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Kurt Angerer

Sample the range of wines made by Kurt Angerer and you see in an instant the variety that is available in Austria. The portfolio include the full gamut of dry styles, from blends of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, to Riesling, and all the reds too; Zweigelt, Merlot, St Laurent and Cabernet Sauvignon. But Angerer's (and Austria's) forte is Grüner Veltliner, with no less than five terroir-based cuvées available.

Kurt's ancestors have been making wine in Kamptal since 1848. Kurt learnt his trade with his father, Franz Angerer, who ran the family winery, but eventually Kurt came to the decision that he should set up on his own, and looked to Australia as a likely destination. With Austria's entry into the European Union in 1995, however, Kurt realised that their was plenty of opportunity right on his doorstep, and so Austria retained one of her best (and best value) winemakers. He set up in Lengenfeld, in Kamptal, and now manages 27 ha of vines, either inherited, purchased or leased. Although these include a wide selection of varieties, as detailed above, it is with the multiple cuvées of Grüner Veltliner that Angerer shows his true mettle; these are transparently terroir driven, the bottlings demonstrating the influence of gravel, granite and loess on the variety, as well as what can be gained (or lost) through the marriage of oak and GV.

The Grüner Veltliner portfolio includes the following wines:

• Kies: From a vineyard of red gravel. Stainless steel fermentation.
• Spies: A vineyard with granite soils. Stainless steel fermentation.
• Eichenstaude: Red gravel soils. Part fermented (10%) in oak.
• Loam: Loess soils. Stainless steel fermentation.
• Unfiltriert: Not related to a specific site. A barrel-fermented cuvée that, Kurt tells me, successfully scores points in the right publications.

In May 2005 I tasted all of the above, together with a selection of other whites and reds made by Kurt. Although the red wines were not at all enthralling, my overall impression of the white wines was one of good quality, classic styles - except for the Unfiltriert bottling - and, having reviewed the prices, good value. This estate would serve as a very good introduction to Austrian wine without breaking the bank. (17/11/05)

Contact details:
Address: Shickenberggasse 4, A-3552 Lengenfeld, Kamptal
Telephone: +43 (0) 676 365 57 87
Fax: +43 (0) 2719 8424
Internet: www.kurt-angerer.at

Kurt Angerer - Tasting Notes

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Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Kies 2004: Kurt regards this as his most basic cuvée. From a vineyard of red gravel. Fresh and herbal nose. Good grippy style on the palate, with a peppery edge, with nicely fresh acidity. Fairly simple, but certainly drinkable. 14.5/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Spies 2004: From a vineyard of granite soil. This is more expressive, broader, with good stone fruit character on the nose. Fresh palate, showing a little more body than the Kies. White pepper notes. Good grip. Nice style here. 15/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Loam 2004: Grown on Loess soils. More obvious fruit on the nose here, pears in particular. Rounded, with firm acidity, mineral elements and a good weight. Very good structure; almost austere. Will develop nicely I'm sure. 16+/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Eichenstaude 2004: Red gravel again. Here 10% has been fermented in French oak. Floral style on the nose, plentiful minerals too. Fine grip and structure on the palate. Good mineral character. Again a touch austere at the moment, but should do well. This has fine potential. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Riesling Donatus 2004: A lovely, floral, expressive nose; a real sense of quality here. Full, rounded palate, impressively forward and open, but still showing fresh acidity and stylish balance. Fruit dominated midpalate. Good. 16/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Unfiltriert 2003: Fermented entirely in oak. Apparently it scores points. Obvious oak on the nose that's for sure. An incongruous combination of fresh peppery white fruits overlaid with excessive oak on the palate. Completely out of synchrony with the preceding wines. Not my style at all. 13/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Knallweiss 2003: A blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. Soft, oak influenced nose. Still quite fresh though. An easy-drinking palate, quite plump, nicely balanced. Decent style here. 15/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Zweigelt Barrique 2003: Twelve months in three year old barrels. A vibrant hue. Spicy, peppery nose, with a little game at the periphery of some good black cherry fruit. Soft, rounded palate, with a little extract and a soft, ripe tannic structure, showing well on the finish. Decent style. 15/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer St Laurent 2003: Just under two years in barrel. Plump fruit dominates the nose here, with a spicy background. Sweet, slightly confected, canned strawberry palate. Soft structure. Bubblegum character. Not a success in my opinion. 13.5/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Merlot 2003: Just under two years in barrel. Slightly leafy and herbaceous. Beetroot notes. A little creamy on the palate, with a pleasingly ripe tannic structure. Plenty of spice and grip, and good acidity. This is pretty good. 15.5/20 (May 2005)

Kurt Angerer Zweigelt Granit 2002: Just under two years in barrel. Rather shy on the nose, showing a little soft red fruits. Firm, mineral influenced palate, however, a little austere in fact. Slightly leafy dark red-black fruits. Minerality. A little grip. This is good. 15.5/20 (May 2005)