner for dessert wine of the year, I felt I had to create a separate opportunity for fortified wines. Port dominates the competition here, with both young and mature wines - no surprises here in view of my currently ongoing series of Port House Profiles. These include the impressive 2000 vintage Ports from Quinta do Noval and Sandeman, as well as more mature bottles of the 1983 vintage from Taylors and Calem. The Warres Traditional LBV Port 1992 was another serious contender that also offered excellent value for money

The church spire of Vouvray visible from Clos du BourgWinedoctor Awards

Most impressive producer: Domaine Huet
With my summer break in the Loire it's no surprise that great producers such as Domaine Huet should find their way into my annual review. My 'impressive producer' award is all about consistency as well as quality, as illustrated by last year's winner Vieux Chateau Certan - I tasted six wines and rated all as excellent. This year Domaine Huet takes the crown. I tasted at the domaine this summer, and was impressed by the consistency of quality across a range of wines and vintages.

Tasting bottles from my own cellar, including the Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1962, only served to drive the point home. A name to trust. The leading runner-up was Chateau Pierre Bise, with Pontet Canet and Leoville Poyferre trailing somewhat.

Biggest disappointment: Bordeaux 1997
Last year it was Bordeaux 1975, this year 1997. Do I have something against Bordeaux? Not at all - it is the focus of my cellar, and the majority of the tastings published on The Winedoctor concern Bordeaux. But that doesn't mean I can't recognise the failings of the region, and 1997 was one such failing. Some tout the wines as 'early-drinking'  - they have certainly matured quickly - and therefore 'ideal for the restaurant', and indeed one or two have been lovely - I've thoroughly enjoyed bottles of Poujeaux and Sociando Mallet - although both were certainly at their best in 2001-2002. The majority of wines I have tasted since, however, have been found lacking - disjointed, green, thin - indeed there are some dreadful wines out there. Poor quality, whatever the asking price, which brings us to the matter of cost. It was also an over-hyped, over-priced vintage. A thumbs down all round from me.

Best retailer: Stone, Vine & Sun
Having decided on The Beautiful South as my tasting theme for 2003-2004, I then found I was struggling to locate the necessary wines. Some merchants had one or two interesting bottles, but after adding in shipping on such small consignments the costs begin to soar. To the rescue came a couple of merchants, of which one in particular really impressed. Stone, Vine & Sun is a UK mail order business set up by a group of wine fanatics in Winchester, Hampshire. The name of the business refers to the three most important influences on the grape, and clearly demonstrates the ethos of the firm. The list contains dozens of real wines connected to their places of origin, not commercial, manufactured, acidified, alcoholic grape juice. Some great names, from interesting regions such as the Languedoc, the Rhône, Burgundy and South Africa. More power to their elbow.

Best bargain: Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1988
I'm supping a bottle of this as I write. I purchased this wine in 2002, but it is only now I realise what a bargain I have. This was because the first one or two bottles showed a trace of oxidation - not enough to spoil the experience, mind - but the price seemed appropriate. The last couple of bottles, however, have been really singing, showing almost creamy fruit over stunning acidity that should keep this wine fresh for years. And there's a real complexity beginning to fan out on the finish. Lovely now, and I suspect the rest of my case will drink beautifully for years to come - although I expect there to be some bottle variation. The price? A mere £8.50 per bottle, at fourteen years of age. What a bargain!