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Rolly Gassmann
The firm of Rolly Gassmann, formed by the marriage of Marie-Thérèse Rolly with Louis Gassmann, is based in Rorschwihr, and in recent years has gained a reputation for consistently turning out fine, balanced wines year after year. The most frequent criticism of the produce of this domain is the residual sugar which gives the wines a rich, sweet touch, although I have always found this perfectly acceptable.
Rolly Gassmann own no Grand Cru sites, although they do harvest from the Oberer Weingarten, one of the lieux-dits of Alsace. The lieux-dits are named sites, although they carry no specific appellation, unlike the fifty Grands Crus. The Oberer Weingarten is an eight hectare, marly-limestone vineyard in Rorschwihr, of which Rolly Gassmann own just under one quarter, this being planted solely with Gewurztraminer. This particular varietal features prominently in the firms array of wines, although they also harvest similar quantities of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and even Sylvaner. There are also smaller quantities of Pinot Noir and Muscat. The vineyards are situated in Rorschwihr and Bergheim. (13/8/01)
Contact details:
Address: 1-2 rue de l'Eglise, Rorschwihr, 68590 St-Hippolyte
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 89 73 63 28
Rolly Gassmann - Tasting Notes
Rolly-Gassmann Terroirs des Châteaux Forts 2004: An attractive golden hue.
The nose has some appealing tropical fruit salad behind a perfumed, rose petal
and lychee character which suggests a predominance of Gewurztraminer. Little
notes of tangerine and orange peel too. Fresh palate,
lovely body, with plenty of perfume through the midpalate. Rather fat, off dry, noticeably plump, sweet,
soft and rather unfocused; it has some good notes of white pepper and a little
tingly spritz, but these can't compensate for the lack of acidity and balance.
In truth, a bit soupy. Mixed-up finish. Lacks star quality. Have I said enough? 13/20
(October 2006)
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Rolly Gassmann Terroirs des Châteaux Forts 1999:
A pale, lemon yellow wine, but what a beautiful clarity of aroma on the
nose! It is quite powerful and expressive, full of juicy tropical fruit salad,
pineapple and just a touch of bacon. The palate is similarly vibrant, packed
with tropical fruit, delightfully zippy and slightly chalky acidity, a lovely
balance, with a very fresh and gorgeous light texture. There is just the right
amount of fat and richness to provide some sense of opulence to an otherwise
young and fruit-driven wine, which has a clean finish and surprising length.
16.5/20 (October 2001)
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Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer Oberer Weingarten 1993: A lemon gold
wine, giving no clue to the pleasure that follows. A maturing Gewurz' nose, with
wisps of smoke, bacon and ripe, juicy pineapple. There is a wonderful balance on
entry, a feature that persists through the palate. Despite the rich, classically
oily texture this remains such an elegant wine, thanks to the balance of
flavour, acidity and rich residual sugar. There is a fleshy edge giving
immediate reward, though, together with notes of spice. Superb drinking. 17.5/20
(August 2001)
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Rolly Gassmann Gewurztaminer Selection Grains Nobles 1989: A good colour. Typical perfumed lychees on the nose. Full,
limpid, balanced. A touch oil/creamy. Great lychee and spice flavour,
and a wonderfully thick luscious, marmaladey sweetness. 17.5/20 (September 2003)
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Rolly Gassmann Pinot Gris Reserve
Personelle 1983: Another rich and golden wine, but a different nose here.
This has similar honey notes, with a mature, meaty, smoky bacon note wrapped up
in some fresh, mineral fruit. Indeed, freshness is the watchword here as the
palate shows a wonderful texture and presence carried along by delicately
balanced acidity. Quite flashy in a way. But certainly very, very good. 17.5/20
(October 2006)
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