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Dinstlgut Loiben

Dinstlgut Loiben Dinstlgut Loiben is a co-operative turning out a range of high quality, good value wines that typify, in style, what Austria has to offer. This is a welcome addition to any Austrian wine list, which are usually dominated by more pricy examples from the likes of Knoll, Pichler and Bründlmayer. If you want to dip your toe into Austrian wine, Dinstlgut Loiben is one of just a few excellent places to start.

The origin of the Dinstlgut Loiben estate lies in 1830, when the cellar and 52 ha of vineyards were purchased from the church by Dr Ferdinand Dinstl, although in truth this only provides us with the origin of the name. The Felsenkellar (right) was carved into the rock a thousand years or so ago, and the region has seen extensive viticulture for a comparable length of time. The Dinstl line, however, ran the estate until 1930 when, following the death of Hedwig Dinstl, there was no heir to take on the running of the property. At this a collection of 42 local growers, under the leadership of Richard Weinauer, purchased the business, and so the family estate morphed into a co-operative. In recent times, Elisabeth Altenriederer, a trained oenologist employed by the co-operative to direct sales and promotion, has taken on full managerial responsibility for the business. Under Elisabeth, ably assisted by Herbert Rohrauer and Robert Krammer, the co-operative has continued to go from strength to strength, helped no doubt by a portfolio of over 230 ha of vines.

Elisabeth has fashioned a range of wines in which Austria's unique selling point, Grüner Veltliner, features heavily, as well as Riesling, which is equally successful in my opinion. Like other portfolios, however, there are other whites, reds and even a very good Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, which is produced in necessarily very small quantities. The fruit is sourced from a variety of high quality vineyards around Loiben, including Loibenberg and Schütt in Wachau, and Pfaffenberg in Kremstal, and over 300 growers are associated with Dinstlgut Loiben. The philosophy centres around capturing the fruit and producing wines which are always enjoyable to drink, and with that in mind much of the range is bottled under screwcap. For those in Austria who would like to taste the wines of Dinstlgut Loiben, the estate's Felsenkellar, a breath-taking work of excavation, is well worth a visit, and is now put to use as an atmospheric tasting room. (10/1/06)

Contact details:
Address: Dinstlgut Loiben, A-3601 Unterloiben 51, Wachau
Telephone: +43 (0) 2732 85516
Fax: +43 (0) 2732 85516 25
Internet: www.dinstlgut.at

Dinstlgut Loiben - Tasting Notes

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2004

Dinstlgut Loiben Bergfee Grüner Veltliner Kabinett 2004: Bottled under synthetic closure. An aromatic, clean, fresh nose. Lovely, delicate, spring dew palate, fresh with fine acidity. Nicely structured, unobtrusive style. This would be a very good foil for many foods. 15/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Schütt Grüner Veltliner 2004: Fresh, stone fruit nose, with a more characterful, mineral style. Fresh, mineral and floral character. Plenty of good crisp acidity on the palate, with a moderate weight. Good. 16/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Pfaffenberg Grüner Veltliner Kabinett 2004: A much broader nose here, fuller, exhibiting much more fruit. Also some herbal elements. Fresh, with good weight on the palate, and an appealing acid structure. Floral notes on the finish. Good. 15/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner 2004: From a terraced vineyard. Only bottled one month prior to tasting. Much more exotic and open than the previous wines. Stone fruit notes. Great depth, more pepper notes, a classic yet evocative style. May improve. Very good. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben St Quirin Riesling 2004: Bottled under cork. A basic cuvée. A light, delicate, peachy nose. Nicely balanced palate, fresh and mineral, with a little depth. Current drinking. Good for what it is. 14.5/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Pfaffenberg Riesling 2004: Rather shy on the nose here. Floral, a little spice, clean style. Somewhat rounder on the palate, bone dry, with appealing stone fruit. Some appealing length here. Good. 15/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Loibenberg Riesling 2004: Very expressive nose, showing a wealth of apricot and white fruits. Very slightly off-dry on the palate, with lovely depth, and a touch of velvet to the texture. Fresh, with a little grip. This is good. 16.5/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Weissburgunder 2004: Fresh style again, very clean, seems very much to be the house style at Loiben. Full, spicy-peppery on the palate. A little nutty element follows on. This is good, and will appeal to many. 15.5/20 (May 2005)

Dinstlgut Loiben Liupna-Loibner Cuvée 2004: A blend of Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Muskadelle and Traminer. A very fruit driven style, forward, refreshing, with a little residual sugar providing for a rounded mouthfeel. Very decent. 15/20 (May 2005)

2003

Dinstlgut Loiben Zweigelt Reserve 2003: Only in bottle for one month, following stainless steel fermentation and fourteen months in new 300 litre oak casks. Very obvious liquorice, spice and vanilla character, oak-derived, with some spicy red fruit. Peppery grip, sweet red fruits and leather, with a soft and rounded feel. Good. 15/20 (May 2005)

2002

Dinstlgut Loiben Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2002: From Loibenberg vines. A six month fermentation leaving 280 g/l of residual sugar. Stunning nose, very pure and precise, with honeyed, apricot botrytis characteristics. Fabulous texture and acidity, velvety feel, beautifully styled and presented. Quince fruit throughout the palate. This is excellent, and clearly the jewel in the Dinstlgut Loiben portfolio. Approachable now, but sure to keep well for many years. 18.5/20 (May 2005)