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Annual Review 2000

Even before I began writing The Winedoctor, at this time of year I would always take a few moments to look back over the past twelve months and see which wines, wineries, wine styles and winemakers really impressed.

Two Christmas wines were serious contenders for 'wine of the year' status this year, these being the Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires Brut 1985 and Lanson Gold Label Brut 1989. A tasting of 1989 vintage Champagne attended during the summer also contained a wealth of excellent wines, my favourite on the night being Bonnet 1989. Some excellent NV Champagnes were consumed, and whereas Perrier Jouet, Veuve Cliquot and Bollinger were all lovely, Charles Heidsieck outshone them all with the Mis en Caves 1993 Brut Réserve NV closely followed by the 1994 cellaring. These were both delightful wines, and have been sufficiently stimulating for me to seek out other examples from the Mis en Caves range. One other worthy mention is Gosset, who impressed with both NV and vintage cuvées, tasted in November.

Looking beyond Champagne, the New World has produced some decent sparklers in recent times. Queen of them all is the Nyetimber Première Cuvée Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Brut 1992 (considering the UK as 'New World' where quality wine is concerned), a truly lovely wine, it surpassed all my expectations. Tasted blind in a comparative tasting of English sparkling wines and NV Champagnes, the Nyetimber blew away the competition. Stunning stuff.

Top Champagne of 2000: Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires Brut 1985

Top New World Sparkling Wine of 2000: Nyetimber Première Cuvée Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Brut 1992

White Wine

I have found, over the course of the year, that my consumption of white wine has continued to fall, particularly when you look beyond the budget midweek bottles. Nevertheless, there have been some excellent wines, particularly amongst the Burgundies. Two that spring to mind were Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon Vieilles Vignes 1988 and Patriarche Père et Fils Château de Meursault, Meursault 1994. Both were excellent, mature examples of their respective appellations, although Defaix does tend to make somewhat atypical wines for his region. My tasting note of this wine simply ends "stunning". When out at tastings I was also impressed by Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet Les Truffières 1998 and Domaine de la Maladière Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 1990.

From the New World, the choice is even more limited. The Rosemount Roxburgh Chardonnay 1994 was excellent, but as I consumed this four days into 2001 it is excluded on this technicality! The Rosemount Show Reserve Chardonnay 1997, however, is eligible. To broaden my choice in this category I have to look to some of the tastings I attended, and here the Chardonnays currently coming out of South Africa were very impressive, namely the Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 1998 and the Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 1999. Other noteworthy wines included the Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1997.

Budget white wines are difficult to choose, particularly with a stringent £8 cut off point. The floral, blossom laden Pewsey Vale Individual Vineyard Selection Riesling 1998, however, was a perfect accompaniment to a midsummer evening in the garden.

Top Old World White Wine of 2000: Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon Vieilles Vignes 1988

Top New World White Wine of 2000: Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay 1998

Budget White Wine of 2000: Pewsey Vale Individual Vineyard Selection Riesling 1998

Red Wine

This is where it always gets really difficult. So many wines to choose from. I've tasted fine clarets from mainly 1982, 1983 and 1990, but in truth it would be easier to document which vintages of the 1980s and 1990s I haven't sampled. I've also had a few older wines, back to the 1964 vintage, and have tried a number of first growths and numerous second growths. Outside Bordeaux, I've sampled top Rhônes and have drunk some delicious Burgundies at home.

Contenders from Bordeaux include Latour 1983 and 1964, Lafite Rothschild 1983, Pichon-Lalande 1983, Le Bon Pasteur 1985 and Vieux Chateau Certan 1982, as well as a host of other classed growth and right bank wines.

Top Northern Rhônes included Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1989, a stunning wine tasted early in the year before the launch of The Winedoctor, as well as a trio from the lovely 1990 vintage - Albert Belle Hermitage, Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude and Clape Cornas. From the Southern Rhône, notable wines included Beaucastel 1989 and 1990, Vieux Telegraphe 1989 and Pégau 1989.

During the course of the year I've had some really lovely wines from Burgundy, but the one that stood head and shoulders above the rest was Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1996, an estate now controlled by Antonin Rodet. An absolutely stunning wine.

With the New World I have been generally less overwhelmed. The St. Hallett Old Block Shiraz 1990 and Martinborough Vineyards Pinot Noir 1990 were both enjoyable. Other wines include Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz 1996 and two from Rosemount - the GSM 1996 and Show Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994.

With budget red wines the choice is considerably greater than with the whites, and notables include Sebastieni Pepperwood Grove Zinfandel 1996, La Cuvée Mythique 1997, Nicolas Catena Argento Malbec 1999 and Clos Malverne Basket Pressed Pinotage 1998. The top wine, however proved to be another South African.

Top Old World Red Wine of 2000: Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix 1996

Top New World Red Wine of 2000: St. Hallett Old Block Shiraz 1990

Budget Red Wine of 2000: Klein Constantia Shiraz 1997

Dessert Wines

If one wine style proved its worth in 2000 it has to be this one. Previously I had only a passing interest in such wines, but over the last year I have come to truly adore them, particularly the wines of the Loire Valley and Sauternes.

From the Old World, the 1990 vintage produced my most memorable experiences. Although I enjoyed the Doisy-Dubroca Sauternes immensely, it was a trio of Loire wines that really shone. Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Moelleux, Champalou Vouvray Moelleux and Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Moelleux were all stunning.

From the New World, although I found the De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 1996 to be an improvement on the 1995 vintage, the truly stunning wine was the Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991. Incredible wine, sadly unavailable in the UK due to legal problems concerning potential alcohol, the same foolish legislation that prevents us enjoying the fabulous ice wines of Canada in this country.

Top Old World Dessert Wine of 2000: Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Moelleux 1990

Top New World Dessert Wine of 2000: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991

Fortified & Liqueur Wines

I tasted my way through a few Ports in 2000, and the top LBV was undoubtedly Quinta do Noval 1991, although the Quinta do Crasto 1995 was also very good. As for vintage Port, the Dow's and Warre's 1985 wines were excellent, but the top wine wins on the basis of it's elegant, velvety texture, nothing at all to do with the fact it comes from my birth year!

New World fortified wines aren't usually a big feature in my drinking, but this will have to change after this year. Although I found the D'Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz 1997 and 1998 very easy drinking, the winner is a classic Australian Muscat, a style that predates the modern, dry table wines by a century or more.

Top Old World Fortified/Liqueur Wine of 2000: Dow's Vintage Port 1970

Top New World Fortified/Liqueur Wine of 2000: Seppelt Show Muscat D.P. 63 1998 bottling

Conclusion

The wines here tell a story. The development of a love of Burgundy for a start, as a young Nuits St Georges takes the award ahead of a combination of mature Clarets and Rhônes. Also it reveals a burgeoning desire for the sweet wines of the Loire Valley. And I don't suppose it is any coincidence that the Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991 is made from Chenin Blanc, the same grape that grows in the Loire appellations of Vouvray and Coteaux du Layon. The year ahead will no doubt include a search for more of these wines, particularly from the 1996 vintage, which seems to be rated very highly by many critics. It will include more Burgundy, but also a change of direction during the summer, as I begin to focus on the wines of Germany and Alsace.