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Annual Review 2001

This year I'm publishing my Wines of the Year a little earlier, whilst we're all still in the festive spirit, and perhaps in a reflective mood. When I started looking back over my tasting notes for 2001 I was in a slightly pessimistic mood, as I was unsure whether I would be able to draw up a decent list of contenders for the awards. What a short memory I must have! Suffice to say I have tasted some splendid wines during the past twelve months. Some of the contenders came from from my own cellar, some came from formal tastings with my local tasting group, and a number were from public tastings. This demonstrates how vital it is to attend such tastings in order to experience the broadest possible range of styles and quality.

Sparkling Wine

There have been some superb examples of both vintage and NV Champagne this year, although it has not been too difficult to pick a winner. I enjoyed a selection of prestige cuvées including Lanson Noble Cuvee 1989 and Dom Pérignon 1992, although a number of straight vintage wines also greatly impressed. These included Bollinger Grand Année 1995, Louis Roederer Brut Vintage 1994, R de Ruinart Brut 1990, Lanson Gold Label Vintage 1994 & 1995 and Taittinger Vintage Brut 1995. My overall winner, however, is a wine that has garnered much praise from a number of critics. I picked up half a case earlier this year and was greatly impressed when I sampled the first bottle.

This year I've also decided to add in an award for top NV wine, simply because one wine made a significant impression. There are great NV wines currently available from Taittinger and Roederer, but for the second year in a row Charles Heidsieck takes a prize, this year for a wine from their NV Mis en Caves range.

Examples of fizz from the New World have been few and far between this year. With such a paltry number of possible winners, I would usually refrain from making any award, but one wine was sufficiently impressive for me to make it my choice.

Top Vintage Champagne of 2001: Pol Roger Brut 1990

Top Non-Vintage Champagne of 2001: Charles Heidsieck Mis en Caves 1996 Brut Réserve NV

Top New World Sparkling Wine of 2001: Louis Roederer Quartet NV

White Wine

Last year I had little difficulty in choosing a top Old World white, as one wine stood head and shoulders above all the others. This year the choice has required more thought, and it came down to just two wines, which were very different styles. Unsurprisingly in view of my current exploration of the region, the wines of Alsace feature in my list of top wines. Kuentz-Bas Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Eichberg 1996 was the wine that nearly took the title, as it impressed with fine elegance and superlative balance. Other top Alsatians include Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence 1996 and Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rotenberg 1998. Top wines from Burgundy include two young ones from Vincent Girardin - the Meursault les Narvaux 1999 and Puligny Montrachet "Les Enseignières" 1999. From the Rhône, I enjoyed both the Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 1999 and Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc 2000. The overall winner was also from the Rhône, and in fact is a different vintage of the aforementioned Condrieu.

From the New World, only a few wines really impressed. These included the Petaluma Chardonnay 1997 and Tarrawarra Chardonnay 1997. The eventual winner, however, impressed with it's individuality and potential for future drinking, as it is only just emerging from its first flourish of youth. I'll be holding back my remaining bottles for five to ten years at least.

The Christoffel-Berres Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1993 was a top competitor for the Budget white award, but another wine stood out as an obvious choice for winner - the Domaine des Deux Roches Mâcon-Davayé 1999. Proof that good value Burgundy does exist.

Top Old World White Wine of 2001: Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets Vieilles Vignes 1997

Top New World White Wine of 2001: Tyrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1992

Budget White Wine of 2001: Domaine des Deux Roches Mâcon-Davayé 1999

Red Wine

Like last year, this is where the choice becomes really difficult. From Bordeaux, vertical tastings of Rauzan-Ségla and Léoville-Barton contained some delightful wines. Other clarets worth mentioning include Chateau Palmer 1989 and 1981, Chateau Pavie 1989, Chateau Margaux 1981, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1981 and Chateau Pichon-Lalande 1991 - a superb effort from a weak vintage.

From the Rhone, another vertical tasting, this time of Beaucastel included some truly great wines. Other worthy wines include a selection all from the 1990 vintage, including Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert and St-Joseph Le Grand Pompée, both from Jaboulet, as well as three contenders which were also mentioned when tasted last year, Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude, Albert Belle Hermitage and Auguste Clape Cornas. Also impressive were the aged Chave Hermitage 1982 and the youthful Delas Hermitage Les Bessards 1996.

Outside of these regions other memorable wines include the Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja 1989 and Torre Muga Rioja 1994, both of which require some cellar-time before I would broach another bottle. Another great wine in the making was Chateau Musar 1994.

Choices from the New World included Penfolds Grange 1993, Jim Barry Armagh 1994, Katnook Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, and from Peter Lehmann, the Stonewell Shiraz 1995. Outside of Australia I was impressed by the Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1991, a wine produced in what was a great vintage for California.

Budget wines include La Vieille Ferme Cotes de Ventoux 1999 from Domaines Perrin, of Beaucastel fame, as well as another great value wine from the sunny parts of France, Les Vignerons du Val d'Orbieu La Cuvée Mythique 1998. From South Africa, the Graham Beck Shiraz 1999 impressed with its chocolatey richness. The overall winner here, however, came from Oz.

Top Old World Red Wine of 2001: Rauzan-Ségla 1985

Top New World Red Wine of 2001: Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Shiraz 1997

Budget Red Wine of 2001: Schrapel Family Bethany Grenache 1999

Dessert Wines

Enjoyable Tokay and Jurançon in the form of Disznókö Tokáji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 1993 and Clos Guirouilh Moelleux Jurançon 1994 this year - and this latter wine would win the budget sweet category if I were in the mood to create one, as I parted with just £6 for this pineapple and tropical fruit laden gem. From slightly further north came the excellent Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes 1986, but to find my Old World sweetie of the year it is east we must travel. Although the Hugel Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 1997 was lovely, it was no match for the eventual winner, a stunningly fine and balanced wine.

From the New World, I recently tasted the Mission Hill Family Estate Vidal Icewine Reserve VQA Okanagan 1998 and thought it had very good potential, although somewhat prominent acidity for drinking now. The winner was a much more approachable Australian example.

Top Old World Dessert Wine of 2001: Kuentz-Bas Tokay Pinot Gris VT Cuvée Caroline 1996

Top New World Dessert Wine of 2001: Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling 1998

Fortified & LIqueur Wines

I've tasted a few lovely Ports during 2001, although in the main these were single Quinta Ports rather than Vintage. I enjoyed Dows Quinta do Bomfim 1986 and 1987, Grahams Quinta dos Malvedos 1984 and Taylors Quinta de Vargellas 1987. The award, however, goes to a different style of Port, and unusually I have decided to hedge my vintages (tut-tut!) and the accolade goes to two LBV's from Warre’s.

Little in the way of stunning wines from the New World in the fortified section this year, although I did enjoy the Brown Brothers Liqueur Muscat NV which I tasted in just the past few weeks. Such a dearth of wines, however, has resulted in no award in this category this year.

Top Old World Fortified/Liqueur Wine of 2001: Warres LBV 1990/1992

Top New World Fortified/Liqueur Wine of 2001: No award

Conclusion

So after initial trepidation, a review of my tasting notes reveals that, if anything, I'm drinking more and more finer wines than ever before. And as with last year, where my tasting notes revealed a new desire for the wines of Burgundy, this year my notes are more influenced by Alsace, with wines from Kuentz-Bas in particular taking awards for top Old World dessert wine and just missing out on an award for top Old World white. Next year, with a fine selection of German Rieslings lined up for my Wine Saga, I would imagine they will put up a strong showing. Only time will tell.